[Paul B]

That's what I was worried about as I think Nat will struggle?

Doubling up on cams isn't too much of an issue I'll just need to fill a few gaps and then steal my Dads!

How about Toulmne?

Edit: typed on phone (badly)

[T_B]

There wasn't much bouldering developed when I was there and the focus was certainly on Tapian, so I guess that's why I remember November as being the best month

I went to Taipan in the first week of December and it was far too hot even for sport. The locals suggested april or sept were the best times for routes, or winter for bouldering.

You need to get up early and be off the wall for 2pm when the sun hits. I did Serpentine on Christmas Eve 

[Johnny Brown]

Nat will struggle on what? Snake Dyke? No. On Seperate Reality? Maybe not as much as you...

Crack climbing will probably be a different set of skills for both of you. A few days at Millstone over the summer should set you right. There are loads of brilliant routes you could do together in The Valley and Tuolomne, Royal Arches and East buttress of El Cap are the first to spring to mind - both long VS-E1s.

You need to get up early and be off the wall for 2pm when the sun hits. I did Serpentine on Christmas Eve

My Hero! We were off the crag by 1pm. The locals assured me it was not routing season.

[T_B]

Separate Reality is desperate. I got fully shut down on it. Proper upside down jamming for ladies hands/toes.

I tend to think of these venues as mainly multi-pitch, but Tuolumne has some good single pitch stuff. An awesome 5.11a called Black Angel, The amazing 11c crack Blues Riff, then good vertical sport knob pulling on the back of Pywiak Dome - Electric Africa 12c and Clash of the Titans 13a.

Some nice bouldering up there too.

Wicked multi pitch and less 'hardcore' than the valley in that there are holds  all grades, with some cool 10s e.g. Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome.

[Paul B]

Nat will struggle on what? Snake Dyke? No. On Seperate Reality? Maybe not as much as you...

 

Crack climbing will probably be a different set of skills for both of you.

Amen, Mello was interesting at times.

The locals assured me it was not routing season.

Haven't you got a bald housemate to argue with? Something about an eliminate arete?

I better start trying to understand the grades over there as currently these numbers mean next to nothing.

[duncan]

Bishop/Yosemite/Tuolumne/other bits of the Sierra have world-class everything except sport.  There is some good sport but it's not Ceuse.  With the range of altitudes between them you should be able to find somewhere in good condition from September to November. Two weeks would be worthwhile, three much better, giving you more time to acclimatise to the climbing style which can seem a bit unfriendly initially.   Possible down-sides? Snake Dike aside, I think you need a full trad. rack to get the most out of Tuolumne and Yosemite.  Getting a peak-season campsite in the Camp 4 can be a pain and you are not supposed to stay more than one week.  Having said that, I've spent more than 9 months of my life there on various visits and never failed to get a spot.  I think a short stay in Camp 4 is obligatory for historical/cultural reasons but there are plenty of official and unofficial alternatives in other parts of the park or just outside which many people prefer.

Colorado/Utah has world class trad. at Eldorado canyon, Indian Creek and on the desert towers.  The latter can be very trad.  October would be a good time and SW deserts are a great road-trip venue even without the climbing.  There is a fabulous book on desert tower climbing by 'Crusher' Bartlett complete with contribution from El Mocho.  I don't know much about the bouldering or sport in that part of the world.

Peoples opinions on Bishop seem very mixed.

I liked the bouldering alot, but I'm not much of a boulderer.

Separate Reality is desperate. I got fully shut down on it. Proper upside down jamming for ladies hands/toes.

You've just made my week! 

For folk with average hands, SR is like a grit E2 5b such as Ceiling Crack followed by two thin-hand jamming moves where you invert and throw a toe around the lip. Small hands would make the crux easier but the lead-in harder.  It's 11d which equates to F7a+    

[Johnny Brown]

For later season I guess a less trad-centric desert trip could start with Las Vegas - sport at Red Rocks very close, J-Tree a couple of hours, then you could head east into the main desert, Zion, monument valley etc.

[Paul B]

Thanks for that. Rack shouldn't be an issue unless baggage becomes a problem.

What's the best way of getting info and topos? Surely one guide can't cover all the big stuff?

Maybe Vegas is a good idea we could tie up that wedding business while we're at it?

[SA Chris]

Red Rocks is ace.

Take a look at the Handren Guide and you will want to head there tomorrow

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Red_Rocks_A_Climber_s_Guide_Editorial_Review_744.html

http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/index.html

[Paul B]

Take a look at the Handren Guide and you will want to head there tomorrow

Wowza:


SHIT!Isn't that Hunstmans Leap?

[SA Chris]

Except lovely desert sandstone

[Doylo]

Paul B on seperate reality, now theres a show i'd like to see!

[Paul B]

I'll make sure to send you a postcard 

[Johnny Brown]

Its 2011. We want a video!

[Paul B]

Its 2011. We want a video!

OK... but my conditions are as follows, YOU MUST:

a) get a monkey to take stills from it (This must be a real monkey not Doyles 'monkey')
b) make a flick book
c) don't post it on the internet
d) try and sell it as an exclusive free gift to adorn climb/climber magazine

[Doylo]

whats wrong with my monkey?

[SA Chris]

It's had one spanking too many.

[nathan wind]

Just read through this thread, but my head is well fuzzy through lack of sleep.. so apols if I haven't quite picked everything up and this post makes no sense..

The States would be awesome in Fall, good time to go, and like Johnny said, lots of potentially stunning photography.. though with 2/3 weeks I'd pick places you really wanted to be and just stick to those as the country is full of world class bouldering and trad and you could go slightly mad trying to fit it all in..

Loads of potential for roadtrips too, if you were following the weather then I'd suggest, Yosemite, Utah, maybe Vegas and SoCal then Bishop as a good fall ' early winter itinerary..

If I was to go on a bouldering trip in Fall then late Oct / Nov would be my choice as Yosemite should be ok, LCC and Joe's would be cool and Bishop starting to get good, and there's always Black Mountain in SoCal.. Bishop will defo be hot right through to the end of October, at least.. having been there in Oct / Nov, December / Jan and in Spring on various trips I'd say the last two weeks of Feb, first couple in March imo are the best times to be there.. if you are in that area in say September / early October defo check out Way Lake - excellent area developed by local wads such as Jeff Sillcox, Wills etc.. Tahoe should be in good nick too..

Up until about the beginning of November you should still be able to use the Tioga Pass to get from Yosemite to Bishop..

Hope this helps..

[Rabies]

I went to the States on a bouldering (with some sightseeing) trip fall 2009 and the weather was fine to be honest.  Probably a tad warm if I was being cynical.  My trip was like this:

Late September - Flew into SLC and it was 100 degrees fahrenheit (no joke!). Stayed in SLC for a few days mooching around before the temps plummeted and it dumped it down with snow.  Had a good few days at LCC before moving on to Joe's Valley where the temps were pretty good but quite variable.  Then alternated between Joe's and Moab for a bit before heading to Vegas and then Flagstaff, AZ then back to Vegas.  I then went to Bishop early November and spent the rest of the trip.  For the most part weather and conditions in Bishop were pretty good.  I found that if it was warm I would head up to peabody boulders or rock creek.  If it was cold I'd go to the happies and sads.

I also went over to Yosemite early November for a few days as the Tioga Pass was reopened.  Apparently this is fairly unusual but the winter I went was a bit warmer than normal I think.  You may struggle to get Yosemite via the Tioga Pass in a typical November I think but I could be wrong.

Colorado would be a no go I reckon particularly for bouldering at RMNP.  Many people I met at various venues had come from RMNP because the season had basically finished (too snowy, baltic conditions etc).  You could go to Rifle for sport I suppose but if you're only there for a few weeks you're time is probably spent elsewhere.

Red Rocks trad/sport and Bishop or Yosemite and Bishop or Red River Gorge would be my recommendations for that time of the year

[Paul B]

Thanks for all the previous input; a few extra questions:

What would people expect to pay for West coast flights?
Can you rent pads in bishop? (thinking about baggage with bouldering + big rack)
Accomodation options in Yosemite and Bishop?

[SA Chris]

Flying I think it depends where to? have heard of folk getting good deals flying to Reno rather than LA or SF. I think you can get them for about £6-7oo though.

Remember states have changed visa requirements.

You can rent pads at Wilson's Eastside Sports. I think booking is recommended.

http://eastsidesports.com/eastside/node/9

[Paul B]

Flying I think it depends where to? have heard of folk getting good deals flying to Reno rather than LA or SF. I think you can get them for about £6-7oo though.

Nat found some for £550 the other day so we might need to pull our fingers out.

Remember states have changed visa requirements.

Oh FFS.

You can rent pads at Wilson's Eastside Sports. I think booking is recommended.

Thanks.

[SA Chris]

I've not had to use new visas, but I'm sure other folk have, it doesn't sound too bad, similar to australian system. I think you just need to sort it out with the embassy beforehand. Googling will tell you what you need to do.

[slackline]

But they'll probably change it again in a few months and want to take toe prints as well as finger prints by the time you fly in 

[Paul B]

do you need your tips to scan out? I'm worried that a comination of Bishop and Yosemite mightn't leave that as an option!