[Johnny Brown]

"easier" for the short and strong I reckon. I've done plenty of 7c+s but can't touch this, and Justin, who's no punter, basically lives there and hasn't done it. So I don't think its a soft touch at all.

Let's face it, just cos a problem suits one man doesn't make it a soft touch for all. Personally I find Brad Pit soft at 7c : , but watchin y'all struggle suggests it may suit me.

Fuck the grade; feel the quality :wink:

[Steve Crowe]

Malcolm Smith on Dreamtime video available now at http://www.smartboysonline.co.uk/news.htm

[Bubba]

I get the sound from that video, but no picture  :?

Is it just me? Can everyone else see it ok?

[mark]

I get sound and vision. Mr Smith seems moderately pleased when he tops out!

[dave]

the pictue quality is pretty fucking bad for a 5meg video - but its still fucking impressive.

[squeek]

It's just an avi taken with a digital camera, I'm sure it could be compressed  quite a bit if it was converted to a different format.

[Omega]

"easier" for the short and strong I reckon.

...

Fuck the grade; feel the quality :wink:

nice quote

back to mushin' - i tried this puppy on saturday (it was dry ) and i'm running out of ideas.  ru/johnny brown - care to share some beta?  i can get right hand to the edge/pocket immediately above the good left hand hold.  toe is well hooked.  but when i try and go right to the two finger pocket i just fall off!

is the plan to cut loose after you have both hands up and campus right for the good looking hold?  i didn't fancy trying that too much cos it looks like you'll crack your nuts of the tree if the left hand blows!

any words of wisdom would be appreciated (either on this thread or in the 'beta room')

[Johnny Brown]

Well it sounds like you're gettin further than me, but yeah it seems the crux is getting your legs out.
Ru's method centres around having the strength of ten men but only the body weight of a small boy :wink: I think being short might help too - the toe-hooks work a little better.

[Omega]

cheers.  i have a feeling the trick is to swing out, then campus to the two finger, then again to the large scoop.  

 if i ever get that far, hopefully the top moves will reveal themselves!  don't fancy toppoing out tho'   - is it cricket to jump off once you've made it to the break??

[Steve Crowe]

I don't know too much about video yet, so any practical tips would be helpful, however Gaz took the clip on his comact stills camera so I think it has come out okay? Maybe I could have compressed it more/better.

Steve