I did this today and agree that it's absolute quality - nice one for (re?)discovering and cleaning it Tom! With pretty much dry (and not at all scrittly) holds it felt like fairly straightforward 7A. With the old guide in front of me I think the project it mentions is directly up the arete right of the side-pull which would make this the V3 "SD. Climb wall to the L using arete and sloper" except the side-pull isn't a sloper and it's not V3 . If Brimham regulars told you it hadn't been done then I'd guess it was just a mistake in the guide (like the V7 arete left of The Titfield Thunderbolt). Either way it's brilliant and deserves a name - unless you want it to become Tom's Arete!
Bonjoy, is superglue fine on grit? Ice used it on Sandstone - but there was the odd crumbly flake at Cows Mouth on Sat that could do with saving... (Patina worn through etc..)
Quote from: tomtom on October 20, 2014, 08:56:29 amBonjoy, is superglue fine on grit? Ice used it on Sandstone - but there was the odd crumbly flake at Cows Mouth on Sat that could do with saving... (Patina worn through etc..)It's very effective on grit, especially coarse grainy stuff which is very porous so the glue soaks in well and doesn't leave a surface sheen. Used correctly the only downside is some darkening of the rock, depending on the situation this can be next to invisible or pretty obvious. As ever it’s important to use thin glue (old stuff gets syrupy and doesn't soak in well) apply it a bit at a time and dab away any excess quickly with a rag that doesn't leave fibres behind (beer towels are usually fine). Given that in many cases not preventatively gluing will in time lead to scarred and eroded rock I think the visual effect of glue is in most circumstances the lesser evil. Friction loss is minimal and where holds slip due to scrittle you typically get improved friction.
I don't think this is an issue of erosion, it's an issue of traffic and the holds settling down after having been cleaned up and used a bit. I've done it on a few occasions and every time the holds have felt cleaner and a bit easier to use, as is the way with plenty of Brimham problems. Given some extra brushing they may well become eroded however, so go easy with the brush please!
The problem will be exacerbated at Brimham as it is basically The Depot without a roof. Steep, big holds, no subtlety required - perfect for the strong, one-dimensional wall climber.
I won't be gluing holds unless someone who has a tried and tested history of this takes me on as an apprentice (and I'd really hope nobody else will either).I think there's a massive risk of 10s of people perfecting the art in a trial-by-error way which could have a very sorry impact on bouldering in general.Education is key to preserving the rock; knowing how hard to brush, clean boots and allowing it to dry properly should be our main concern. A 'respect the rock' awareness campaign could easily be incorporated into our home screen. This would highlight the importance for newer climbers who are making the plastic to rock transition, and bring it to the forefront of the minds of those of us who climb outside regularly.
Totally agree with what you are saying, just sometimes people don't read the entirety of these threads and I would just hate too see inexperienced people carrying superglue in there bags when out at the crag.Whats your thoughts on stabilising hand holds, surely if its not being used as a foothold erosion can be avoided by not heavily brushing? Regarding AT, pretty bad to be honest, there are large shiny white drip marks stains around 2-3 inches below each hold. Is this worse compared to not doing anything, for example veinna? I am not sure! My rule of thumb, don't climb on sandstone (East coast especially) unless its been dry for two days! Unfortunately, Brimham seems to be peoples 'dodgy weather day' choice as the steeper stuff tends to stay dry!
This is a minefield subject and there will always be strong views on either side, with both good and bad cases for each argument, all of which have their merits.Maybe, if people want to stabalise the rock, good practice would be to test on a discrete bit of rock nearby to check it's not going to ruin any holds.Imo, it's sad to see such great problems ruined forever when discrete preventitive action could be taken....but I wouldn't want every man and his dog trying to do so, or problems unnecessarily being altered. Personally, I wouldnt trust myself to do it, or particularly want the responsibility if it went wrong!
Ice used it on Sandstone
Quote from: tomtom on October 20, 2014, 08:56:29 amIce used it on Sandstone Vanilla?
Quote from: TomP on October 21, 2014, 12:03:18 pmThis is a minefield subject and there will always be strong views on either side, with both good and bad cases for each argument, all of which have their merits.Maybe, if people want to stabalise the rock, good practice would be to test on a discrete bit of rock nearby to check it's not going to ruin any holds.Imo, it's sad to see such great problems ruined forever when discrete preventitive action could be taken....but I wouldn't want every man and his dog trying to do so, or problems unnecessarily being altered. Personally, I wouldnt trust myself to do it, or particularly want the responsibility if it went wrong!This is exactly my fear.Jon, is the darkening and stabilisation an instant effect or does it need to be examined on a return visit? How can you tell if somebody has already attempted to stabilise a hold?If the effects are instant then I'd be far more inclined to try a test patch and then go ahead with a repair. However, as I don't often make frequent return visits to any particular crag, the chances of being able to examine the effect of a test over a period of time are slim.For what its worth, I don't think the holds on Longbow really need stabilising at the moment. I think it is very overgraded at the moment, but this is more because the problem was not gopping wet and was squeaky clean.Indeed, the backlash of the climbing community (or just a section of it) for getting it wrong is unthinkable.
Education is key to preserving the rock; knowing how hard to brush, clean boots and allowing it to dry properly should be our main concern. A 'respect the rock' awareness campaign could easily be incorporated into our home screen. This would highlight the importance for newer climbers who are making the plastic to rock transition, and bring it to the forefront of the minds of those of us who climb outside regularly.
