[TomP]

Went to Brimham the other day to clean a project I remember seeing years ago. I was told it was a project by a few Brimham Brainiacs and never got round to trying it. However, I think it is listed in the ACD guide at about V3/V4 (can't remember as I don't have a copy any more). The description doesn't quite make sense, neither does the grade. Anybody got any ideas? Is this another case of a penciled in problem in that guide or is it a forgotten Yorkshire sandbag?

The problem is found on the back of the "Rachel's Box & The Archer" boulder (Page 58 in the new Yorks guide). Not sure if the vid does it justice but you can get an idea from the pics. It was very damp when I climbed it so not sure on grade but I'd say somewhere around the 7a/+ mark. It is absolutely superb.

[andy_e]

Fucking hell, one shit extension finish in the peak gets more posts than this and this is a genuine quality brimham arete, up there with the best problems at the best venue on British rock! Going there tomorrow to try it. Can't wait to top it out!

[sjw]

Good effort Tom.

The two problems on the back of the Rachel's Box block in the ACD guide are:

* !     Project - A difficult project directly up the impressive undercut arete.
* ss   V3 - Climb wall to L using arete and sloper.

From the pic this sounds more like the second one. The photo does make it look brilliant , is the rock solid enough Tom? The one thing that puts me off Brimham is minging scrittley rock spoiling problems that would otherwise be first class.

[andy_e]

The rock is pretty good, seemed solid enough (and it was damp too, so when dry it'll be more solid)

[Will Hunt]

More importantly is it 7a/+ or V3?

[andy_e]

It's not V3. I think the V3 refers to the wall to the left of this,  using the arete for your right. According to Dave the project in the ACD guide is this.

[Will Hunt]

It looks lovely. One to try next time I'm there.

[andy_e]

Take more than one mat, the landing's on two levels (but it's fine to fall off).

[sjw]

Did this today and I agree that it's really top quality. The holds were a bit damp and I still thought it was really good, so I imagine it'll be even better in springtime. It's astonishing that no one had taken the effort to do this line before, good work Tom!

[Nan]

This looks really good. Is it just called "New Problem?" or are you going to name it? Find naming things somehow makes people want to do them more rather than them just saying '"there's some 7a/7a+ at brimham I want to do" donno why this should be the case but it seems to be that everything needs a name now.

[huwtj]

I did this today and agree that it's absolute quality - nice one for (re?)discovering and cleaning it Tom! With pretty much dry (and not at all scrittly) holds it felt like fairly straightforward 7A.

With the old guide in front of me I think the project it mentions is directly up the arete right of the side-pull which would make this the V3 "SD. Climb wall to the L using arete and sloper" except the side-pull isn't a sloper and it's not V3  . If Brimham regulars told you it hadn't been done then I'd guess it was just a mistake in the guide (like the V7 arete left of The Titfield Thunderbolt). Either way it's brilliant and deserves a name - unless you want it to become Tom's Arete!
 

[TomP]

It's nice to hear this has got a bit of attention and the quality confirmed. Good effort to those who have bothered to seek it out and give it a go.

I didn't name it as I wasn't sure if anyone on here may know something about it. I have asked around and it seems like it has been overlooked for all these years. I will give it a name at some point - nothing springs to mind at the moment.

I did this today and agree that it's absolute quality - nice one for (re?)discovering and cleaning it Tom! With pretty much dry (and not at all scrittly) holds it felt like fairly straightforward 7A.

With the old guide in front of me I think the project it mentions is directly up the arete right of the side-pull which would make this the V3 "SD. Climb wall to the L using arete and sloper" except the side-pull isn't a sloper and it's not V3  . If Brimham regulars told you it hadn't been done then I'd guess it was just a mistake in the guide (like the V7 arete left of The Titfield Thunderbolt). Either way it's brilliant and deserves a name - unless you want it to become Tom's Arete!
 

Thought it would probably settle at 7a. When Andi and I were there it was soaking wet so we were sliding all over the place so I gave a ball park grade really.

[andy_e]

Jurassic Ball Park?

[andy_e]

Finally repeated this yesterday before it got put into the "nemesis" category. Committing last move! Jay managed it in about 4 goes with a lanky guppy on the top with the left whilst keeping the toe-hook on, it's terrifying like that for me but Jay's extra reach meant he could do this with relative ease. I went for the top with my right hand, and then again to the proper over-the-top jug. Scary but excellent! Well worth a try and a classic addition to the circuit. 7a/+ feels about right.

[TomP]

Nice one Andy, Jay and the people who have tried this.

[TomP]

Now called Longbow and has settled at about 7a

[moose]

Kudos to Tom for discovering this - I did it this weekend and it's a great line that climbs really well.  Nice rock where it counts (especially by Brimham standards) and great toe-hooking shennigans.  A bit scary for us lone boulderers though - after hauling myself over the finish I had a slightly trembly fit of being overwhelmed by my own suicidal stupidity!

[Will Hunt]

Did this today and its tip bloody top. Thought it easier than 7A but we did have a load of pads and theres a possibility of the arete holds getting a bit bigger over time!

[andyd]

It's indeed a class problem that I can't believe wasn't ticked decades ago. Bit sad there's a potential erosion problem. I reckon it's 6c/+ ***

[Bonjoy]

You lot still not figured super glue out? Pack of ten tubes from B&M Bargains 

[Will Hunt]

It's in Nidderdale. Every climb has a potential erosion problem.

[Bonjoy]

To me that sounds like a lazy cop out. I could as well same the same thing for the Birchover area. There's plenty of bits of Brimham that are as bullet proof as grit gets e.g. Joker's Wall. As with most places it varies from prob to prob, even from hold to hold. There are loads of variable factors which determine how well holds deal with climbing, but it's usually very predictable which ones will cope well and which ones won't. There are always two reasons for a problem being badly eroded these days, one is the nature of the rock and the other is bad management.

[tomtom]

Bonjoy, is superglue fine on grit? Ice used it on Sandstone - but there was the odd crumbly flake at Cows Mouth on Sat that could do with saving... (Patina worn through etc..)

[andy_e]

I don't think this is an issue of erosion, it's an issue of traffic and the holds settling down after having been cleaned up and used a bit. I've done it on a few occasions and every time the holds have felt cleaner and a bit easier to use, as is the way with plenty of Brimham problems. Given some extra brushing they may well become eroded however, so go easy with the brush please!

[Bonjoy]

Bonjoy, is superglue fine on grit? Ice used it on Sandstone - but there was the odd crumbly flake at Cows Mouth on Sat that could do with saving... (Patina worn through etc..)

It's very effective on grit, especially coarse grainy stuff which is very porous so the glue soaks in well and doesn't leave a surface sheen. Used correctly the only downside is some darkening of the rock, depending on the situation this can be next to invisible or pretty obvious. As ever it’s important to use thin glue (old stuff gets syrupy and doesn't soak in well) apply it a bit at a time and dab away any excess quickly with a rag that doesn't leave fibres behind (beer towels are usually fine). Given that in many cases not preventatively gluing will in time lead to scarred and eroded rock I think the visual effect of glue is in most circumstances the lesser evil. Friction loss is minimal and where holds slip due to scrittle you typically get improved friction.