[TobyD]

Mon 10 run in park in KL. Hot. tired. Something Chinese.
Tues 11 wall tick two semi final comp routes at wall, one OS. Few other routes. Bouldering. Campussing. Ray wing curry.
Wed 12 run 40 min in park in KL. Hot. Tired. Fried Prawns.
Thurs 13 Almost OS  final comp route at wall, allegedy 8a, but not imho. couple of other things. Campussed and few power probs on 40 deg board. Hot. Tired.Sushi. Fri14  work, off to drink and eat on a tropical island for the wekend.

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan. Complete Thalkirchen red & green bouldering circuits by 5th March. Current score: 8/18
200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 16
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M:
T: Bike to work, 29km. First day of snow-free roads since November.
W: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Working on target circuits. 2 problems done; significant progress on 3 others.
T:
F: Bike to work, 30km
    Bouldering, office gym. Working problems. Ticked two long-term projects, yyfy. I hope getting better at climbing plays some part in this, but so does improved weaponry: I have replaced the clapped-out 90s relic 5.10s that were in my office gym bag with half price Scarpa Boosters from Rock & Run. Being able to apply force to small footholds turns out to be really useful.
S: yoga
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Freak unseasonal heatwave + new carat Filo allow climbing outside. Pleasant afternoon with Frau; onsighted an overhanging 6a - only my third - and redpointed a 6b slab second go.
Chickened out of practice falls though 

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b by end of 2011

Spent a lot of this week in pain due to over-enthusiastically upping my training regime in week 1 of 2011 - that'll teach me to take it easy to start with.

M - Nothing, shoulder pain
T - Nothing, shoulder pain
W - Nothing, shoulder pain
T - Got bored of doing nothing due to shoulder pain so went to Depot with Mrs. Tone in the evening and tried to take it easy.
F - Nothing, shoulder pain - went out for very good Thai dinner in Leeds though.
S - Crap weather, no chance of getting out so went to Depot with Mrs. Tone and pottered. Meal out in Ilkley in eve.
S - Met mates at Harrogate wall and did some routes - good shock to system.

Overall, pretty average week, the shoulder seems to have quietened down a bit so trying to nurse it through.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched, train hard, not get injured...
MTG - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - busy / rest
Tue      - good bouldering sess at works. picked off some of remaining red problems. linked yellow circuit on 20° board.
Wed     - Routes at Edge. Felt tired & didn't climb well. 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 2x6c+, 6c, 2x6a
Thurs   - Lunchtime interval sess on 20° board @ Works. Worst session yet. 5k run after work. 5 x 10 pushups
Fri        - rest, felt battered / slightly ill.
Sat       - Intervals @ works. Best session yet. 8 intervals of brown circuit, 7 min rest. Completed full circuit 6x, the two drops were on last crux at the end. (hadn't managed to link full circuit before! :-)
Sun      - rest (feel like i need it after this week!)

[Andy F]

About time I posted, I've not do so for too long now.

Goals - 8b, 7B+

Mon - rest
Tues - 3 hrs volume bouldering at the Hanger
Wed - 40 mins fingerboarding, mixed deadhangs/repeaters/pullups
Thurs - as Wed.
Fri - out for a 30th birthday, felt tired, didn't drink until 10.30, which meant not too much was consumed.
Sat - Family
Sun - 4 hrs volume bouldering at the Hanger.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

Mon > Friday nothing. Feeling whacked out after last weeks Flu.. really energy less
Sat. Play on the Beastmaker. Nothing hard at all - still felt weak
Sun. Logport wall. Couldnt do anything harder than the V4's... but wasnt expecting much to be honest...

Hopefully get back into the training routine this week - energy levels getting better all the time...

[205Chris]

STGs: Recover from trashed Achilles heel. Chip Shop Brawl / Tierdrop / Sole Power. 1-4-7

MTGs: Sport 8a, Powerband

M: Ice heel
T: Fingerboarding. Ice Heel.
W: Ice Heel
T: Fingerboarding. Ice Heel.
F: Cut the back off an old pair of shoes that allowed me to climb in them. Did some easier circuits at the works for volume.

S: Bored of not climbing outside. Head out late afternoon to try David at Mother Cap. It's dry but far too windy. Keep having to down climb and retrieve my pads from halfway across the moor!!!

S: Works for a campus session. Manage to hit 1-4-7 leading with each arm for the first time. Do a few problems on the comp wall. Go home and ice heel.

Focussing on the positives from this week - heel seems to be recovering OK. Pleased to see that the strength work is paying off by hitting 1-4-7. Just need it to stop raining now.........

[cheque]

STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013

M: Nothing
T: Passed driving test. Life is fucking sweet. Indoor routes. Focused on my least favourite hold type- shallow pockets. Did pretty well. Stayed up far too late celebrating driving pass despite work next day.
W:Nothing. Knackered.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing.
S: Works. Last trip to Sheff on the train ever hopefully. Did entire black circuit.
S: At Lawrencefield early enough to see the start of the rain: Works again. Climbing 'wasp', red and pink circuits with varying degrees of success- fingers now suffering after due to rapey 'pebbles' on wasp holds and crazy polish on red footholds. Didn't send gigantic amounts of new probs (I'd been on the wasps before and done roughly 50% of them) but feel like I've worked my technique and, due to the amount of wads present got vital Macleod-recommended experience of climbing with an intimidating audience.

[fried]

Big thanks to the fit club crew, but I'm moving over here for the new year.

STG - 6A in the forest, 6B indoors.
MTG - Climb in the U.K for the first time in nearly 20 years, classic stuff. Summer in Targasonne/ Ariege
LTG - Convince the girl that 4 hours a day commuting is worth it so I can live near Font.

Monday - nowt
Tuesday - Indoor session, good progress on my 6B, 6B+ slabby stuff + a 5C that's nails
Wednesday - Indoor sessions, warm up, elbows/ shoulders ache, try a couple of difficult problems, tendonitis kicks in and I can't even lift my water bottle. Buy some 5.10 aescents
Thursday - Double antagonistic session
Friday - Ditto
Saturday - Ditto + 1 hour gym
Sunday - 30 mins jogging / 2 hours walking. The sun is shining the sky is blue, I should be in Font but the car is in the garage being repaired.

Not working tomorrow, yeah.

Weight - 75.5 kg

[AJM]

Big thanks to the fit club crew, but I'm moving over here for the new year.

What've they got that we haven't?

[shark]

Thanks Toby

Weight 11.5-7 (same as last week)   

M Noon. A few max hangs
T  Eve. 4x4 routes session with Duncan at Edge. Went OK.
W.PM. Various max hangs and pulls
T. Noon. Some max hangs and pulls.
F. PM. Some max hangs, pulls dynos and some DB exercises.
S. Belaying eldest son at Derby wall. 
S. PM. In shed laps of easyish circuit 1x1, 1x2, 3x3, 1x2, 1x1 = 15 laps/300moves

Took it easy this week to get over flu doing just AeroCap and deadhangs which seemed to be the least impactful (is that a word?). Would have gone out today with ThreeNine but decided that forecast wass too crap. Did a good aerocap session in the shed although boys still burn me off on it. Real progress with deadhanging - hanging one-arm on a first joint edge for about 2 secs and doing a one arm on it just pinching underside of architrave with other hand. Tempting to keep training just this but but need to get back with the Programme this week. Session with Tommy tomorrow night should put me back on track.   

[nai]

 

Just need it to stop raining now.........

Dry forecast for all next week

Immediate goal - get some technique back
season goal - 7C, grit E4
2011 goals - 8a, Flakey Wall, Resurrection, Brad Pit

m
T - max hangs, core, pullups
w
T - tried and failed to find dry rock, tried climbing some soap for a while before seeing sense, max hangs back home.
F - Eaglestone (daft choice)- 2 weeks avoiding climbing to allow my skin to recover, 20 minutes climbing and put a finger through.  Fucking idiot.  Did a few easy bits on  the edge.
s - short core and body workout -  evening out, big meal, too much to drink
s - hungover

Felt very clunky when I did manage to climb this week so think the next session needs to be volume of easier stuff.  Hopefully that'll get the happy juices flowing again.

[Boogster]

Mon: Nothing
Tues:  2.5 hours at Matrix. Trying heinous 6c. Came close.
Wed: Nothing
Thurs: 2.5 hours at Matrix. Trying heinous 6c. Came no closer.
Fri: Nothing
Sat: Matrix, with the intention of having fingerboard session. Tried heinous 6c instead and sent! Tried some campussing, quickly realised that I'm too weak to campus properly. Old injury started hurting again. I think I'm going to just climb and hold of intensive training for a bit.   
Sun: Nothing.

Enjoying my climbing atm, although it's mostly been indoors. Have been steadily ticking projects and progressing through the grades. Now time to push on to 7a. Also must try to eat fewer takeaways.

Quick question: at what grade did you guys start campussing? I know that I need to improve my finger strength to push past 7a, but campussing really feels a bit tweaky. Maybe I'll just do some hangs instead.

[fried]

Big thanks to the fit club crew, but I'm moving over here for the new year.

What've they got that we haven't?

Climbers

[i_a_coops]

STG: get some ticks in the Peak this weekend, 7C
MTG: Get route fit again, 8a
LTG: 8A

M - Core
T - 40/70 deg board, core
W - 40/70 deg board, core

Thurs-Sunday - core, bar & doorframe routine(TM)

Distressing lack of sleep over weekend. 

Notes: need to do some climbing. Been working on obliques and lower back as well as abs in core sessions as I think they're weaknesses of mine, will be interested to see if it makes any difference. Pretty much back to pre xmas levels on the bar + doorframe, weight is probably back down as well as I've been mildly hungry a lot (not on purpose mind! Too much going on  )

r.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.

[205Chris]

Just need it to stop raining now.........

Dry forecast for all next week

I'll rephrase that:

Just need it to stop raining now........and to quit my job so I can climb midweek.

[205Chris]

r.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.

Interesting point but it looks like I've got the opposite problem to you as I have it on good authority I'm quite weak for the grades I climb.

Remember kids - "Technique is no substitute for power"

[Barratt]

Crazy ill all week with some sort of man eating virus from hell. Off work. Meant to be flying to Jamaica in the early hours of this morning but too ill to go.

In summary, no training, loss of posh holiday with the wife and might have lost a considerable amount of cash.

At least the shoulder feels ok 

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

Shite weather this week, bugger.

M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Work, wine.
T- West View with Mt At Work.  Felt OK other than splitting my trousers in a comedy manner,
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Watching the rain.
S-  Wall of Burl for a couple of hours, felt very weak and skin was pretty sore.

Monday weigh in of 84.3kg. 

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March

 Left Shoulder is acting up a little so no major intense workouts. Verged to more route climbing than bouldering as its easier on the shoulder.

M Climbing I/D. Tiv. Took it easy. Climbed to 6c. I have hardly any endurance. The 5c's were as hard as the 6c's! Messed around on the boulder wall for a while also.
T Bouldering I/D. Ful. Short session as my shoulder flared up.
W Rest & painkillers 
T Rest
F Rest
S Climbing O/D. Mar. Again easy session to 6c. Shoulder ok.
S Bouldering O/D. Tum. Short Session and wife was around and it was cold and I could feel eyes burning into the back of my head. Done the crux move of a 6C+ .. next time I tell ya.

All in all a pretty decent week when I look at it .. considering.

[duncan]

STG: get over shoulder tweak
MTG: V5/7a/E5

M - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Bouldering, short session V3sV4s. Shoulder stability stuff;
W - Anaerobic, session.
T - Shoulder stability stuff
F - Bouldering, V3sV4s.  Shoulder stability stuff
S -
S - Bouldering, V3sV4s.  Tweaked L shoulder again.

Mostly good, starting to feel a bit less weak on plastic: now managing more than just technical V4s.  Remains to be seen if this actually translates to rock, or even away from local wall.  L shoulder still unreliable.

[Andy F]

r.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.

Interesting point but it looks like I've got the opposite problem to you as I have it on good authority I'm quite weak for the grades I climb.

Not as weak for the grade as others around here (Shark, TimBroughtonshaw, me...)

[chris_j_s]

Nothing to report here. I've been knocked off my feet with flu for the last 10 days or so (so missed posting last week) with the worst point at mid-week when I collasped and my wife found me having some kind of seizure! 

Feeling a lot better today so hopefully back to normal this week.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Reassessed with a little help so these now so goest thus:
 
Routes: STG: F7b+ in a session. MTG: Redpoint F7c/7c+ LTG: Redpoint F8a. 
Boulder: STG: 7A+ in a session MTG: 7B in a session. LTG: 7B+/7C.

M: Beastmaker and core
T: 4x4's with Simon
W: Rest - Clear Cellar
T:  Rest - Clear Cellar
F: Training assessment with Tommy - Routes, bouldering, hard moves etc.
S: Nowt.
S: Finish cellar board - Light session.

Not the best of weeks intensity-wise but really getting ready for the periodised training plan that starts this week... Reassessed the goals, know my weaknesses (man I'm weak!) and have now got 9 months of serious focus starting tonight (sounds like I'm having more kids;-). Watch this space!

:D

[webbo]

Goals recover from bad knee Lose weight.
Mon.Actually dared get on scales 12 st 1.5 lbs.rockcity did all the problems twice 2 x 25
Tue. weights good session best since starting weights 4 weeks ago.
Wed.rockcity pulled something in my side warming up had to stop.
Thu. nothing
Fri. nothing.beer
Sat.rockcity managed to climb side painful but was managable.weights.wine
sun.deadhanging added some weight about 4 lbs. bike 3 hours battered.wine
Knee now feeling much better but side abs now a problem.