Careless Torque repeated (Read 10137 times)

Kim · February 09, 2004, 01:09:55 pm

Apparently Andy Brown repeated Careless Torque on Sunday (from Tom Briggs on cocktalk). Nice one.

squeek · February 09, 2004, 02:50:01 pm

Nice one, it's a lovely looking problem and only 10 grades away! :D

dave · February 09, 2004, 02:56:01 pm

incidentally has any one of the ascents so far been in any better style than the others? for example did ron toprope it? or did they all use some form of roped working?

ian h · February 09, 2004, 07:57:15 pm

dont spose ron or jon had boulder matts

Percy B · February 09, 2004, 08:01:40 pm

The best ascent so far is the original one, I think. Big Ron didn't top rope it, but practised the fall by jumping off NTBTA from increasing heights!
Bear in mind he had no bouldering mats either, one word springs to mind.....Legend!

a dense loner · February 09, 2004, 11:02:45 pm

couldn't agree more

Johnny Brown · February 10, 2004, 06:51:19 pm

I would go so far as to say the style has got steadily worse. Malc only toproped the top move briefly, Andy was on it for a couple of days. Both had a mountain of pads.

There is a rumour Nadin may have done it ground-up around the time Dunne claimed to do it - if so further confirmation of his legendary status

dave · February 10, 2004, 06:53:06 pm

just pray to god the gresham never does it or we'll see DMM and Mountain Hardware banners draped down each side of the arete during the ascent.

cofe · February 11, 2004, 11:47:29 am

you're just jealous of his tan dogg. plus it pays his bills...

when your ghetto ass gets on it there'll be fubu down one side, sean paul the other, and you'll have your wu-wear spandex on.

and you just know it's the truth.

COMMERCIALIZE.

grimer · February 11, 2004, 12:56:13 pm

I'm almost certain Ron did top-rope it you know, and that thing about jumping off NTBTA was spin. Also, one of the Sheffield underground mafia, the 'you've never heard of him but he onsights E7' crowd, who hate all things spin, has a mate who saw Dunne do it. There's a few degrees of seperation there, but he's someone you can believe. Damn.

dave · February 11, 2004, 01:14:09 pm

i recon back in the 80s there were more soft ground under NTBTA than there is now anyway - afterall supposedly gary gibson used to be able to reach the start of the ramp proper from being stood on the floor.

mad props to ron anyway - i bet any toproping was done with a hemp rope, blowline round the waist, body belay, jumpers for goalposts, thre'p'ny bits etc etc.

Johnny Brown · February 11, 2004, 06:24:26 pm

Ron didn't rope it, but he did 'check out' the moves on abseil. Thats the word from the man himself's mouth. And from the way he said it, that meant try the move rather than look at it.

I have a mate who used to be Dunne's belay boy. He said he was there on the day, John was top-roping it but getting nowhere. Jase then left as it was getting dark, and surprise, surprise, Dunne pulled it out of the bag in the dark. A Fine effort. :wink:

Jim · February 11, 2004, 11:16:33 pm

respect

dave · February 12, 2004, 09:39:50 am

all thats left now is for that strong lass at stanage to do it for the first female ascent.

dave · February 12, 2004, 09:53:21 am

some pics of andy B trying it on here.

Adam Lincoln · February 12, 2004, 09:56:21 am

Quote from: "dave"

some pics of andy B trying it on here.

I'll host the video for him if he sends it over to me. Just waiting for a reply

Kim · February 12, 2004, 04:00:15 pm

cheers Adam! :wink:

why isn't that coming up as a link?? do I need summat else apart from the [url] tags?

Bubba · February 12, 2004, 06:10:20 pm

Quote from: "Kim"

why isn't that coming up as a link?? do I need summat else apart from the [url] tags?

No, it should work fine - might be a foible with the new forum software...

Bubba · February 12, 2004, 06:12:34 pm

Weird how that vid makes it look shorter than it is.....

unclesomebody · February 12, 2004, 06:25:27 pm

and why does the girl say "c'mon andy, enjoy it"... i've never heard anyone say that before in relation to a boulder problem. It's odd, but now that i think about it's probably quite a good thing to say!

and whoever filmed it needs to get with the widescreen times! it's so much better.

Kim · February 12, 2004, 06:37:01 pm

Quote from: "Bubba"

Weird how that vid makes it look shorter than it is.....

When the guy emailed me the vid it was sideways - i.e. as if it had been filmed with the camera on its side! so I had to twist it 90 degrees and resave, which messed up the ratios somewhat. Could have probably sorted it better if I'd been able to fix it in premiere, but it don't do wmv files...

dave · February 12, 2004, 09:53:00 pm

Quote from: "Bubba"

Weird how that vid makes it look shorter than it is.....

bear in mind andy brown is about 9foot tall. the holds he starts with his hands on and feet on the floor i have to jump to, and i'm 6'1.

grimer · February 13, 2004, 10:37:37 am

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

I have a mate who used to be Dunne's belay boy. He said he was there on the day, John was top-roping it but getting nowhere. Jase then left as it was getting dark, and surprise, surprise, Dunne pulled it out of the bag in the dark. A Fine effort. :wink:

wouldn't it be amazing if JD just realised that there was money in controversy, so always waited for people to leave the wet crag late in the evening and then just waltzed up all these hard routes?

a dense loner · February 13, 2004, 10:42:53 am

amazin :shock:

Johnny Brown · February 13, 2004, 04:04:45 pm

Grimer wrote:

Quote

waited for people to leave the wet crag late in the evening and then just waltzed up all these hard routes

sound like some one else I can think of. :wink: