[tomtom]

I'll kick things off... the only way is up after this post!

Monday > Sunday. Vomiting Flu. Only left the house briefly for first time on Sat. No training apart from coughing and daytime TV

Still I seem to have lost most of the weight I put on over Xmas!  Onwards and upwards...

[Luthor]

STG - Stay psyched, train hard, not get injured...
MTG - 8A Sport route in 2011.


Mon     - busy
Tue     - busy
Wed     - Good routes session at the Edge.
Thurs   - Lunchtime interval sess on 20° board @ Works. 5k run after work
Fri     - rest, felt battered
Sat     - Routes at the Edge
Sun     - rest

[apharri]

- Final week of prioritizing stamina sessions at the wall.. finally. Sets as follows:

1.7c, 6c+ x4
2.8a, 6c+ x2, 6b+ x2
3. 7c, 6c+ x 2, 6b x3, 6a

Been doing something similar, two or three times a week for past 8 weeks.

-Made a new anaerobic capacity problem at the works. 12 hand movements done four times (90 seconds rest) Complete three sets.

-One strength (boudering) and one strength (campusing) session.

-Finally, started putting together a power endurance circuit ready for the next eight weeks.

[chris05]

STG: 7A

M: power lifting (well actually helping someone move house but it felt like I'd been in the gym the next day!)
T: nothing
W: 19m very hilly road run, not sure about the amount of ascent but map my run shows the steepest hill as 500m of ascent
T: travel back to notts (takes ages due to delays)
F: first day back back at work so booze required to recover from the shock
S: recovery
S: 5m run & core (500)

Time to get back into climbing, often feel a bit demotivated after a break probably due to knowing I'll be even worse than usual! Good to get a longer run in again. Running is much more enjoyable in the Highlands than around Nottingham!

[cheque]

STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013

M: Indoor bouldering. Open-handing every hold. Fingers felt great afterwards!
T: Nothing
W:Indoor bouldering: climbed loads of new problems. Got shown exercises on the rings, too. More open-handing.
T: Nothing
F: Nothing
S:Indoor. Lots of steep bouldering, then first routes this year. Didn't feel too pumped.
S: Gardom's. Trad as my mate wanted to try his new cam out! Only felt out of trad practice when removing gear.

[Muenchener]

Monday > Sunday. Vomiting Flu.

My commiserations. I only had two days actual vomiting, followed by another three tottering about the house feeling fragile.

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan. Complete red & green boldering circuits at wall (Thalkirchen) by 5th March. Current score: 6/18
200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 16
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Chilling out with famiy in England, then into the Stength Phase of my winter periodisation plan,

M:Yoga
T: Natural History Museum with Kind
W:Resting
T: Travelling back to Muenchen from UK family visit
F: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Start of Strength Phase. 20 easy problems to warm up, then working problems on target circuits. Got 3, bringing total to 6/18
S: Wall, Gilching. Wasn't recovered from bouldering, but my mate needed a belayer. Did a few routes for mileage, and started a much-needed campaign of practice falls.
S: Wall, Gilching. With family so not that much done, but a few decent routes. Am not feeling any pump on easy overhanging routes where I would have been before, so December's endurance sessions seem to have had some effect. A few more practice falls; Frau is much lighter, so need to get used to *really* soft catches.

[i_a_coops]

I am back.
It is TIME!

S.T.G. 7C, get back down to 55kg, train like a bastard
M.T.G. 8a route in next two months, 7b+ onsight
L.T.G. 8A, tick as much Unfinished Business as possible this year.

M-W   Core + encores/levers on doorframe
T    40 deg Board. Did all of Jacob's problems, core + doorframe routine(TM) seems to have sorted me out a bit since I couldn't do any of them a couple of weeks ago
F    Core
S    40 deg Board (possibly slightly steeper now since I pulled so goddamn hard)
S    40 and 70 deg Board, power endurance not as bad as I'd feared. Core.

This is where it begins, friends. There are NO secrets to becoming strong, and the hard work has begun.

(And I don't drink beer...)

[Barratt]

Monday. Rest
Tuesday. Works session, hard session.
Wednesday. Routes at the edge.
Thursday. Rest.
Friday. Matrix, felt totally battered.
Sat. Theraband, 2x40 press ups, 5x5 pull ups on bar. family get together/piss up.
Sunday. Feel horrible. Eat lots.

Hard week ahead before all inclusive food and booze in the sun.

[205Chris]

STGs: Recover from trashed Achilles heel. Chip Shop Brawl / Tierdrop / Sole Power. 1-4-7

MTGs: Sport 8a, Powerband

M: Nada
T: Short fingerboard session
W: Nada
T: Campus session followed by circuit problems at the works. Left heel really sore.
F: More fingerboarding
S: Nada
S: Fingerboard session - Assisted one armers and deadhangs.

Not the greatest start to the new year. Picked up a niggle with my left ankle before Christmas which has steadily got to the point where I can't ignore it any more. Sounds like it could be tendonisis of my Achilles. Not good. Looks like plenty of rest for my heel so no wearing climbing shoes for the time being.

Important thing now is not to get demoralised, keep the faith, hit the fingerboard with a vengeance and come back stronger when my achilles is better.

[tomtom]

Monday > Sunday. Vomiting Flu.

My commiserations. I only had two days actual vomiting, followed by another three tottering about the house feeling fragile.

Thank you - mine was only 2 days vomiting too - then about 5 tottering and coughing... still at least it wasnt vomiting, shitting flu.. that can make toilet priorities hard 

[lagerstarfish]

[sheepishly returns to training]

height: 6' (same as 1988)

weight: 14st 9lb

matière grasse: 28%

target: Font 7c

M - ache from Sunday's efforts showing off at RHS. Long walk with child on back.
T - nasty finger pain where previously there was none
W - show off at gym - light weight version of Cupboard's shoulder workout
Th - wake up with finger pain and frozen shoulder - later get arse kicked in Dolly's shed - become inspired by slopey dish hold
F - wake up with great fingers and shoulder YYFY
S - swimming with child on chest/back - shoulder frozen again NNFN - short night session freezing nads off at Stanage App North (there's an app for everything)
Su - early morning walk and Baltic hold pulling on Higgar E and Burb W where snow/ice allows - show off at gym alternating dumbell complex with sprints

[aly]

Missed last week but not been up to much apart from a bit of skiing/ski touring most days and the odd lightning fingerboard session.

STG: go climbing again
LLTG 8a and 7C

been out in Cham this week so no climbing as such but been out every day (and eating lots of chocolate).

Mon: Frendo-Ravanel on the Caree, nice nick but getting a bit thin on the top crux.  Got a proper battering from spindrift which made for grim climbing conditions at the top, and a good peppering from parties above on the descent.  Bit unfit on the snowfields.
Tues: days downhill skiing
Weds: took some friends down Vallee Blanche, got two runs of it in, which included a thigh-burning descent in a bit under 40 mins.  Not much (any) uphill work though it felt like a big day out.
Thurs: rather wet days downhill again
Fri: another days downhill skiing but plenty of fresh about to make up for it - more thigh burn.
Sat: back home, very brief pull up session
Sun: work and pull up/fingerboard session.

next week: back to the wall and get running again to lose some of the xmas weight gain.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

Busy week family wise.

M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Work, wine.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Work, wine.
S-  A couple of hours at Wilton One on the only dry piece of rock in Lancashire. 

Feel very weak at the moment.
Monday weigh in of 84.6kg. 

[duncan]

STG: get over shoulder tweak
MTG: E5/V5/7a

M - nothing
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Very short Arch bouldering session.  V2/V3s
T - Shoulder stability stuff
F - Short bouldering session.  More shoulder stability stuff
S - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Winspit.  Glorious sunny day and deserted; where was everyone?  Onsighting easy 6s. First time on real rock in 2 months and moving like a slug. Shoulder felt good, so onwards and upwards.

[Falling Down]

STG (This week): PE training indoors + 2 gym sessions. Bouldering outdoors at weekend (weather permitting)
[urlhttp://benssimpleblog.wordpress.com/2011/01/08/climbing-goals/]2011 Goals[/url]

M - Bouldering at Froggat all day with Erm, Sam and Galpinos (ticked 12 probs to 7A)
T - Nowt (Goal setting in evening)
W - Indoor bouldering at Arch - volume & circuits.
T - Nowt
F - Nowt
S - Long gym & fingerboard session - tired by end. Managed first full set of 7x3 repeaters on 35 deg slopers.
S - Run & endurance fingerboard session - foot on for 30 mins.

Good start to the year apart from putting 3 or 4lbs on in December, but that'll come off. Finger is OK on anything openhanded.  Figured out goals for the year.

[shark]

Thanks TomTom.

Weight 11.5-7   

M AM. Took boys to Foundry. Felt awful. Couldnt pull on let alone do a PE session. Afternoon. Went back to bed.
T  Eve. 4x4 session with Duncan at Edge. Felt grim but climbed OK.
W.
T. Felt shit. Some max deadhangs
F. AM. Felt shit. Made an appointment to see doctor. PM. Felt less shit. Cancelled appointment to see doctor. Rigged up counterweight and did a max deadhanging session on doorframe.
S. PM Foundry with family. Patchy continuite session.
S. Nothing. Taxiing kids around feeling despondent and short tempered

Haven't felt so ill for years. Still feel ill and miserable so will take it easy this week and just do deadhangs and aerocap work. Lost a couple of pounds. Also deadhung a first joint edge one handed for a full second (right hand / full crimp).

Need a short Spanish bolt clipping trip.

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March

Not a good week. Lots of travelling so pretty unsettled.

M Bouldering O/D. Alg. Nice day out. Went with a plan to try climb two 7A's i've worked on. Met some heads and got deviated to other problems. Nice 6B. Tried a 7A and a 7B and got rightly shut down. I've still more work to do to reach goal. If trying counts I done well!
T Bouldering I/D. Shoulder felt dodgey so stopped early.
W Travelling
T Bouldering I/D. Good 2 hour session.
F
S Travelling
S Travelling

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As ever.

M: Nowt
T: Edge 4x4's with Simon.
W: Nowt
T: Ill missus so nowt.
F: Beastmaker session - Repeaters on variety of grips and holds as per Neds guide... Hard!
S: 5 Mile trail run round Whirlow woods AM. 1.5 hour mileage session @ The Works PM.
S: Bouldering @ Woodhouse Scar - Weak, Weak, Weak! Managed a V5 (just!). Nice to be out though.

Week started slow and picked up towards the end...  Good to get out on grit but fed up of being this weak!

This week: Fingerboard, 4x4's, Run, Boulder. Decided it's time to really pull the finger out so am taking Simon's lead and meeting with Tom Randall to sort out a periodised training programme...

:D

[webbo]

Goals
S/t recover from knee injury
L/t get back down to a reasonable weight

Mon. weights.wine
Tue rockcity. did all the problems first go.
Wed.wine.
Thu.weights.
Fri.rockcity.repeated all the problems did a few of them twice.wine
Sat.deadhanging session followed by weights.Wine
Sun.bike 2hrs 45mins.A bit scary at times with ice and floods on the roads.wine

Knee feeling a lot better only get the occasional twinge now.

[James Yeah]

Thought it was about time i joined in.

STG: Lose a bit of weight, get back into regular climbing and training.
LTG: Font 7a and sport 7a.

Mon: 2 hours indoor bouldering, repeated lots of easy problems.  Getting back into it after christmas break.
Tue:  20 mins Beastmaker, deadhangs + pull ups.
Wed: 20 mins Beastmaker, deadhangs.
Thu: 2hours 30 of indoor bouldering.  Repeated some easy problems and worked some hard ones.
Fri:   25 mins beastmaker, deadhangs + pull ups.  Situps and pushups.
Sat:  Burbage South, did some easy stuff.  Very cold, couldn't warm up properly.
Sun: Rest.

[Nibile]

mon - bouldering. absolutely great day. POWER.
tue - rest and osteopathist for my back. 
wed - stretching for my back.
thu - gym. 2,5 hours not pushing too much due to achey shoulder.
fri - stretching for my back.
sat - idem
sun - bouldering. very warm, volume.

good week all in all, mainly for kicking off the new year so well. temps raised 15° in two days then.
keep the fucking faith.

[Boogster]

May as well attempt this...

STG: NTBTA; 6c/6c+
MTG: 7a in Font at Easter (hmm...)
LTG: 7b by end of year (ridiculously ambitious)

Mon: Nada.
Tue:  2 hours bouldering at Matrix. First since Christmas; flashed easy stuff, got wiped out quickly.
Wed: 20 mins dead hangs at home.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri:   2.5 hours bouldering at Matrix. Flashed 6b+, climbed 6c.
Sat:  Plantation. Tried Steep Traverse and Green Trav. Failed, but not by much.
Sun: Rest.

[nai]

season goasl - 7C, grit E4
2011 goals, 8a, Resurrection, Flakey Wall, Brad Pit.

m - Mrs gave me the green light for a long weekend trip Feb/Mar time.
T max hangs, first for 6 weeks so felt hard, weighted pullups, core
w Mate called saying he had a pass for a trip, could I get one...  I love it when a plan comes together
T max hangs, pullups, core
f core (mate called saying did we fancy Font first week of April)
S max hangs, pullups
s Mrs agreed to font holiday - YYFY

Had to stay away from rock this week to give skin time to heal properly, inability to do one-armers still-rising weight indicate that I've been too slack for too long and it's time to crack on again.  Having some trips to look forward to should concentrate the mind nicely.

[iain]

S - Winspit.  Glorious sunny day and deserted; where was everyone?  Onsighting easy 6s. First time on real rock in 2 months and moving like a slug. Shoulder felt good, so onwards and upwards.

At the cuttings, although that wasn't busy either. It was a glorious day though 

Glad to hear the shoulder's improving