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Wrist Injury - How to Rehab (Read 1760 times)

sxrxg

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Wrist Injury - How to Rehab
January 06, 2011, 07:07:55 pm
Long time lurker, first time poster...

Anyway i went out for the first time this year to Kentmere on Monday and while pulling on the two finger left hand pocket on bass line venom felt something tweak in my forearm/wrist. I finished my session immediately, have iced/ rested for the last couple of days and the pain has subsided.

As i have full range of motion and it hasn't hurt all day I have just been down to my fingerboard to see how it is doing and i can quite happily crimp/openhand with all 4 fingers on small edges and use deep 2 finger pockets however on smaller first joint edges/pockets i cannot openhand with 3 fingers or use 2 finger pockets (middle two - front two are fine) as i can feel the pain in my wrist. The pain seems to be just below the wrist joint on the palm side and directly below the ring finger.

Does anyone have any idea what this might be (tendons?!)? Has anyone done anything similar themselves? Any ideas for rehab, i.e. should i do no training or would it be ok to train using grips that don't hurt?

Finally i am in the northwest and will happily pay to get the injury seen to if anyone knows of any good hand specialists/physios.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 07:17:15 pm by sxrxg »

mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: Wrist Injury - How to Rehab
January 06, 2011, 07:45:46 pm
I'm no expert and it's been a while (20 years?) since I did something similar but it sounds like a minor tear to ring finger tendon based on location and pocket vs crimp pain. Like I said I'm no expert, but I did something similar once -but much, much worse -healed fine though took several months. Your injury doesn't sound anything like as bad but I'd treat with ice, rest and caution (ie if it niggles, rest it). Don't know if this would help (I've just bought some for a pulley injury). Good luck.

shark

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#2 Re: Wrist Injury - How to Rehab
January 07, 2011, 02:37:52 pm
Nothing to suggest with regard to rehab or diagnosis but if you are looking for an exercise to strengthen your wrists after to prevent problem recurring the DB complex at 2.40 onwards should help


sxrxg

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#3 Re: Wrist Injury - How to Rehab
January 09, 2011, 05:58:29 am
Cheers for the replies. I'm a little less worried now as I managed to climb yesterday at the opening of the climbing hanger and all was fine provided I avoided any left hand 2/3 finger pockets.

Still I will try some of those wrist exercises as prehab exercises - don't ever want to have that popping feeling ever again!

 

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