The ones in Stennis Ford are good as they aren't v tide affected, nor do they get the sun.
Which ones ?That reminds me though on the other side Arms Race, Them, Mirage and Low Profile (not done) off the ramp are contenders for the list.
Wicked Gravity (E5 6b) is a v pumpy super well protected route at St Govan's. Even has a lower off. Warm up on Tangerine Dream (well protected E4) nearby.
Lean Machine has to be the ultimate; overhanging all the way and cracks for gear all the way. Juggy Spanish 7a.Maybe Darkinbad, asides from the start? vulture-tremadogtales of Yankee power-high torblack grub-beestonkillerkranky-scimitarcockblock-grochandeja vu-kilnseywee doris-stoney(actually most things at stoney, they all have tricky moves between good breaks)snakebite wall-holyhead
There's no getting around that you have to do the start of Darkinbad which is scary as fuck even when it isn't greasy.
Its a typical british situation i.e. two routes next to each other with the same grade but very different propositions. Obsession Box gets e6 too but sounds much more gnarly and hard (7cish from what i've heard). Go for Grezelda (easier and better). Knock yourself out is e5 isn't it? Don't know anything about this. Box Zawn is well impressive though.
Seconded Obsession Box behind Caff and it wasn't to bad for E6 on the blunt end (possibly harder than the other 2 though) def not f7c, very safe after the start bit (pulling through the roof) which is a little fiddly to protect.
Quote from: i_a_coops on January 06, 2011, 01:31:32 pm2 suggestions (right next to each other!) at Shorn Cliff:Are these routes genuine classics on good rock? - my experience of the Wye Valley hasnt been great !
2 suggestions (right next to each other!) at Shorn Cliff:
39 Slaps (Scimitar) - well it is a clip up ... sort of.
Quote from: T_B on January 07, 2011, 11:53:12 amWicked Gravity (E5 6b) is a v pumpy super well protected route at St Govan's. Even has a lower off. Warm up on Tangerine Dream (well protected E4) nearby.I thought Wicked Gravity had fallen down? I remember some very hollow sounding holds on it.
You're right, I pulled off a hold near the start before doing it.The recommendation was (more than) slightly ironic. The route is a clip up only in the sense there are/were 7 (?) pegs and you don't place any gear. But you're also right that the pegs are all either sawn off or tied off. I remember thinking it was physically a superb 7b/+
Whovever suggested cockblock in on crack,