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Trad climbs for Sport Climbers (Read 32057 times)

jern

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#75 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
April 06, 2011, 02:53:03 pm
..also at Avon, Think Pink (crux has 2 solid bolts) Rest has good gear.

Nearby - Split Rock. Most routes there fit the bill - Rustic Direct (E3) bomber gear. Red Rag to a Bull (E5). Brazen Hussy (soft E5) Tricky Dicky (soft E5) - a bit run out near the start but not dangerous.

Norton Sharley

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#76 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
July 04, 2011, 12:06:48 pm
See JohnM post earlier in this thread re Shining Path on Dow.  Myself and RobinB were up there this weekend and abbed down this route.  frcc website - http://www.frcc.co.uk/crag_print.asp?crag_id=31 notes that the second peg has been pulled out.  The pegs that are left, particularly the 3rd, are in a very poor state.  I see the route has been led without the pegs but it isn't clear whether this means without the second peg or all of them and whether, or if, it's possible to place reasonable gear as a backup or instead of the pegs.

If you are intending to ground up this route beware and I certainly wouldn't now propose it as a trad route for sports climbers.

Andy F

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#77 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
July 04, 2011, 06:49:18 pm
Some of the stuff in the Lancs quarries must fit the bill.
King of Kings (E6 6c,  F7c/+ on mostly pegs),  Septic Think Tank (E5 6b, F7a/+, 3 pegs and a few friends), Please lock me Away (E5 6b, F7a?, 3 pegs), Karma Mechanic (E5/6 6c F7a+?, Peg and bolt!) all at Anglezarke. Must be loads in Wilton, Constables Overhang jumps out as an obvious one (E5 6b, bomber gear, at least 1 peg F7a/+, F.A. Hank P 1974 :o)

Andy F

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#78 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
December 13, 2011, 04:51:28 pm
Lip of Fools - eatswood - 8a (about font 7c) standard climbing on crimps with babybouncer gear

And here it is as the proposed Font 7c

Ned repeating Lip of Fools (E7 6c) courtesy of Wild Country/Outcrop Films


dave

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#79 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
December 13, 2011, 05:41:41 pm
Fuck me, good effort for soloing that. Kids today etc.

Paul B

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#80 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
December 13, 2011, 06:43:34 pm
Damn right, the topout is awkward too which must have been a bit interesting, sans rope!

Bonjoy

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#81 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
December 14, 2011, 08:50:46 am
Ned wisely opted for finishing leftwards as per Hot Yiminy rather than finish we did. This is deffo the sensible option/logical line for highballers. I suggested he do it that way. Doesn’t make any difference to highball grade or quality. Also the top of the block was wet, which would have been horrendous on the original finish.
Nice pic. Was gutted I missed seeing the ascent (had to faff around sheff changing lighbulbs on car!).

Wood FT

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#82 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
December 14, 2011, 09:39:55 am
Good effot to Ned on a great line. I assume a pad was slung in a near-by tree keeping with local traditions.

Paul B

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#83 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
December 14, 2011, 12:08:51 pm
Was gutted I missed seeing the ascent (had to faff around sheff changing lighbulbs on car!).

well at least its on film goose.

TobyD

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#84 Re: Trad climbs for Sport Climbers
December 14, 2011, 12:37:36 pm
nice... impressive ascent.

To drag the thread back to its origins though....

White Life E5 (and pretty much  Fr 7b!) is a sound choice.


 

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