[T_B]

Wicked Gravity (E5 6b) is a v pumpy super well protected route at St Govan's. Even has a lower off. Warm up on Tangerine Dream (well protected E4) nearby.

[Adam Lincoln]

The ones in Stennis Ford are good as they aren't v tide affected, nor do they get the sun.

Indeed, add these to the list for the fitter stronger sport climber!

From a distance (e7) - 7c
Point Blank (e8) - 8a

[AJM]

Which ones ?

That reminds me though on the other side Arms Race, Them, Mirage and Low Profile (not done) off the ramp are contenders for the list.

That's a good call.

I was thinking of things like Earl of Perth, Suspense (I think I may have protected this entirely with threads), Limbo etc. They obviously aren't as suitable as some of the higher grade contenders being mentioned, but for the sub and lowest E grades you probably can't get all of your requirements ticked perfectly just because continuously overhanging is hard - they've got good holds, good gear, steep climbing for the grade and good quality.

[grimer]

Perfect Day at Gardoms,
Offspring

[The Sausage]

Wicked Gravity (E5 6b) is a v pumpy super well protected route at St Govan's. Even has a lower off. Warm up on Tangerine Dream (well protected E4) nearby.

I thought Wicked Gravity had fallen down? I remember some very hollow sounding holds on it.

Space Face routes are an obvious choice... Just Klingon, Hyperspace, but maybe not that horrible E4 that comes in from further right (Mother Night??)

[SackofSpuds]

Lean Machine has to be the ultimate; overhanging all the way and cracks for gear all the way. Juggy Spanish 7a.
Maybe Darkinbad, asides from the start?
vulture-tremadog
tales of Yankee power-high tor
black grub-beeston
killerkranky-scimitar
cockblock-grochan
deja vu-kilnsey
wee doris-stoney(actually most things at stoney, they all have tricky moves between good breaks)
snakebite wall-holyhead

[shark]

Lean Machine has to be the ultimate; overhanging all the way and cracks for gear all the way. Juggy Spanish 7a.
Maybe Darkinbad, asides from the start?
vulture-tremadog
tales of Yankee power-high tor
black grub-beeston
killerkranky-scimitar
cockblock-grochan
deja vu-kilnsey
wee doris-stoney(actually most things at stoney, they all have tricky moves between good breaks)
snakebite wall-holyhead

There's no getting around that you have to do the start of Darkinbad which is scary as fuck even when it isn't greasy. Wee Doris has an unprotected start too and the start of Deja Vu is pokey. Tales is definitely a bit too spicy too.

[duncan]

There's no getting around that you have to do the start of Darkinbad which is scary as fuck even when it isn't greasy.

Can't you stick-clip that bit?

(You could start up Black Magic)

[Bonjoy]

Inaccessible - Ina's Rock (though the thrutchy E2 first pitch might prove tricky for some sport climbers)
A Step in the Light green - Heptonstall - Super safe and super soft
Stuffed Badger - Nettle Buttress - Really good hybrid route (one bolt, one thread and trad gear), recently replaced bolt
Nettle Wine - Cratcliffe
Go to the Burren, there are loads there.
Lip of Fools - eatswood - 8a (about font 7c) standard climbing on crimps with babybouncer gear

[shark]

Jon - did you forget your own route at Hipley Hill ?

[Bonjoy]

Yep The Great Tribulation fits the bill. Gear beta useful on it though as a couple of the low placements are unobvious. Still needs a second ascent too. Did say it was about sport route 7c when I wrote it up initial, but in hindsight I reckon it might be more like 7c+ and english tech 6c.

[El Mocho]

Its a typical british situation i.e. two routes next to each other with the same grade but very different propositions. Obsession Box gets e6 too but sounds much more gnarly and hard (7cish from what i've heard). Go for Grezelda (easier and better). Knock yourself out is e5 isn't it? Don't know anything about this. Box Zawn is well impressive though.

Did Knock Yourself Out with Vickers and I think he might have made train noises too.

Seconded Obsession Box behind Caff and it wasn't to bad for E6 on the blunt end (possibly harder than the other 2 though) def not f7c, very safe after the start bit (pulling through the roof) which is a little fiddly to protect.

[Doylo]

Seconded Obsession Box behind Caff and it wasn't to bad for E6 on the blunt end (possibly harder than the other 2 though) def not f7c, very safe after the start bit (pulling through the roof) which is a little fiddly to protect.

My sources have let me down there. Balls!

[simes]

2 suggestions (right next to each other!) at Shorn Cliff:

Are these routes genuine classics on good rock?  - my experience of the Wye Valley hasnt been great !

Lundy Calling is superb. And was only easy E3 when I did it in '91.
I've just checked my old Wye Valley guide and I've written "INCREDIBLE" next to the route description.

[Johnny Brown]

Seconded Obsession Box behind Caff and it wasn't to bad for E6 on the blunt end (possibly harder than the other 2 though) def not f7c, very safe after the start bit (pulling through the roof) which is a little fiddly to protect.

Is that the one I took pictures of back in Sept? If so Caff looked like he was having a bit of a harder time than billy-blunt-end did...

[benpritch]

39 Slaps (Scimitar) - well it is a clip up ... sort of.

didn't you pull a peg out or was it a hold off?
\

i seem to remember j saying all the pegs were sawn off to fit in shallow placements? so hefty looking (20 year old )pegs might not be as great as they look?

sorry memory not great.

[andy popp]

You're right, I pulled off a hold near the start before doing it.

The recommendation was (more than) slightly ironic. The route is a clip up only in the sense there are/were 7 (?) pegs and you don't place any gear. But you're also right that the pegs are all either sawn off or tied off. I remember thinking it was physically a superb 7b/+

[T_B]

Wicked Gravity (E5 6b) is a v pumpy super well protected route at St Govan's. Even has a lower off. Warm up on Tangerine Dream (well protected E4) nearby.

I thought Wicked Gravity had fallen down? I remember some very hollow sounding holds on it.

Not sure. I know Public Enemy (further right) fell down in December 2005, just a couple of months after Nic and I did it.

[SA Chris]

According to UKC Wicked Gravity has fallen down.

[Falling Down]

So the last two suggestions for 'Trad Routes for Sport Climbers' have included a route with several half buried sawn off pegs that rip out and another that has fallen down....  I hear the Indian Face is only 7b+ 

[benpritch]

You're right, I pulled off a hold near the start before doing it.

The recommendation was (more than) slightly ironic. The route is a clip up only in the sense there are/were 7 (?) pegs and you don't place any gear. But you're also right that the pegs are all either sawn off or tied off. I remember thinking it was physically a superb 7b/+

i remember now, i  was trying it with you and i couldn't do the start after you pulled off the hold and then you got stung by a bee when you topped out.

[fatboySlimfast]

Whovever suggested cockblock in on crack, essentially a boulder problem it does really have one piece of gear which is really strenuous to place and is a spicy height above some crap rps. All on that shiny grochan rock,urgh.

[TobyD]

resurrecting a fine thread that i only just read....

Whovever suggested cockblock in on crack,

indeed. Darkinbad, despite its amazingness fulfills none of the original post's requirements either.

Pretty Girls Make Graves E6 in the pass: 7b ish with very good gear.

Many of the pen trywn trad routes fit the bill: Mr Olympia E5 particularly comes to mind.

Mammoth Direct? really?  It certainly doesn't look too sport climbery! run fast run free E5 on upper tier is probably suitable though.

[al123]

what about the routes above carreg hylldrem bouldering wall? steep, gear ( looks dubious though), not very high so like a power sport route maybe? and a lower off/ abb off to boot. cant comment on the climbing but it seems to fit the bill apart from the dubious looking gear but its already in place.

[Ged]

Stuff on the Ramp in Avon; Lost Illusions (7b on pegs), Low profile (7a, good pegs and wires), Arms Race (6c, bomber gear).  Bold as love is probably a bit too reliant on tied off blade pegs to fit the bill, but it is a superb 7b+ is route.

Get some In must be the definitive pembroke candidate.

Hunger on the main cliff?  especially the first pitch

Agree with King Wad, and add Killerkranky to that.

Lean Machine, Wall of the worlds, and mother africa are all contenders too