[Johnny Brown]

Re: Nesscliffe, Cones & Current would be the obvious choice, being E4/5 with plenty of gear but tough moves between (nice monos!). This would require you not to be freaked out by the rock mind, though if you're suggesting the average sport climber would be relaxed on The Cow I guess its a non-issue.

[shark]

Re: Nesscliffe, Cones & Current would be the obvious choice, being E4/5 with plenty of gear but tough moves between (nice monos!). This would require you not to be freaked out by the rock mind, though if you're suggesting the average sport climber would be relaxed on The Cow I guess its a non-issue.

Nice one - not heard of that route. Re the Cow again my memory may be playing tricks on me - I just remember it being a juggy romp. 

[Norton Sharley]

Yosemite Wall, Malham

[Adam Lincoln]

Yosemite Wall, Malham

That's more spot climbing for trad climbers 

[andy popp]

Lean Machine at Swanage must be the ultimate.

[The Sausage]

I reckon...
Pembroke: Luke Skywalker, Grezelda... Pembroke is littered with appropriate routes
Grit: London Wall
Peak Lime: Supersonic (high tor)
North Wales: Foil, Pulsar, Demetreus (Idwal), Mau Mau, Electric Blue, Centrefold (Both Rhoscolyn - more straightforward than Warpath), Energy Crisis, The Cruise (both Gogarth Upper tier), Cockblock (run out but safe).

I'd say these are all routes that you need a bit of oomph for, are safe, but you need to get out above your gear.

[mrjonathanr]

Behemoth @WCJ. Take some  friends, fits various especially 1.5. and don't underestimate low wall, technically hardest bit.

[andy popp]

39 Slaps (Scimitar) - well it is a clip up ... sort of.

[kingholmesy]

1. Bomber gear not too spaced
2. Three stars - if you are only going to do a couple of trad routes they've got to be good ones
3. Gently overhanging in a way that is easily manageable if you have sport climbing fitness and safer for falling off
4. Not crack climbs         

This is pretty much my criteria for routes to try and push myself on a bit this year, with the possible exception of point 3 as I tend to favour routes which aren't mega pumpy.  With this in mind could people do me a favour and flag any of their route suggestions which are pump-fests.

In particular I would be interested to hear more of people's thoughts on the style of Resurrection, Flaky Wall and Warpath as they are all high on my to do list.  Ta.

[Fiend]

Res: full of good rests bomber gear and a slab to finish.


P.S. Surely The Rasp is the definitive sort of this route. Obvious gear and jug-hauling....

[JohnM]

Hell's Wall (F7c/+) - Bowderstone Crag
Bleed in Hell (F8a+) - Bowderstone Crag
The Shining Path (F7b/+) - Dow Crag

All climb like sport climbs and are protected by more pegs than the equivalent number of bolts that would be used.

Cockblock (F7b) - Grochan

Power endurance route with bomber gear and a safe fall out. 

[kingholmesy]

Res: full of good rests bomber gear and a slab to finish.

Hmm, I'm running out of excuses not to go and get on this.

[AJM]

Of the many choices at Pembroke, manzoku really stands out to me at that grade - it takes tons of wires, the holds are big and it's pretty steep. Rock idol as mentioned would seem like another good pick.

Not sure if you would class it as steep enough but most of the routes on the suspension bridge buttress at Avon have loads of thread opportunities, steep pumpy climbing and good holds.

[remus]

A lot of stuff on GO wall would fit the bill, Hyena Cage, Dog Eat Dog, The Jackal etc.

[shark]

Not sure if you would class it as steep enough but most of the routes on the suspension bridge buttress at Avon have loads of thread opportunities, steep pumpy climbing and good holds.

Which ones ?

That reminds me though on the other side Arms Race, Them, Mirage and Low Profile (not done) off the ramp are contenders for the list. 

[andy popp]

Not sure if you would class it as steep enough but most of the routes on the suspension bridge buttress at Avon have loads of thread opportunities, steep pumpy climbing and good holds.

Which ones ?

That reminds me though on the other side Arms Race, Them, Mirage and Low Profile (not done) off the ramp are contenders for the list.

Bold as Love - that's another clip-up.

A38 in the Trym Valley is a great contender, even if it is a crack.

[IanP]

39 Slaps (Scimitar) - well it is a clip up ... sort of.

Roc Ness Monster. Killerkranky and King Wad probably fit the bill.

[T_B]

Fast and Furious, Dove Crag. 7a+ with obvious wire placements and a peg/thread protected crux.

Or the harder ones if you're fit.

Depends what grade you're after. There are plenty of 3 star well-protected E6/7s in the Lakes with 7b+ - 7c+ climbing. Best stick to Wales if you want an easy tick 

[Fiend]

Res: full of good rests bomber gear and a slab to finish.

Hmm, I'm running out of excuses not to go and get on this.

Well, one of the good rests needs the ability to jam, the bomber gear does have the odd runout from it, and the slab is about an 85% slab...

I haven't really specialised in these routes as they are usually waaaay too pumpy and mercilessly punish not being able to get the gear in quickly. I prefer my steep sport-style jug hauling to be easy, and loose.

[Doylo]

Grezelda Grezelda in pembroke. Good protection the whole way but big and pumpy.Maybe 7b and flippin mega.

[duncan]

Arms Race 6c+, Them 6c, Mirage 6c+, and Low Profile 7a/+ ... off the ramp are all prime candidates.

Good idea!  Can we have sport routes for trad. climbers next?

Also at Brissle, on main wall, Central Wall 7a and Main Wall Eliminate 7a are both essentially clip-ups with the shared crux bolted.  Think Pink 6b+ is probably on the list but the usual first pitch, Krapp's Last Tape 5+ R/X, emphatically isn't. 

Not so sure about SBB.  The two physically harder routes, GT Special and Nemo Me Impune Lacessit, are both a bit pokey with fiddly gear.

Can I have West Route 7b(?) at Cheddar? Most of the other candidates here seem to have been retro'ed.


Right Wall (ledge-clipping fall from the top crux if you are unlucky) or The Cow (easier if you can thin-hands jam, some 'interesting' rock) are both 'easy' E5s but don't play to sport climber strengths.   

[shark]

Grezelda Grezelda in pembroke. Good protection the whole way but big and pumpy.Maybe 7b and flippin mega.

Good call. Do you know anything about the routes either side ? Obsession Box and Knock Yourself Out ?

[T_B]

Knock yourself out got put up to E6 as it was desperate. Sellers made his train noises on it I believe, so that's never a good sign.

One thing I would say about Box Zawn is I've been trying to get down there for years - you need good tides, no swell and no blazing sun. Tis an issue with a few Pembs routes (Circus Circus being another). If you are just looking for the odd trad hit, there are more reliably 'in' routes to go for. The ones in Stennis Ford are good as they aren't v tide affected, nor do they get the sun.

[Doylo]

Its a typical british situation i.e. two routes next to each other with the same grade but very different propositions. Obsession Box gets e6 too but sounds much more gnarly and hard (7cish from what i've heard). Go for Grezelda (easier and better). Knock yourself out is e5 isn't it? Don't know anything about this. Box Zawn is well impressive though.

[Doylo]

King Wad's an obvious one and Rimsky Korsakov too.