[tomtom]

who belayed the person who we can watch watching the video?

[grimer]

You're always onto a winner with monkey pictures.

[Fiend]

Genius. This discussion is quite probably better than the problem / line / variations.

[cofe]

Had an email from Young Iain. He tried to register and post, and failed, so he's asked me to post up for him, inc the vid:

ok yoots you've finally managed to draw me in to posting on the net.... here's what i have to say...

first and most importantly.... Dense did not fist me with his rubber fist... its true,   we did share a room in the Glasgow Etap but my arse was the same size in the morning as it was when i went to sleep... so unless he used his rubber babby's fist or his lazy lamb and a handkerchief soaked in chloroform i think i'm safe... 

second.....  the whole point of the problem for me and the fellas i tried it with was to climb the arete on its left hand side, we toyed with getting the pinch how adam did (with the left hand) but it brings you round to the right and you then have to eliminate the shothole and the crack...climb it the other way and it doesn't feel at all eliminate and the moves are also  excellent.  As for the morpho thing.. jamie and dan both got to the second crimp out left from the same foothold as me and they are not tall.....

....and remember its bouldering, its for fun... go and climb both versions, they are both valid in their own way.

here's the video to show that i am actually on the left hand side....



Adam, we will have to agree to disagree about which version is the most worthwhile, but lets have no more defamatory comments or i'll have to come round and take your dignity with denses'  rubber fist.........the big rough one..... :-o

peace and love,

iain.

[Jaspersharpe]

Had an email from Young Iain. He tried to register and post, and failed

Of course!

[Fiend]

Word Iain. Thanks for posting that video. Forget all the shite about pride vs. secrecy vs. internet vs. WHO REALLY GIVES A SHIT. It's just nice to see some cool climbing of a new problem -SCIENTIFIC FACT.

Looks like a good problem that way. Sounds like it would be a good problemn both ways.

[Johnny Brown]

The only defamatory comments were about Dense sticking his oar in.

The problem with that vid is you can't see the massive jugs round to the right used for the start (see my photo on p3). When I turned up, having heard 'it was climbed entirely on the left' I was surprised to see them chalked. If you use them, then you are choosing not to use the shothole, no question. Check out Iain's position at 7-8 secs. If that's on the left then so was our version. We just did that with for half a move more - left foot a bit higher. As I've laboured above, you than swing left as per Iain, and do a similar last move. I've not trying to do down what Iain did here, its just clear to me that these are two sequences on the same eliminate. If anyone wants to climb the arete entirely on the left the challenge is still there.

The best problem here is the arete with the shothole. Then you only have to eliminate bridging up the 5c corner. 6c+ - dynamite. Get to it.

[205Chris]

The best problem here is the arete with the shothole. Then you only have to eliminate bridging up the 5c corner. 6c+ - dynamite. Get to it.

A couple of us did this today (with the shothole). JB is not wrong, it's a class problem this way for those who may not possess the necessary skills for the harder variants.

We may not have been using the best sequence but it felt at least 7a to us. Probably worth mentioning as well that you need a decent pad stack for the jump off the jug unless you fancy soloing the rest of an E2.

Definitely a good addition to the Millstone / Owler tour circuit.

[Nan]

Vid of the shothole method, wicked problem this way.  Sorry it took so long to upload it and link it.