[Jaspersharpe]

  mini-break at Centre-parcs,

I thought he said he wanted it to sound fun?

[Johnny Brown]

The fishing is free and the kids are taken care of. What more do you want?

[Jaspersharpe]

An owl sanctuary.

[tomtom]

coming in spring 2011 apparently...

[Will Hunt]

Dragging this back to Archangel au cheval am I wrong in thinking that it was climbed like that by Don on top rope with tyre rubber strapped to his legs making it easier than a conventional layback up the left side. Clearly a point of aid. Tut tut.

[Johnny Brown]

The toprope? I know, its a fucking disgrace.

[Johnny Brown]

Longle Parfait got a couple more repeats today. Much to my dismay they didn't include me, so I think its fair to say I got lucky last time and the grade is around 7c.

[cofe]

Who did it? Anyone do it on the left?

[Johnny Brown]

Ned & BBGuns. I'm not sure the left way is likely to get much attention, its just the same holds but a worse sequence, and morpho.

[a dense loner]

oh this is good, repeated by adam, ned, and bransby. yes i can see how you 1st thought 7a+/b. varian or adams next? maybe 7a

[Johnny Brown]

I thought 7a+ because last time, once I had the idea on the sequence, I did it immediately. Having since seen the great and good struggle to emulate my feat I'll gracefully accept that both my vision and ability did exceed my estimation.

[clm]

tenuous arête work

Wow. Work! Is it just me, or is there something unaspirational about that phrase?  It makes it sound like climbing the arete is er, work when it should be fun. Doesn't it? Maybe it is some modern bouldering terminology I haven't kept up with but it feels a bit odd. Not that I expect the guidebook rewritten to my exact spec or anything.

Right you are.

Yeast Bums Dogs 7b+
The impressive, vertical square-cut arête around and left of Green Death gives a good 6c+ using the vertical shot hole on the right. Better and harder is to eliminate it with a cryptic, tenuous mini-break at Centre-parcs, either direct or via an edge out left.
Iain Farrar

We should do everything by committee. The names would certainly improve.

I was stone cold sober, and I believe Ian's word's were:

'...someone like you or Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's frightening how snazzy your footwork is!'

According to the recording on my phone, Iain's exact words were:

'...someone like you or frightening Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's how snazzy your silky footwork ego is!'

[a dense loner]

to be fair to dense, for once it seems he does have a point?

He might have a point worth hearing if a) I hadn't had a long discussion with Iain about it last night and b) he had the first clue what my sequence involved and c) he had done a single move on it to decide for himself where the holds naturally lead.

Edit: I see Nige has posted and, incredibly, ticks all those boxes too! Lets listen to Dense though.

Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.

And what would you know about that?

thats weird because
a) starting the day after your little chat with iain i sat in a 20ft sq cold box with him for 2 days then drove to glasgow and back down for another job, ie we spent a lot of time in close proximity. i drew the line at anal sex but was ok using a rubber fist on him. he told me that your sequence had nothing to do with his climbing the arete and he originally tried like this however you could easily go to the shot hole so he didn't continue since he wanted to climb it on its left hand side. all people need to do is go to millstone, its quite obvious what to do
b) you told me your sequence and i'm quite confident in the ability of my ears
c) when everyone finished laughing cos i didn't trust my right foot on the first move for a few attempts i got to the second undercut jug with my right and came over with my left. not the crux i grant you but a few moves more than one. i left it since a)i knew i wouldn't do it and had no interest in going back and b) i really have no interest climbing on grit, sacrilige i know but not everyone likes the same things.

on 2 brief asides, what has where the holds naturally lead got to do with anything? its 2011, the description could be "climb the arete on its fucking left" its quite simple if you don't climb it on its left then you haven't climbed it on its left
the other aside i know nothing about don et al, what i do know is that climbing don is not climbing archangel is not climbing au cheval. again its quite simple
i do believe iains other words were does the show pony sit at home waiting for new probs to be done in the peak so he can go and immediately downgrade the ones he can do?

[hairich]

i am off ill today.that made me lol.confident in the ability of my ears,fucking genius.i am still laughing whilst typing.thanks lee

[Johnny Brown]

on 2 brief asides, what has where the holds naturally lead got to do with anything? its 2011, the description could be "climb the arete on its fucking left" its quite simple if you don't climb it on its left then you haven't climbed it on its left

Oh, for fuck's sake Lee, this is getting ridiculous. So you know what Iain did, but you don't know what we did?

IAIN DIDN'T CLIMB IT ENTIRELY ON THE LEFT. OH NO HE DIDN'T.

Both sequences pull on, then go to the big undercut well on the right - a few inches from the shothole in fact. For both sequences this is the furthest right hold on the problem. See Ryan's hand here -



Is this 'entirely' on the left or not? Or is it 'a cheval'? At this point, and this may be a shock - Ryan could be on either sequence. From here BOTH sequences bring the right foot in to frog the arete. For BOTH sequences this enables hands to match on the arete, right hand above left. BOTH sequences then reach out to small crimps on the left wall, place right foot high - on the same hold, then go to top. The difference being mine uses left hand on the pinch Iain uses with his right. Big fucking difference. Clearly Iain's sequence is a shining paragon of logic and purity, whereas mine is a shitty cop-out.

[account_inactive]

Sorry, can someone explain what's going on.

[SA Chris]

Someone did something and then someone did the same thing but differently. Then someone else did it too.

[tomtom]

Someone did something and then someone did the same thing but differently. Then someone else did it too.

And.. someones got something on video of someone on something but someone wont let anyone see what someone videoed of someone on something.

[grimer]

I've not done it. I've never even tried it. In fact, I've got a video of me never even trying it.

[a dense loner]

i want to see the video of you not trying grimer, otherwise i simply won't believe you, unless of course you show someone we all trust and they tell me you're not trying it

as for the other i couldn't really care either way. just pointing a couple of things out that i was told, since iain doesn't look on net. as someone else said it's not that good a problem however you do it

[grimer]

Only two pepole have seen the video. One is dead, the other has gone mad. What more can I say? Therefore I simply refuse to upload it. However, I do have a video of someone watching the video which clearly shows credulity on the part of the observer and I'll show you that.

[tomtom]

Only two pepole have seen the video. One is dead, the other has gone mad. What more can I say? Therefore I simply refuse to upload it. However, I do have a video of someone watching the video which clearly shows credulity on the part of the observer and I'll show you that.

[T_B]

I can't be bothered to read all the posts above, but why doesn't he just reach that nice looking runnel thing with his right hand?

[Johnny Brown]

Because that would make it a damn good 6c+, and its 2011 and that's too easy to bother with.

[Moo]

who belayed the person who we can watch watching the video?