[account_inactive]

please tell me wss is 7c

It's always been 7b+

Until the pebble snapped off and it got harder...

Ok lets have a soft 7c addition to the guide

[Adam Lincoln]

Ok lets have a soft 7c addition to the guide

Isn't that 'The Storm'? Or is that going in at 7b+?

[Johnny Brown]

please tell me wss is 7c

It's always been 7b+

Until the pebble snapped off and it got harder...

Ok lets have a soft 7c addition to the guide

Yes lets! Of course that will mean folk can't tick it in the new guide until they've done it sans pebble...

Isn't that 'The Storm'? Or is that going in at 7b+?

Yep, down to 7b+.

[cofe]

wasn't storm 7b+ in the last one?

[205Chris]

wasn't storm 7b+ in the last one?

Affirmative

[dave k]

Columns 7c - Awesome problem but with the right sequence it is actually surprisingly not that hard. V5 into English 6c+/7a, into v6. Great problem with a good balance between power and technical moves.

[Bonjoy]

English 6c+, is that a grade?

[robertostallioni]

English 6c+, is that a grade?

Its like a V6 into a Font 6b into French E1.

[Jaspersharpe]

Columns 7c - Awesome problem but with the right sequence it is actually surprisingly not that hard. V5 into English 6c+/7a, into v6. Great problem with a good balance between power and technical moves.

So that's route 7c then? Or E6?

[dave k]

The combination makes perfect sense to me! Ha ha.

Basically there are 6 relatively easy moves, into a hard cr single crux move, into a relatively easy 6 moves.

So basically it doesn't deserve 8a/7c+ for length (its not power endurance), or for its difficulty (there are 7b+ problems with UK 7a moves), so 7c. Which is still hard.


Does anyone fancy commenting on the boulder  problem, rather than my strange use of grading systems?

[robertostallioni]

 

[GCW]

Not sure if it's been mentioned before, but anyone else think the Undercut Dyno at the Roaches is hard for 7a?

[dave k]

Not sure if it's been mentioned before, but anyone else think the Undercut Dyno at the Roaches is hard for 7a?

Sure. To me it feels min 7b. I don't think any of my 7b+ ish mates have climbed it. All locals too. Three of them have climbed Tetris! And no they are not ALL of short stature.

Having said that I also find stretch and mantel about 7a+!

Time for some last minute upgrades Ru? Add to it Higginsons now back to 7c since hold breakage, the Fink SS 7b+/7c

But I guess we are British so we only ever downgrade.

[Andy B]

I think that Columns is a country mile harder than Tetris, Higginson's Arm, or Fink SS.

[Somebody's Fool]

I think Columns is fair at E6. Or in new money, 7c+.

If you've stumbled across an easier sequence than all the ones I've seen, then fair enough. But the crux move (IMO pulling up when the lip is matched to get your foot up) is fucking desperate and way harder than anything on Tetris.

EDIT: What Andy said.

[cofe]

But I guess we are British so we only ever downgrade.

plenty of things are getting upgrades too.

[Richie Crouch]

I thought hard 7A was about right for the Roaches Undercut dyno (I don't recall flashing any 7B dynos so maybe 7A+ at a push) but maybe it was a high power flukey day.

[Johnny Brown]

If Froggy Dick is 7b then Undercut Dyno is at least a grade easier, so I'd say middlin to hard 7a.

[Ru]

Tetris is staying at bottom end 7c, and Columns as 7c+, undercut dyno at 7a.

I used to think Tetris was about the same difficulty as Columns (although I've not actually finished Columns off after dropping off before pulling onto the slab), but I've now realised that I was doing Tetris a stupid way. Easy 7c and 7c+ don't seem wrong to me.

I think at this stage we're looking for obvious grading errors rather than endlessly tweaking the grades of the 50 most popular problems. Especially bottom end stuff that might have been a couple of grades out such as that little 5+ wall at Rowtor that's about 6b.

[grimer]

ok, well speaking of that, if your Rowtor 5+ is your old prob 18, then I failed to make any impression at all on problem 16, the crimpy flake at 6a.

[dave k]

I think that Columns is a country mile harder than Tetris, Higginson's Arm, or Fink SS.

Fair do's.

 I agree it is harder than Tetris , but not much to me. I have only climbed one other 7c+, many years ago and so others are definitely better judges of the grade.

 My guess is that taller climbers can use the low foot hold on the right face and struggle to match  and get established after the crux due to longer legs. Those a little shorter (sub 6 foot) can't easily  use the low foothold and so come round the corner with heal and toe hook (vital for me), then its not so hard to get established with a crafty high left knee!  Might explain Ru's earlier view that it was 7b+. Not a big issue. It's a decent problem and is worth a good look. It's nice and easy to work it in sections too.

Have you repeated Higginsons since the key hold breakage (the one under the roof is now about 1/3 of the size? It's still climbable, but a fair bit harder.

[Ru]

Might explain Ru's earlier view that it was 7b+.

I never thought it was 7b+, just not much between it and Tetris.

[danski]

I'm in for an upgrade on Undercut Dyno. I reckon 7B.  Did Froggy Dick and Kanguru city in about twenty minutes and i'm 5'8. Undercut dyno is harder for me!

[dave]

 Undercut dyno is no way 7b. Its easier than buckstone. Maybe 7a+ at an absolute max.

[Duma]

Tetris is staying at bottom end 7c, and Columns as 7c+, undercut dyno at 7a.