[joeisidle]

the undercut - I think the trick was to use left in pocket and make a dynamic cross through. felt like I'd been cheated out of a problem as it was so much easier that way.

Really? It may just be a complete lack of dynamic technique on my part but I've only ever got close to this using the undercuts. Surely it can't be that much easier?

Edit: Oops, just read chris05's post, yeah what he said

[r-man]

the undercut - I think the trick was to use left in pocket and make a dynamic cross through. felt like I'd been cheated out of a problem as it was so much easier that way.

Really? It may just be a complete lack of dynamic technique on my part but I've only ever got close to this using the undercuts. Surely it can't be that much easier?

Edit: Oops, just read chris05's post, yeah what he said

you tried left in pocket, high foot and twist body to go over the top with right?

Wait, maybe it was right in pocket, left hand gaston undercut hold, then pull through with right?

Either way, it was miles easier than using the undercut.

[joeisidle]

Yes to the first one, no to the second, although I've gotta say the idea of gastoning the undercut sounds very unlikely   

[r-man]

yeah ignore that, I've just looked at a pic and that doesn't look right. Also, I checked my records and I definitely did it "without the undercut". was years ago, so I can't remember the exact beta, sorry.

[webbo]

i too have done it with out the undercut and at the time it felt ok.however on another visit i couldn't touch it.

[Nan]

Left in the pod crimping under the undercut then roll over with right. Probably about 6c ish using the undercut felt hard 7a but at least it is climbing it as the name suggests you should, not that that should matter when grading

[kingholmesy]

Just got back from an excellent day at Gardoms and thought I'd say that Bin Laden's Cave, though very good, probably doesn't deserve the 7a+ it gets in the current guide.

[mark s]

Re undercut at wrights: never used an undercut.crimp pocket with left,feet on nubbins.big slap up with right.prob about 6c

[rainbow]

From the point of view of someone who's spent way too much time on Churnet 6's;

-The little groove (problem 10 in the old guide) right of the undercut and sloper problems at Wright's Rock is never 5+, maybe I'm using a completely duff sequence but it felt around 6b (and miles harder than the 6a just right of it)

-Jill the Traverse is way too hard for 6b unless you can lank past the crux, 6b+ or even 6c in my book

I agree with the groove problem, a little to hard for 5+, 6a+ maybe. I 've always found Jill the traverse harder than the right end traverse so 6c gets my vote.

[Yoof]

Jallo! Here are two problems you should deffinately include:
1) "Kissing the pig" at Curbar. It traverses the lip of the overhang opposite Ben's wall and weighs in at an almighty font 5 - It's good 

2) "Ridikulus" goes up to the break of the Boggart traverses left and reverses Boggart left hand. Font 6cish methinks. It's less good than t'uther problem but deserves a mention and it might stop people from treating the Boggart like a route.

Also Hamper's mantel and Broken wing aren't 7a.

Cheers darl.

[fatdoc]

Just got back from an excellent day at Gardoms and thought I'd say that Bin Laden's Cave, though very good, probably doesn't deserve the 7a+ it gets in the current guide.

perfik cons though matey 

[Drew]

perfik cons though matey 

An interesting point, what condition does a given grade relate to? If something is very conditions dependant, is the given grade for a problem, average conditions, or perfect nick? Surely the latter?

[Ru]

It gets graded for the conditions it gets done in. So for an extreme example, Monumental armblaster gets its grade for when it's clean and dry because that's when it gets climbed, not for the 95% of the time it's wet and covered in seaweed when no-one goes near it. A less extreme example is the Ace - it's 8b in good conditions because no-one ever climbs it in bad conditions.

[Jim]

except jerry of course

[cofe]

Ok, last chance kids. We're finishing stuff off now, so get your final opinions/bribes in...

[nik at work]

God I'm going to regret typing this but:

Niks Wall maybe up to 8A+?

[Jaspersharpe]

[cofe]

God I'm going to regret typing this but:

Niks Wall maybe up to 8A+?

One step ahead of you sunshine.

[GCW]

Fuck it, why not call it 8b and be done with it.

[al123]

if its not to late. trackside 6c and strawberries 6c 

[Jim]

please tell me wss is 7c

[account_inactive]

please tell me wss is 7c

It's always been 7b+

[tomtom]

7C- ??

[nik at work]

The sitter gets 7C doesn't it...

[Johnny Brown]

please tell me wss is 7c

It's always been 7b+

Until the pebble snapped off and it got harder...