[Drew]

Anybody else think The Rose and the Self-employed Businessman should be more than 7a+? Maybe I'm just weak or shit, but I can't touch it!

[205Chris]

Anybody else think The Rose and the Self-employed Businessman should be more than 7a+? Maybe I'm just weak or shit, but I can't touch it!

Maybe MC Hammer?

[nai]

which bit are you struggling with?  I reckon the moves through the undercut are easier for the short, the better footholds are in just the right place.

Harder than Full Green for me but the GT section plays to my strengths, easier than Hampers Hang but I have no stamina.

[Drew]

which bit are you struggling with?  I reckon the moves through the undercut are easier for the short, the better footholds are in just the right place.

I thought it might be a midget-morpho issue. I can't do the move off the undercut, and I can't even attempt the moves afger that. I find the traverse of the slopey shelf hard emough!

[yorkshireman]

not read the whole thread.

trackside arete-6c/6c+ surely not 7a-actually feels easier than strawberries to me

[nai]

Probably all obvious beta but the move off the undercut is done facing left with a drop right knee, the next is just a big press and when traversing the shelf don't match the final hold but make the move up off one of the little crimps out right.  Pretty conditiony as well I think.

[Andy B]

which bit are you struggling with?  I reckon the moves through the undercut are easier for the short, the better footholds are in just the right place.

I thought it might be a midget-morpho issue. I can't do the move off the undercut, and I can't even attempt the moves afger that. I find the traverse of the slopey shelf hard emough!

The move off the undercut is OK if you use the right footholds. Are you egyptianing? and the knowledge on traversing the slopey ramp is the slap up left early. Don't traverse all the way to the end of the ramp before going up. The crux is coming through on the diagonal rail after the undercut, which is more balance than anything. Get your left foot right across and hang as low as you can whilst floating across to the good crimp.

Oops, sorry Nai, I've just mostly repeated you there.

[Drew]

Does that apply to those of 6' or over?
What is the right foot Egyptianing on?
Sorry for hijacking your thread Cofe. Trying to swing it slightly back onto course, does anybody else agree? It sounds like not.

[Andy B]

Does that apply to those of 6' or over?

That knowledge definitely works for the tall too. I can't see how it's going to be any easier for the short really. The fact that the undercut is high should make it harder.

What is the right foot Egyptianing on?

The one I'm talking about is quite low. More of a slight back step that a full on eqyptian. It's in the vicinity of the crimps on Jerry's. Just right of the top crimp maybe?

[dave]

What is the right foot Egyptianing on?

The one I'm talking about is quite low. More of a slight back step that a full on eqyptian. It's in the vicinity of the crimps on Jerry's. Just right of the top crimp maybe?

I think RF here is on the pinch on jerrys.

[Andy B]

Do you mean the sidepull dave? I didn't use any pinches on Jerry's. There are a few options for your right foot but most people use a higher hold than that. I use the top of the feature that the sidepull is on (I've just looked at a picture to refresh my memory), some people prefer slightly higher again.

[dave]

Do you mean the sidepull dave?

yeah, probably.

[a dense loner]

rose is no harder than 7a+

[Jim]

can dick williams go back up to 7b+ now please, couldn't do it today, felt hard (although only had 2 hours sleep)

[benj_d]

not read the whole thread.

trackside arete-6c/6c+ surely not 7a-actually feels easier than strawberries to me

I'm sure you reckoned font 5 last time you mentioned it to me 

[tomtom]

At Curabar, whats the score with the little hanging arete on the downhill end of the featured slab just before the Gorilla Warfare bear pit? The SS gets 7a in the old guide, but the SS seemed impossible (i.e we couldnt get close apart from pulling on), Stand is piss, but there was a squatting start (two opposing edges and a high left foot) that made a really nice problem.. felt about 6b-6c ish... 

[dave]

That sitter is about 7a/+, just got a disproportionally hard first move.

[tomtom]

That sitter is about 7a/+, just got a disproportionally hard first move.

OK - is it just a pull on and a long snatch up with the RH? (can't believe I spelt Curbar wrong!)

[Eddies]

Yeh that snatch from sitting isnt too bad, but the full traverse is tricky in a few sections!

[r-man]

I've missed all this thread. Damn. I would even have agreed with some of you.

Badger - 7a/+.
born slappy - 7a+/b
the sitter to the hanging arete at doxy's pool - 7b
moontan - 7b
Hamper's Hang - 7b - this is a stupidly long problem, two grades extra for needing stamina please. I know lots of 7c'ers who have failed.
triptych - not a 7
hurry on sundown sitter - unless you have big feet, using the not-a-chockstone isn't dabby. anyway, I just copied JB.
the undercut at wright's - 6a? - only 7a if you use the undercut instead of just reaching through off the pocket
nigel's problem at secret garden (the one using two poor slopey crimps to gain the flake) - 6b+ if you heel-toe, only 7a+ if you are using a whack sequence

[lagerstarfish]

Hamper's Hang - 7b - this is a stupidly long problem, two grades extra for needing stamina please. I know lots of 7c'ers who have failed.

it's just too long for bouldering grades to be useful

[chris05]

the undercut at wright's - 6a? - only 7a if you use the undercut instead of just reaching through off the pocket

Really? i haven't done it either way but so far the undercut method feels more doable, surely not 6a unless I am missing something? 

[stokesy]

My two pence on a few problems:

Little richard 7a+, harder than early doors
The Sheep 7a, harder than trackside
Tiger 6b, definetly not 6a
Dish Grab and black hole start at calcutta buttress 6b and 7a respectively (upgraded in recent bmc guide for no apparent reason)
Moon Jumper, jill the traverse and the two finger pocket problem, all at gent's rock, all 6b+
Toms original at stoney, 6c/+
Kudos easy way 7b, dunno about the other methods
Millers tale ss 6c
If mrlh is stayin at 7a then the one that starts for the 7b and finishes up the flake should probably be 7a+
Hemline is not 7b whoever said that earlier in the thread 
Agree with chris05 the undercut is just not 6a, unless u use a ladder

[r-man]

that hanging prow near zorev - 7a+, i guess 7b+ was a misprint?
the 7b+ elim on the classic arete problem - 7a+/7b with the heel
undercuts to crimp problem at raven tor - 7b
all sit down - 7b
my apple - 7a+
fuji heavy industries - 7a/+ with egyptian
bin laden's cave - 7a
sidepull wall, roaches - 7a
classic arete problem, b.south - 6c+/7a
Entrance Slab, b.south - 6c
basher's problem rh - 7a
dirty bitch - 6c
attitude inspector - 6c

the undercut - I think the trick was to use left in pocket and make a dynamic cross through. felt like I'd been cheated out of a problem as it was so much easier that way.

[Jim]

can little gem at burbage south get an upgrade, its nails