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issue: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades (Read 135433 times)

Richie Crouch

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Upgrade WSS for sure. 2 brief sessions and no cigar!

Captain Hook is probably 7B but I would usually expect to do (7B) in a couple goes and got shut down  :boohoo:

I reckon most stuff is about right that I've done in the Peak.

Is Brass Monkeys staying at 7C? I'd be well happy if it does  :kiss2:

Reprobate_Rob

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Another vote for CH at 7b.
As much as i'd like my (and the gf's) first grit 7b to actually be 7b+, it isn't.
Same for Zippy's.

I wouldn't bother messing with MRLH, GW, Green Traverse, Early Doors or Trackside to be honest. Arguments and whining will continue regardless of what the guide says.

There does feel more than a '+' between Piss and Shit but neither Piss at 7a+ or Shit at 7c sounds right to me, so i'd say just leave these too.

Whip me, whip me - never 7a+, 6c/+?

Triptych groove at the Roaches - i've always assumed this was a typo in the last guide at 7a+. Was it meant to be 6a+?

205Chris

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After reading today's posts:

Captain Hook - 7b for sure.
WSS - 7b+ (but I can see why some say 7c and wouldn't argue against an upgrade)
Desperot - 7a
Mark's roof left hand (from the shelf) - felt 7a when I did it
Soft on the G - 7b
Sauvito - 7b
Trackside & Sidetrack - Both 7a
LIARD - 6c

Fair enough if people think the Storm is 7b+ but based on that Baseline (the link up from Beneath the Breadline) might be worth 7c+?

Ru

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Fair enough if people think the Storm is 7b+ but based on that Baseline (the link up from Beneath the Breadline) might be worth 7c+?

I know this is a bit of an odd way of grading, but odds on you're not going to try and do Baseline unless you find the storm pretty easy - so most people actually doing Baseline will probably find it 7c - hence the reason it got that grade in the first place. Plus if you put baseline up to 7c+ it throws off all the grades for Bloodline etc.

danski

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In hindsight i'm happy if CH is 7B.  I'm short and probably afraid of having my head caved in by the rock step which adds a bit.  However, just to add fuel to the confusion there's lots of talk about 'it's not as hard as, or it's easier than therefore it can't be that grade' Remember there's a big difference between soft at the grade and hard at the grade (almost a grade actually) which is a big difference! But that doesn't make them different grades.  Don't fall into the trap of downgrading all the easy ones or visa versa (like i did)

Drew

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My opinion matters little here but I'll give it anyway.

Flatworld felt 7B+
Flatworld Left felt easier, but more than 7B. Maybe both at 7B+? Sorry JB
CH felt harder than Zippys. Hard and Easy 7B
Electrical Storm. Hard 7A+, maybe 7B for the short? It's just an (initially) improbably sequence (or so I thought)
I'd be happy to see WSS up to 7C
Satin 6C?
Pressure Drop 7A+?
GW and ED are good at 7A, and 7A+
Dick Williams is 7B+, and Left-Hand Man is only half a grade harder
The Arete at Higgar is harder than 7A+

I've always thought The Storm should be 7C
And Brad Pit 7C+  :whistle:

All problems on Limestone should have at least two full grades added  ;D  ;)

As for MRLH, and Breakfast going down to 6C+... are there allowed to be any soft touch 7A's anymore?

Jim

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I think we need more sandbags around the 6c+ mark, there clearly is a void here

jonjon

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red or dead and free range abattoir seem a little accurately graded at 7a+, perhaps they need to come down to 7a to be consistant with Tor grades. Also anyone confirm Sit start to saline drip - i thought it a toughie at 7a+.

Satin 7a and Pressure Drop 7b

Ru

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Also anyone confirm Sit start to saline drip - i thought it a toughie at 7a+.

Yes, there's a sit start to Saline Drip.

Percy B

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Awesome!


WSS up to 7c? JB has lost the plot. Godoffe reckoned it would be 7a in the forest. (admittedly, a 7a like l'Angle Parfait, but what's a good climbing area without a few sandbags?) Seriously, though... when did this get harder? Fatty Barton pulling the pebble off made naff-all difference anyway. You can only make this 7c with the magnificent sitter :whistle:

Captain Hook is 7b max with the chip on the arete that everybody now uses - might push 7b+ without, but the difficulty comes from avoiding the chip anyway.

I love these threads - you tell yourself that you don't want to read them or post an opinion, but always end up in the mire along with everybody else. I hope everybody has a drink....

Carry on.

butterworthtom

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I am inclined to agree with Drew for Satin at 6C.

jonjon

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Awesome!
Fatty Barton pulling the pebble off made naff-all difference anyway.


Just to clarify it was another Fatty Barton that pulled the pebble off WSS, and WSS is a full grade harder than Famous Grouse, but then what do i know i like the sitter to FG

dave

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Godoffe reckoned it would be 7a in the forest.



P.S. Chris says "Hi' from Ceuse.

andy popp

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Where the fuck was the pebble on WSS?

dave

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about a foot up and left of the crimp.

saltbeef

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 wss should stay at 7b+
flatworld also 7b+
I think powerhumps is CONSIDERABLY harder than these, but i have a woman's hands.
the storm feels hard for 7b+
captain hook should stay 7b (agree with wrist separation jim)

Richie Crouch

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I reckons:
Storm = low 7c
kudos = hard 7b
rattle n hump = hard 7a+
millers tale = 6c
satin = soft 7a
jerrys arete @ cratcliff = 7a+
jerrys trav @ cratcliff = hard 7b
t crack = 7b+

joeisidle

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Personally I think MRLH just creeps in at a very soft 7a. My reasoning being that it feels of a reasonably similar style to Razor Roof, which feels a full grade easier (soft 6c). However, it's worth taking into account that this is a MASSIVELY biased viewpoint as this was my first (and only) peak 7a to date, so I may just be clinging desperately onto the idea that I can climb 7a on grit.  :boohoo:

a dense loner

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godoffe prob does reckon wss is 7a based on the all over grades of his font guide

everybody saying razor roof is piss all of a sudden, interesting. i've got long arms and it is piss but there are people out there with the audacity to have normal length arms

joeisidle

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I've got normal length arms but thought it was fine so long as you can crimp and are willing to cut loose on the last big move (so more ability to dyno rather than crank). Having said that I'd keep it at 6c as well, grades need a bit of wiggle room (and we all need nice and friendly soft touches).

a dense loner

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that was my point, i don't think its a soft touch at all

joeisidle

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Fair enough, arms length aside both problems are very much my type of climbing so horses for courses and all that I guess.

nai

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So Razor Roof up to 6C+, you got that cofe?

Dolly

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I haven't tried WSS since the pebble came off - does it make that much difference ?

To answer my own question - yes it does.
I couldn't do it today so will need to get a new sequence or summat

Johnny Brown

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Quote
wss should stay at 7b+
flatworld also 7b+
I think powerhumps is CONSIDERABLY harder than these, but i have a woman's hands.
the storm feels hard for 7b+
captain hook should stay 7b (agree with wrist separation jim)

Which of these have you actually done Foley?

 

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