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issue: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades (Read 135437 times)

abarro81

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 :agree: 7b for CH


highrepute

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just dropped back into this thread, and saw the possibility of CH going up to 7B+, I did it recently and didnt think that it felt anywhere near what i feel a 7B+ should feel like.

Yes I'll second that, felt like 7b to me.

Problems I've done that have grades I disagree with in guides or have come up in this thread, or I feel need a mention. :shrug:

Electrical Storm 7b
Sauvito   7b
S&M   7a (ss at 7a+?)
Moontan 7b
Tombstone7a+   
Early Doors7a+
Gorilla Warfare   7a
Desperot 7a
Hamper's Direct (Mantle) 6c
Mark's Roof LH 6c+

cofe

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I know it's veered on and off topic a bit, but I would like to thank everyone who has chipped in so far. Really handy, and much appreciated.

Continue...

Jaspersharpe

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Not wanting to reopen the can but have all these worms been sorted out yet?

galpinos

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When people are talking about Mark's Roof LH, are the talking about the line in Peak Bouldering or the line in the BMC guide (starting as per Mark's Roof then traversing left)?

For the PB line, I'd say 6c (as I flashed it, never flashed anything else harder than 6c). For the BMC line I'd say 7a.

For Captain Hook as much as I'd love it to be, it's no harder than Font 7b. It's the only one I've done and I'm not close to many others, least of all close to 7b+!

Steamboat Stello

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My 20 pence-worth, although I'm guessing most people have lost interest by now!

MRLH - 6c+
Green Traverse - I think of this as the standard 7a traverse, don't think we should change this as surely we need some things to base grades on!
Trackside - 6c
Suavito - 7b
AABTKB - 7a+
Europe after Rain - 7a
Breakfast - 6c+
Weedkiller - 7b!
Kudos - 7b (and the rest)
Not sure what grade you've got bigger splash/tail normal method in at but I reckon 7a+ for both.
Early doors 7a+ (yes its 3 grades harder than trackside for me at least)
Piss - 7b - This would be the hardest 7a in the world if it was downgraded (other than la joker obviously)




nai

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I now consider WSS 7c. It was considered hard/ borderline before, since the pebble loss the easiest sequence is no longer viable - therefore 7c.

I also think WSS is 7c.

And I know cofe does too.

Come on, do the right thing.

In regards to MRLH, is it worth the hassle a comparison to other Peak roof problems of similar grades, eg The Nose, LIARD, Razor Roof, erm....?

Ru

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Not wanting to reopen the can but have all these worms been sorted out yet?

Do you want to know or do you just want it to be a horrible surprise? I've rationalised it a bit. Probably won't be popular.


Press 7b+, low rt 7c+, low left (hard) 8a, Bigger Splash Direct 7b, low rt 7c, Tsunami (soft) 8a (either way)

cofe

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When people are talking about Mark's Roof LH, are the talking about the line in Peak Bouldering or the line in the BMC guide (starting as per Mark's Roof then traversing left)?

For the PB line, I'd say 6c (as I flashed it, never flashed anything else harder than 6c). For the BMC line I'd say 7a.

It's the same line in both isn't it? The left side of the roof.

cofe

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I now consider WSS 7c. It was considered hard/ borderline before, since the pebble loss the easiest sequence is no longer viable - therefore 7c.

I also think WSS is 7c.

And I know cofe does too.

Come on, do the right thing.

In regards to MRLH, is it worth the hassle a comparison to other Peak roof problems of similar grades, eg The Nose, LIARD, Razor Roof, erm....?


I do think WSS is 7c. I've only tried it once post-pebble snapping, and it's ballsed up my sequence.

What's LIARD? Am I being dense? There's not much in The Nose and MRLH for me, although I do Nose the reach around (!) way, but have done it the other. I think Nose is 7a. Razor Roof is easier than MRLH by half a grade? Maybe MRLH is 6c+?

6c+ always seems like such a cynical grade. 

nai

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It's the same line in both isn't it? The left side of the roof.

When the pdf preview was realeased it listed what everyones calls MRLH as Roadside Roof and the original problem (starting as for MR and finishing up the flake) as MRLH. 

By the time the guide came out this had been changed back to avoid confusion but it appears not to have worked on everyone.

Ru

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6c+ always seems like such a cynical grade.

I know what you mean. It's almost like it means "this problem is 7a, but we all find it piss, so you get to fail knowing that you won't even get a nice round number at the end".

nai

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LIARD = Life In a Radiocative Dustbin.

Also the narrow RH wall from the keel on the Jason's Roof block, waaaaay easier than that.

There's also Short Seans... and Diamond White LH in the old guide "best of" section but I've not done those to compare.

I've considered the evidence and am gonna vote 6C+ (sorry cofe, I know you don't like it).

Jaspersharpe

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Not wanting to reopen the can but have all these worms been sorted out yet?

Do you want to know or do you just want it to be a horrible surprise? I've rationalised it a bit. Probably won't be popular.


Press 7b+, low rt 7c+, low left (hard) 8a, Bigger Splash Direct 7b, low rt 7c, Tsunami (soft) 8a (either way)

Might not be popular but makes a bit more sense.

a dense loner

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why are people bringing green traverse and gorilla warfare into a grades discussion? they are 7a and thats it
also trackside, 6c are people on crack? cue shit strawberries joke

i agree with everything T_B has said

if people want to start bringing grades like this down stop climbing at walls and getting stronger faster than people 20 years ago. CH 7b+ my sides can't take anymore

cofe

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6c+ always seems like such a cynical grade.

I know what you mean. It's almost like it means "this problem is 7a, but we all find it piss, so you get to fail knowing that you won't even get a nice round number at the end".

Exactly. Horrible grade. I'd scrap it completely.

cofe

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LIARD = Life In a Radiocative Dustbin.


6c at the minute, but more high than hard?

Also the narrow RH wall from the keel on the Jason's Roof block, waaaaay easier than that.


This is 7a+, that's why.

There's also Short Seans... and Diamond White LH in the old guide "best of" section but I've not done those to compare.


Short Sean's with the block is 7a right? Probably a harder move for the average gent, granted.

I've considered the evidence and am gonna vote 6C+ (sorry cofe, I know you don't like it).


You can't vote 6c+ if we abolish it. ;)


galpinos

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Quote from: nai link=topic=16633.msg292335#msg292335
By the time the guide came out this had been changed back to avoid confusion but it appears not to have worked on everyone.


I've not got the guide, only seen the pdf so didn't realise it'd been put back as per Peak Bouldering. In that case 6c/6c+.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2010, 04:22:10 pm by galpinos »

nai

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LIARD = Life In a Radiocative Dustbin.
6c at the minute, but more high than hard?

Agreed. and morpho

Also the narrow RH wall from the keel on the Jason's Roof block, waaaaay easier than that.


This is 7a+, that's why.

7a in the old current guide  ;)

I've considered the evidence and am gonna vote 6C+ (sorry cofe, I know you don't like it).

You can't vote 6c+ if we abolish it. ;)

But then what would The Sheep be?  Other than still nails and shit

Jim

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captain hook is probably 7b, fel hard to me but I only got 3 goes at it at a time as my left wrist seperates on the sloper

north_country_boy

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CH 7b+?!!.......obviously someone has a bigger pot of bribe money than the russian football federation....

This can simply not be upgraded to 7b+, remember it will then be the same grad as WSS, which is definitive 7b+ IMHO (with or without the pebble.)


Jim

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overruled
7c now  ;) (wss)

Ru

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Ch will stay at 7b I think.

Dolly

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I haven't tried WSS since the pebble came off - does it make that much difference ?

Ru

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captain hook is probably 7b, fel hard to me but I only got 3 goes at it at a time as my left wrist seperates on the sloper

My wrist does this on some slopers, seemingly at random (ie always on some slopers but hard to predict which). Very annoying when you latch a hold then just have to step off.

Sorry, off topic.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2010, 04:38:18 pm by Ru »

 

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