There used to be some crozzle on the lip so you couldn't get as many fingers in the good bit.
The hold on the Terrace has got a lot bigger in the last couple of years, so might even be nearer to 7b+ now.Kudos is anti-morpho 8b.Dick Williams 7b, yes.I think Ben's Roof deserves 7c+. For me, it is much harder than PB. One of those that probably feels alright if you weigh 70Kg and have small fingers.For what it's worth, I think Jason's Roof (Burbage) is 7c even if you're my height. I reckon a split grade of 7c-7c+ depending on height and even 8a if you're short.
Jasons is in at 7b+ but if 7c is reasonable it can go up.
Mossatrosity – down to 7b+Golden Path – 7b+ (had it at 7c on 7+8 list but then figured easier LH beta for the start, possibly 7c if started strictly up arete)
Quote from: Bonjoy on December 21, 2010, 08:57:57 amMossatrosity down to 7b+Golden Path 7b+ (had it at 7c on 7+8 list but then figured easier LH beta for the start, possibly 7c if started strictly up arete)Really? If you think Mossatrocity is 7b+ you should get yerself up to Queen's Crag I'd be interested to know what the beta is on GP as judging by the number of capable folk not getting up it the day I was there, I would have thought 7b+ was pretty stout.
Mossatrosity down to 7b+Golden Path 7b+ (had it at 7c on 7+8 list but then figured easier LH beta for the start, possibly 7c if started strictly up arete)
Mossatrosity – down to 7b+
Quote from: Bonjoy on December 21, 2010, 09:15:46 amMossatrosity down to 7b+Not convinced by this
Mossatrosity down to 7b+
Quote from: Bonjoy on December 21, 2010, 09:15:46 amMossatrosity down to 7b+Not convinced by this but then again my face is smushed against the rock hugging the fridge low!
For what it's worth, I think Jason's Roof (Burbage) is 7c even if you're my height. I reckon a split grade of 7c-7c+ depending on height and even 8a if you're short.
It's not morpho in the same way that Brass Monkeys is (done both in the last couple of months). Even if you can reach the hold on JR relatively easily, there is a lot more to do to hold it/match, get your feet round and do the final move.
Erm, trying to apply some SCIENCE to the issue...To accomodate the apparent grade spread due to the morpho/strenght factors of certain problems why not use a voting system (like they have on yorkshiregrit.com or dare I say it on UKC..)? If you have enough data points, then you may get a mean and an idea of the spread? I'm not suggesting that the new guide should publish the mean/median and the SD but it would seem the fairest way of establising the grade??
Or just use V-grades instead?? (ducks)