[shark]

Thanks tomtom for starting the thread - I think!

Weight 11.5-7 (New aim lose about 1lb pw)

M Eve Foundry. AnCap sets on 40 deg board and 50 easy problems in sets of 10
T Eve Edge with Duncan. AnCap 4x4 session leading routes.
W.
W. Felt under weather. Eve Foundry with Ben. Bouldering on Wave then continuite in Furnace.
F. Coughing up green phlegm. PM Went out to Apparent North. Brrrr. Eve Fingerboard session.
S. Sore throat. 7 hour stressful drive to Somerset. Eve Ate out. Gargantuan meal celebrating Mum,s 70th - had a tactical chunder.
S. Feeding sheep and heifers. Fizz and Malbec at lunchtime. Probably more alcohol after posting this.

Feel a lot better this evening. Will attempt to get off the hill tomorrow with the boys for a session at the Blackbrook Leisure Centre in Taunton.

[205Chris]

STGs: Tierdrop, Chip Shop Brawl and Sole Power. 1-4-7 the big rungs at the works.
MTGs: Sport 8a

M: Bouldering on the wave at the Foundry.
T: A few comp problems at the works and then mileage on circuit problems
W: Nada
T: Short board session in garage
F: Nada
S: Bouldering at Burbage North. Blind Date 1, Me 0. Sack it off to Chatsworth to do Desperot. Quality problem, well worth seeking out.
S: Round 2 at Burbage North. Blind Date 0, Me 1. YYFY!! Nearly physically sick afterwards it took so much out of me. Catch up with some friends at Birchen in the afternoon and do a few bits and pieces.

Well pleased with Blind Date, something that's always been a bit of a nemesis for me as I can't lank or slap my way up it. Just need to do Blind Fig now and I need never maul on that sloper again!

Gonna take it easy this week as I've got some time off between Christmas and New Year and I'm hoping to get out as much as possible weather permitting.

[chris05]

Any improvements are going to have to go on hold now over xmas.

M: BM (repeaters and one arm work), 4m run & core (450)
T: xmas do
W: recovering from above
T: weights, core (1000), 4m run, press-ups, pull-ups & BM (repeaters)
F-S: no exercise, lots of boozing

Just hoping to maintain until the new year, will be doing lots of running and hopefully a little winter climbing and bouldering. Probably wont be able to post again until I get back on the 6th Jan.

[cheque]

STG: Pass driving test in January, E1+ on grit this spring, 6C on grit this winter.
MTG: E1+ on big cliffs/ 6c+ sport next summer,
LTG: Good enough for 2012/13 USA trip

M- Sore as fuck. Driving lesson doesn't help my knee.
T- Nothing. Still not recovered from weekend. Uh oh.
W- Ill. Nothing
T- Still ill. Nothing
F- Miraculously a lot better. Still nothing though.
S- Indoor bouldering. They now have rings at the wall.    Close to a 'muscle up'. Not sure how close, though!
S- short, bouldering session at Black Rocks. Fun! Great conditions.

I was delighted to even be able to climb this weekend considering how ill and broken I felt midweek!

[Barratt]

Monday: Works comp wall session. Tick 11 problems, was a bit tired but should have got 2 more really, which for me is good on comp problems, I don't normally entertain the comp wall because of the nasty shoulder. 

Tuesday: 2 mile rin follwed by: x80 Wide press ups, x100 sit ups, x10 pull ups x3, theraband routine x2.

Wednesday: Works with Lads. Pulled back of leg rocking over.

Friday: 120 press ups in sets of 30. Played at some front levers and failed miserably. Couldn't do any sit ups as back of leg still painful.

Sat: works do, massive steak and much wine.

Sunday: matrix, hungover but manage to get up some stuff. Theraband, theraband and a bit more theraband.

Ok week, shame I've pulled the leg but hopefully won't hold me back from training next week. Noticed I've very little stamina and getting pumped far too easily... Time for some circuits at the works.

[Luthor]

STG - Manage to get on grit when a) dry, b) have free time...
MTG - Few more 7b's, move onwards from 7B+ (Already thinking about sports climbing next year..)

Mon - busy

Tues - Bouldered at the Works.

Wed - Bouldered at the Works.

Thurs - Lunchtime workout on circuit board at works. Starting to learn the brown circuit well enough to use for interval training

Fri - nothing

Sat - busy

Sun - busy

Hard to get psyched when cold / icy and not much prospect of getting outside for a bit.. keep it ticking over to after xmas.

[Plattsy]

Do summat 'ard in Sydney before 22 Jan 11

M - Boulder at the SICG with team Pom. Short session as 3rd day on.
T - Short run.
W - Gym. Free personal trainer advice/program on stuff.
T - Rest
F - Gym. Weights and Core.
S - Rest
S - Bouldered at Sandy Bay. Spent a lot time working poor sequences which meant I didn't tick as much as I wanted but certainly worked my fingers. Gym. Weights and Core.

Another good week training wise. Want to increase the weights in the gym a bit. No climbing now until next week as away for xmas/boxing holidays.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

Shit week this week, weather and ill children coincide.

M-  Nothing.
T-  Nothing.
W-  An hour or so at Denham with Nik at Work.
T- Blob sitting, followed buy a few hours in A+E/ OOH arguining with the duty doc about antivirals, ultimately pointless.
F-  Fuck all.
S-  Fuck all.
S-  Fuck all.

Monday weigh in of 86.0kg generally just makes it worse.

I've given up on the Aims for 2010, I suspect they will be rolling over.  Although as they have done just that for 3 years, I may just sack it and have a fresh set of 10.

<sigh>

[duncan]

STG: V5 & 5 pull-ups
MTG: E5 os & 7b rp
LTG: reduce time-out through injury

M - Nothing
T - Arch: bouldering
W- Shoulder stability stuff: side-planks etc. Work-related compulsory socialising
T-  Arch: bouldering - short session
F - Arch: bouldering - v. short session ...more work-related compulsory socialising
S - Shoulder stability stuff
S - 2 hours plodding through the snow with an 11kg load.  Attempted pull-ups, lock-offs; shoulder stability stuff

Fingers feeling a little battered and the usual festive distractions, so an easier week.  Feeling a bit more power than a month ago both on plastic and in basic (pull-up) strength.  Steady as she goes. 

[Falling Down]

Was recovering from a stinker of a cold and had a load of work social events and travel to do.

M - F: See the Fat club thread
S
S 1 hour walk then Awesome Stockport 8 or so routes to 6b+.

Sunday started OK in spite of not tying in for over a month but then the tank emptied quickly and felt really tired. Not surprising after a month of illness and a week of eating and drinking.

This weeks goals. Working 'til Christmas Eve so whatever I can fit in.

[nai]

Effort Chris, nemesis ticking is always pleasing.

M - Wanted to do Nerfetiti, it was wet so did some easier stuff until bottom dried allowing 20 minutes before dark, found it hard.
t
W - After confirming Burbage wetness, from the road I spied that the slopey traverse on the big slab was dry.  My tweaky shoulder didn't like the big start move but a quick walk found the other slopey traverse was dry so did that and all the up eliminates, ideal slopeyness for the conditions, a good save and good fun.
t
F - Nerfetiti dry but I was so cold that I could barely move, didn't get as far as I did Monday.  Should have warmed up at home instead of waiting til I got out only to find most top outs verglassed.

Wasted a week really trying to get on Nerfetiti, also been ill and had two ill kids so have had five nights of poor/disturbed sleep.

[aly]

Winding down for xmas really but had a reasonable week.

Mon:  pull up session and fingerboard. Did half front levers.
Tues: Power-enduro session at stoke, feeling as strong as I ever have on the traverses, long session.
Weds: Pull ups and fingerboard session, feeling pretty beasted from tues.
Thurs: Power enduro session at stoke, definite improvement over last few weeks, even if I still felt tired from thurs.
Fri: Broomgrove session, managed a load of traverses and old problems.  Perfect conditions.
Sat: Quick Broomgrove session again, lots of traversing again.  Cold.
Sun: nothing

Goals:
get on fingerboard over xmas, do lots of repeaters.
Ski lots and don't eat too much.
Fix finger.

[webbo]

Goal recover from knee injury.
Mon.sit around with leg propped up.order a weight bench.
Tue.dead hanging session.weights just dumbells.
Wed.turbo 1 hour.knee felt ok
Thu.dead hanging.weight session on new bench.
Fri.turbo 1 hour.
Sat.deadhanging and weights.walk round shops first walk in a week.
Sun.turbo 1 hour.
quite a good weeks training but undone by too much fat club.

[Nibile]

mon - rest after Creschtianov
tue - rest
wed - wall. 2 hours setting new problems, did a few ones, not bad despite bad mood.
thu - bouldering. tried "Il Signore degli Anelli" two moves 8a+ by Caminati. got close but no cigar. Michele, nice guy as always, said conditions were not good.
fri - rest.
sat - beast. two arms max deadhangs. the routine now offers 45°, slopey pockets f2, mid pockets b2, small monos (index and middle), small rung b3,small rung f3. 1 minute rests in between holds, all x 6 sets. good vibes, PB on the middle monos, 22 sec.
sun - shoveled snow and broke 3 cm thick ice in front of the house. 2,5 hours beasted my back, biceps and forearms. hats off to you if it's your job.

[Muenchener]

STG: Aerobic / mileage base phase of Periodised Winter Plan for Arco at Easter. 30 minutes traversing or continuously on a route, without pumping or resorting to no-hands rests
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Family & work commitments bring about a Light Week. Probably ok, as last week was heavy.

M: Step-up w/rucksack, 20 minutes. Nearly died. Not surprising: have done nothing aerobic for anything except forearms for weeks.
T:
W: yoga
T: Bouldering, office gym. Half hour warm up, 30 minutes ARC: much better than three weeks ago. 15 minutes shoulders & core warm-down
F: yoga
S: Bouldering, Boulderwelt. Nothing here that is easy enough for me to do ARCs, and besides working problems is a scientific way to start easing into my Winter Strength Training Phase more fun. Four new successes on the circa font 6a circuit, albeit three of them slabby/vertical/technical and only one steep. My lock-off strength is lamentable, as is my heelhooking technique; need to improve one or the other.
S: Snowboarding, Alpbach.

[chris_j_s]

Finger still permanently swollen but pain is non-existent now, to the extent that I accidentally taped the wrong finger on Thursday and didn't notice until after my warm up! Still think it's odd that the swelling isn't going down though.

M:
T: Ingleton. Split session between circuits and problems. Making good progress on some project problems, did 3 x 6c+ circuit and 3 x 7a circuit then spent some time working out a new circuit at an appropriate difficulty. Focus being on long shouldery moves on big-ish holds.
W:
T: Ingleton. Two hard project problems sent plus 5 x my 'new' circuit from Tues which clearly isn't quite hard enough... Warmed down with 2 x 6c+ circuit then round the 6b circuit 3 x without stepping off.
F:
S:
S:

[shark]

sent plus 5 x my 'new' circuit from Tues which clearly isn't quite hard enough...

A few suggestions to pimp your circuit:

1.Count to 3 on each hold if you are doing it too fast
2.Features for feet
3.Get to a shake out hold and rest on that between laps
4.Reduce rest time between laps
5. Weight belt

[Duncan Disorderly]

Late again.....

T: Routes @ The Edge with Simon - 4x4's feeling fitter (that'll soon end - see below).

Rest of the week was pretty shit with a bit of stretching and some pullups...

Ate a shedload of crap, drank an ocean of booze... Socializing sukz

Next week: Stem the increasing natural training weightbelt for the New Year... Throw up Christmas dinner

Happy holidays folks.

:D

[slackline]

Bulemia isn't great, just avoid by not over indulging in the first place.