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UKC Simpson statement (Read 84207 times)

Pantontino

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#75 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 19, 2010, 04:13:51 pm
Interesting - thanks. The magazine and guidebook write-ups of the first ascent of Castellan (the moves through the overhang, or the way it was done at that point at any rate) suggested a bit of a breakthrough for Bancroft: press hype perhaps?

the way steve did castellan as i heard at the time was feet first i.e. more of a front lever type move to throw a foot into the pocket on the lip.which is possibly more suprising as if my memory is correct he was even shitter at these than one armers. ;D

Apologies for continuing the slightly off topic stuff, but:

It's a while since I did it but all I remember of the roof pitch on Castellan is a bit of swinging around and then some shoulder barging. You don't need to be able to do one armers for that.

There's always been a strong element of hyperbole in climbing media, and I say that as someone who is probably guilty of over hyping things...on occasion.  :whistle: (I was just being enthusiastic of course!)

That said, it does dismay me that certain individuals in the older generation seem determined to re-write history in their own favour. We are lucky to have people like Webbo who pop up and give an alternative truthful version of events.

Oh, and well said Bonjoy, couldn't agree more.

chummer

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#76 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 20, 2010, 01:07:34 pm
Does this mean that all my new routes are going to continue to be recorded as 'superb and stunning last great problems' Si or are you going to start being all truthful and call them all 'fillers in with some good climbing'?  :P

Doylo

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#77 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 03:39:35 pm
I have been hoping that this Simpson affair would get sorted but it seems he's happy to get erased from climbing history. He's content with his life and has no plans to get involved. A strange standpoint in my view but there you go, he's an odd fish. For my own piece of mind i contacted the guy who Rich told me belayed him on Liquid Ambar and Hubble. He replied this:

Quote
Yes, I can confirm Rich done these routes as I belayed him.
Makes me laugh that people are doubting him. I tried to log on to U.K Climbing website when I read about the story but unfortunatly my schools sever wouldn't let me (I am in Thailand). Maybe people will stop doubting him now! Maybe he upset someone, I know he can be an arrogant little twat sometimes!!!

But i guess its too little too late. Case closed.

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#78 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 03:45:23 pm
 :dance1:

 :beer2:

Grubes

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#79 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 03:47:51 pm
For my own piece of mind i contacted the guy who Rich told me belayed him on Liquid Ambar and Hubble. He replied this:
Quote
Yes, I can confirm Rich done these routes as I belayed him.
Excellent news

surfchimpster

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#80 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 05:30:46 pm
Cant believe ukc have done an article on this... bunch of chimps.

The whole thing would have been easily put to rest like this....

http://www.google.co.uk/search?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&channel=s&hl=en&source=hp&q=monty+pthon+witch+sketch&btnG=Google+Search

burn him...burn him!

I've never seen such a chuffing pathetic witch hunt in all my days .



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#81 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 05:34:33 pm
Don't burn him, build a bridge out of him.  ::)

shark

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#82 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 07:44:14 pm
I have been hoping that this Simpson affair would get sorted but it seems he's happy to get erased from climbing history. He's content with his life and has no plans to get involved. A strange standpoint in my view but there you go, he's an odd fish. For my own piece of mind i contacted the guy who Rich told me belayed him on Liquid Ambar and Hubble. He replied this:

Quote
Yes, I can confirm Rich done these routes as I belayed him.
Makes me laugh that people are doubting him. I tried to log on to U.K Climbing website when I read about the story but unfortunatly my schools sever wouldn't let me (I am in Thailand). Maybe people will stop doubting him now! Maybe he upset someone, I know he can be an arrogant little twat sometimes!!!

But i guess its too little too late. Case closed.

Not at all. The more we can salavge from the wreckage the better. Is this Dan Tounley (sp.) ?. Can he log in to UKB ? It would be good to have first hand witness testimony. I'm sure a few Q and A's would then establish those ascents as a start.

Doylo

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#83 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 08:44:08 pm
I've met the guy in question. I believe he is completely credible, i think if someone asked him to lie for them he would probably kick their head in. He knows his stuff re climbing (climbs 8b+). To be honest Shark he is a bit of a (how shall i put this) livewire. I was surprised to get such such a measured response and i think you've no chance of getting him to do a question and answer session.

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#84 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 08:50:09 pm
I get what you're saying Chris, but if he's working in a school he must be quite capable of measuring his words. Whether he'll agree to is a different matter perhaps?

GraemeA

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#85 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 08:58:02 pm
I get what you're saying Chris, but if he's working in a school he must be quite capable of measuring his words. Whether he'll agree to is a different matter perhaps?

Assuming the guy is a teacher I am more concerned with his grammar than anything else.

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#86 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 09:02:59 pm
Cant believe ukc have done an article on this... bunch of chimps.


I think you're being a bit unfair on UKC here. They took a position because, at the time, there was no evidence to suggest that Simpson had climbed x,y,z, despite a reasonably concerted effort to find some. This seems perfectly reasonable to me. How can you form a view on something with no evidence to support it (unless you are of a religious persuasion of cause)? Subsequently evidence has come to light which suggests Simpson did climb x or y, or z or ... well you get the idea. This doesn't make UKC a 'bunch of chimps' it just means there is evidence which wasn't available to them at the time.

Doylo

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#87 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 09:09:58 pm
UKC have done nothing wrong. Simpson has completely brought it on himself.

Ru

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#88 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 09:20:28 pm
I've met the guy in question. I believe he is completely credible, i think if someone asked him to lie for them he would probably kick their head in. He knows his stuff re climbing (climbs 8b+). To be honest Shark he is a bit of a (how shall i put this) livewire. I was surprised to get such such a measured response and i think you've no chance of getting him to do a question and answer session.

I've met him too, on a few occasions. He's from Birmingham I think. I met him in Siurana with Rich in about 2001, and saw him redpoint Bou i Prou, 8b. I think Stu was there too as he was on that trip with me. Dan's climbed a lot with Rich and climbed some hard routes, but likes to stay out of the limelight.

SA Chris

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#89 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 10:09:16 pm
Assuming the guy is a teacher I am more concerned with his grammar than anything else.

Why what happened to her?

Sloper

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#90 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 21, 2010, 11:02:38 pm
Sorry old things but I can't consider this as in anyway cedible evidence.

Ru, would you advise go to a fast track hearing on liability on the basis of the above?

Ru

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#91 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 07:33:08 am
A trial on which point? Bit of an odd question - would all depend. Most of the "evidence" in this matter wouldn't get anywhere near being considered in a trial.

mrjonathanr

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#92 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 08:05:14 am
Sorry old things but I can't consider this as in anyway cedible evidence.

There isn't credible evidence at any point in the discussion that's taken place. People just listen to a range of observations and make up their minds to varying degrees of confidence giving greater weight to some points of view than others, depending on perceived level of insight.

What's the word for that? Circumstantial ? Normal ?

Bonjoy

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#93 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 08:21:52 am
Either the guy is credible or he isn't. Thankfully there is a very easy way for him to prove if he is, absolutely and without a shred of doubt.

Ru

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#94 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 08:42:19 am
Either the guy is credible or he isn't. Thankfully there is a very easy way for him to prove if he is, absolutely and without a shred of doubt.

Brain exam? Mind meld?

mark s

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#95 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 09:17:30 am
Assuming the guy is a teacher I am more concerned with his grammar than anything else.

Why what happened to her?

haha

a few proved ascents will not prove all the other stuff he claimed.
i still think his name should be wiped from the climbing records.
ive noticed he's still on moon website,you would have thought they would also cut any ties with him as his other sponsers did

mrjonathanr

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#96 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 09:18:55 am
Assuming the guy is a teacher I am more concerned with his grammar than anything else.

Yeah you just can't get the staff these days.  :wave: Happy Xmas old bean.

I'm quite interested in Rupert's brain exam thingy. Will that be a credible alternative to coursework?  :)

GraemeA

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#97 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 09:29:27 am
  :wave: Happy Xmas old bean.

And to you.

Anyway it will all get sorted out soon. Jens has been in contact with RS and will soon publish a complete load of codswallop that will not only prove RS has done all sorts of stuff that he hasn't even claimed but also that UKC is actually run by robots controlled by Ben Heason and it's all a massive conspiracy.


Bonjoy

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#98 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 10:19:54 am
Either the guy is credible or he isn't. Thankfully there is a very easy way for him to prove if he is, absolutely and without a shred of doubt.

Brain exam? Mind meld?
This chap says he has the videos of Rich doing Careless and Liquid Ambar. I for one would take his word for it regards Hubble if I saw the video of LA. I think few would argue that this proved his credibility as a belayer/witness. Given that it is such a simple matter for him to do this I see no reason to take anything he says as credible until such time as the videos are shown. I believe the videos are in a non digital format, but there is no need for a complex re-formatting, a phone video of it playing on a screen will be fine.
Now Iím not a betting man but Iím willing to put a £50 bet on with any RS true believer that these videos will for some reason never materialise. Any takers?
« Last Edit: December 22, 2010, 11:05:43 am by Bonjoy »

mark s

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#99 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 22, 2010, 10:42:56 am
Either the guy is credible or he isn't. Thankfully there is a very easy way for him to prove if he is, absolutely and without a shred of doubt.

Brain exam? Mind meld?
This chap says he has the videos of Rich doing Careless and Liquid Ambar. I for one would take his word for it regards Hubble if I saw the video of LA. I think few would argue that this proved his credibility. Given that it is such a simple matter for him to do this I see no reason to take anything he says as credible until such time as the videos are shown. I believe the videos are in a non digital format, but there is no need for a complex re-formatting, a phone video of it playing on a screen will be fine.
Now Iím not a betting man but Iím willing to put a £50 bet on with any RS true believer that these videos will for some reason never materialise. Any takers?
i think your money is as safe as houses there jon
these videos would have appeared long ago.
i was expecting rs to be in the bbc sports personallity final 10 this year

 

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