[lemony]

Right, so I've had a Beastmaker 2000 for getting on for a year now and i'm using it a couple of times a week. I've never been able to hang even the 35 degree slopers on it for any time at all and can't touch the 45s. The holds just feel slick and I slide off. I'm a hell of a lot stronger than I was when I got it but it doesn't seem any easier.

I'd always chalked this up to my being fat and weak (which obviously contributes) however I've recently had a play on a few other boards (citybloc and the depot boards plus one in a shop and I think there's a beastmaker in Climb Newcastle which I had a go on) and I can not only hang the 35s reasonably easily, I can do repeaters on them and hang the 45s for several seconds. I've since checked the angle of my board and I'm pretty sure it's plumb vertical. I've re-sanded the holds with  lower grits to try and get some purchase - I'm now down to 60 grit and the thing still seems impossible.

Am I just being piss weak or is there some other variable I'm missing? Are the well-used boards at walls easier than less well worn home boards?

[Falling Down]

I only hung the 45's for the first time recently on my home board and several mates tell me that the public boards have worn in a bit more.

[Andy F]

My board is much harder to hang than the one at Awesome walls Liverpool. The texture on the wall board is much more 'rippley' than my board at home, with far better friction. My advice - man the hell up and pull hard on the home board 

[tomtom]

MTFU (and use the corners until you dont need them - or the odd pinky dragging somewhere else..  )

[rodma]

if it's any consolation, I can barely hang the 35s convincingly, let alone hanging the 45s whilst nestling.


But I gues that means that we both need to MTFU

[account_inactive]

There does seem to be a big difference on the sanding finish of the boards and the type of wood used.  My fingerboard feels polished and I have to try really hard to hold the 30's but at the Works I can lock of on them 

[tomtom]

Maybe the works has a custom tweaked BeastMaker where the 35's are 33's - just to make the Works customers feel good about themselves 

[Fultonius]

Yup, same here - spent the last 6 months working up to full repeaters on the 35s in the flat and can't hang the 45s. The first time I tried the one at the glasgow wall I pissed all over the 45s. Angle (measured by phone inclinometer thing) is very similar, so it's either moisture level or texture that's doing it!

Or I just get really fucking strong when I walk through the doors at GCC 

[lemony]

Consensus seems to be to stop whinging and get on with it. Duely noted.


/gets on with it

[Eddies]

FACTOID: Home boards are always harder to hang than gym boards.

Conditions make all the difference. A board in a warm room and/or kitchen with oil in the air will be a lot more difficult to hang than one in a cooler gym. Also the gym boards will get more hammer and so will bed-in a lot quicker.
Then theres the fact that at a wall you most certainly will have had a boulder for a while first and so will be well warmed-up whereas at home its a lot harder to warm-up as well.

It all money in the bank 

[Serpico]

My board is much harder to hang than the one at Awesome walls Liverpool.

I can't believe you've even upgraded your Beastmaker
It's a sickness Andy - you need to get help.

[shark]

FACTOID: Home boards are always harder to hang than gym boards.

Conditions make all the difference. A board in a warm room and/or kitchen with oil in the air will be a lot more difficult to hang than one in a cooler gym. Also the gym boards will get more hammer and so will bed-in a lot quicker.
Then theres the fact that at a wall you most certainly will have had a boulder for a while first and so will be well warmed-up whereas at home its a lot harder to warm-up as well.

It all money in the bank 

Its the amount of use they get at the gym/wall that makes the difference. The Foundry one was slick when it first went up.

[Paul B]

doesn't help that the beam its on is ever so slightly twisted either.

[ShortRound]

I was finding the 35s impossible on my BM for a while but then, taking the advice of someone on the borg, i brushed some chalk into the wood (and removed the excess) which made them much less slippy. I'm approaching a full set of repeaters on them now.

[Andy F]

My board is much harder to hang than the one at Awesome walls Liverpool.

I can't believe you've even upgraded your Beastmaker
It's a sickness Andy - you need to get help.

Actually I'm downgrading the one at Awesome and keeping mine the same grade 

[Nibile]

the other day my friend told me he hung repeatedly the 45° and I was really impressed. I tried his Beast and found it "soft". I measured it and it's almost perfect vertical. so at home I controlled mine and found out it's actually a bit overhanging.
seems like I was too eager to mount it!!!
][url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/5261191573/]

edit: sorry I don't know why it comes out twice.

[Krank]

I was finding the 35s impossible on my BM for a while but then, taking the advice of someone on the borg, i brushed some chalk into the wood (and removed the excess) which made them much less slippy. I'm approaching a full set of repeaters on them now.

, i did this and it made a big difference

[yorkshireman]

the 45's on my beastmaker 2000 are barely hangable for me but my board is about 3 degrees overhanghing.the one at the depot climbing wall is about 1-2 degree positive so the 45's are way easier there but still quite hard.i think the boards do get easier with use and obviously a wall board is always going to get more use than a person board,unless your an absolute training animal

[Lund]

READ THE SANDPAPER GRADES THING ON THE BEASTMAKER SITE

[slackline]

READ THE SANDPAPER GRADES THING ON THE BEASTMAKER SITE

Which can be found here (only takes a few seconds to link to a resource you are citing  )

[Robsons]

I agree with Shark! The one at the Arch feels like there's almost a rubber coating on it - where as mine is nails - max hold of just over 1 second!

[Dexter]

the 45's on my beastmaker 2000 are barely hangable for me but my board is about 3 degrees overhanghing.the one at the depot climbing wall is about 1-2 degree positive so the 45's are way easier there but still quite hard.i think the boards do get easier with use and obviously a wall board is always going to get more use than a person board,unless your an absolute training animal

I find this too my BM is mounted on a powerbar and has a tendancy to flex meaning the heavier you are the greater the angle so heavy people have to work a lot harder to hold the slopers

[slackline]

I find this too my BM is mounted on a powerbar and has a tendancy to flex meaning the heavier you are the greater the angle so heavy people have to work a lot harder to hold the slopers

Theres a good incentive to loose weight!