[shark]

Weight 11.6-8 (New aim lose about 1lb pw)

Light week:

M
T Eve Edge with Duncan. AnCap 4x4 session leading routes. Showed more restraint than previous week. Caught Duncan's cold.
W. Eve Foundry. A bit of bouldering on Wave then 10 easy problems x 4. Boring.
T. Eve Foundry with boys. Full of cold. 10mins continuous climbing x 4. Got intensity wrong. Ben TR'ed a 7a clean 
F.
S.
S Hung around at Edge while boys did the comp. Eve. Fingerboard - unstructured - felt strong.

Developed a cold but fortunately it was a light week in the schedule anyway. Resolved to lose weight gradually over next 10 weeks. Quite psyched after my fingerboard session this evening - seemed to have banked some strength gains. Cunning will be required to stick to programme over next two weeks due to family commitments.

[205Chris]

STGs: Go highballing
MTGs: Sport 8a next summer

M:
T: Campus session at the works plus a few comp problems.
W:
T: Foundry. Bouldering on the wave. Think I need to spend more time here over the winter as it really seems to be working my weaknesses.
F: Snow shovelling at Burbage North.
S: More snow shovelling. Ticked Ai No Corrida and Nefertiti.
S: Walked up to the plantation then high neb. Ticked Monad & Beauty but no snowballing to be had. Head back to Burbage North for spotting duties as a friend had unfinished business.

Hugely enjoyable weekend. Good scenes at Burbage North both days plus a couple of bonus highball ticks thanks to the snow. Still hoping to get either chip shop brawl or tierdrop ticked off before the end of the year.

[cheque]

STG: E1 (at least) on grit this spring, 6C/ V5 on grit this winter
MTG: E1 (at least) on big cliffs/ 6c+ sport next summer,
LTG: Good enough for 2012/13 USA trip

The current lack of daylight and transport makes these all seem quite abstract- hard to relate to the pictures in the Peak guidebooks, let alone the Yosemite one!

M: Nothing
T: Indoor leading. Plenty of 'falling practice', too. Ace session. My partner almost decks out from ~8m as I lift off the ground so much when he falls. 
W: Nothing
T: Indoor bouldering
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: indoor bouldering. New problems at the wall. It seems I'm operating one (arbitrary indoor) grade harder than I was a month ago at all angles.  First session without knee support since I hurt it. Feels fine 'til very end when I tweak it again. 

I'm so determined not to let my climbing go to shit again this winter. I identified that my movement skills were holding me back so I've switched to a straight diet of indoor climbing, which seems to be working well in everything but the injury department..

[tomtom]

M>T nada
Fri. Logport wall - good short session
Sat. Great day out at da 'cliff. All the old faves done (DWR, BellySlap, Low CruxTrav) and some flailing progress on Uhand...
Su. Ache and pub lunch 

Looks like a poor week ahead though - week in Suburbs of Londininium followed by Xmas do's.. I see weight increases and hangovers in the week coming..

[duncan]

STG: V5 / Font 6c
MTG: E5 os & 7b rp
LTG: reduce time-out through injury

M - Arch: bouldering
T- Shoulder stability stuff: side-planks etc.
W - Arch: bouldering
T - nothing
F - Arch: bouldering
S - Arch bouldering
S - Shoulder stability stuff

Much as previous week: keeping the sessions short, productive and staying fit.  Cross fingers that this continues. 

[joeisidle]

STG- Font 7a that isn't steep and crimpy (or in the cave)
MTG- Font 7b by the end of 2011

Monday- Rest
Tuesday- Rest and pushups
Wednesday- Indoor volume session. Did a variety of boulder problems for two hours
Thursday- Fingerboarding
Friday- Rest
Saturday- Outdoors on western grit, managed to find one dry piece of rock out of the whole of the Roaches Upper and Lower Tier and Newstones
Sunday- Rest and pushups

[nai]

season goals - 7Cs, Brad Pit & grit E4s
2011 goals - 8a, Resurrection, Flaky Wall

m
t
W - Rivelin - did Acid Reign and Moontan, great and very good.
T - Eaglestone by mistake, a real slog in & out, most problems suffering to some degree.  Had a short go on FAFBM, progress but no top.  Tried the crimpy one, close but was running out of skin & daylight. The former not really surprising having tried two of the sharpest problems in the peak on consecutive days.
f -
SS - came down with cold.

Wed was good, Thu a case of heart overruling head.  Gutted to miss out on the weekend activities at Burbage, hope to get out tomorrow to get something done.

[aly]

LLTG: 7C and 8a
MTG: one armer and/or frontlever
MTG: be able to vaguely climb again, sort finger out


Bit of an odd week, feeling pretty run down but managed to get some stuff done.  Definitely seem to have a cold coming on.

Mon: Power-enduro session at Stoke wall, feeling OK, getting on the 45.  Trying to concentrate on slightly harder problems with a bit more rest.  Felt beasted by the end.
Tues: Afternoon at Robin Hoods/Cratcliffe.  Some good hard slabs and failed miserably (shock horror) on Jerrys.
Weds: Repeaters session and pullups on fingerboard
Thurs: Pull up session and deadhangs on fingerboard
Fri: Another power-enduro session at Stoke.  Starting to feel better, especially with the foot-on campus work but also feeling tired.
Sat: nothing apart from revising, felt crap.
Sun: Felt crap, should have revised but went to Stanage.  Failure on some old nemesis projects, and unsuspected success on a few more (only slabs unfortunately).  Awesome day even if I wasn't climbing well.

[Luthor]

STG - Manage to get on grit when a) have free time, b) dry...
MTG - Thinking about what is realistically achievable next year..

Mon - nowt

Tues - Bouldered at the Works. Cold and short of time - did black circuit quickly

Wed - Dug car out and got jump start, went to pub

Thurs - Lunchtime climb at works. Had a play on circuit board. Think more time spent here might be useful for routes fitness next year..

Fri - Nowt

Sat - Bit short of time so indoor climb at Works. Did some new pink problems and had a play on new comp wall set (some good problems).

Sun - Rest

[Plattsy]

STG - Summat 'ard in Sydney before Mid Jan.

M - Bouldered at the SICG with Carnage. Good session. Finished with pull ups, press ups and crunches.
T - Short run. 3m.
W - Gym. 5min row, 2k effort 7:30. Weights pyramids. Bench, Lat PD, Seated Row, Arm curls, Shoulder press.
T - Longer run. 6m (got a bit lost).
F - Rest
S - Bouldered at Lindfield (couple of 4s). Good session but too hot to pull 'ard. Gym. 5min row, 2k effort 7:34. Weights pyramids. Flys, Lat PD, Seated Row, Pec Dec. Shoulder press.
S - Boulder at Pearl Bay. Relaxed sesh. Fun.

Much better week. Hoping to continue this week.

[Muenchener]

STG: Aerobic / mileage base phase of Periodised Winter Plan for Arco at Easter. 30 minutes traversing or continuously on a route, without pumping or resorting to no-hands rests
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Bouldering: short session in office gym. Half hour warm up / playing. 20 minutes traversing: this is definitely anaerobic intervals and not ARC for me at this wall at the moment, but presumably will be of some benefit. A few Shoulder stabilisation sets to warm down.
T: yoga
W: Wall: Thalkirchen with Frau Muenchener. Mileage night: a dozen routes, didn't try anything hard. Feeling weaker than I was a month ago, but points to remember about this:
(a) the aim is not to *feel* strong now, it is to *be* strong at Easter
(b) take a longer perspective: in August, I was doing mileage at UIAA V, plus or minus; now UIAA VI. (If I go up another full number grade in another four months, the Winter Training Programme will have succeeded beyond my wildest dreams)
... so ok really.
T:
F: Bouldering: office gym much the same a Monday
S:
S: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. 20 mins ARC then a short session trying problems. Managed two problems on the next harder circuit than the one I'm currently working on, which was nice. Need to avoid too much Playing To Strengths whilst training however. The three problems I have yet to do on the current circuit are the three steepest; today's "harder" two are vertical/technical/fingery.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

I think I'm at the stage of admitting defeat on the 2010 goals.  Useless.

M-  Work, illness, wine.
T-  Work, illness, wine.
W-  Work, illness, wine.
T-  Work, illness, wine.
F-  Work, drove to Glasgow, whisky.
S-  Stomped up Ben Vane and Beinn Ime in semi- wintery conditions.  Lager.
S-  Drove home, later on took the Boss into Manc for her Xmas night out.  Reminded me how pleased I am not to be doing that commute anymore.

Monday weigh in of 83.1kg. 

A pretty poor week really.  I shall blame the crap weather and illnss and pray this week is better.  Need some psyche.

[chris05]

STG: 7A

M: 4m run, core (430) & BM max hangs
T: work xmas meal and booze
W: conference meal and booze
T: press-ups, pull-ups, core (450) & BM repeaters
F: 7m icy trail and road run & core (1000)
S: 6m road run, core (450) & weights
S: bouldering at cratcliffe and RHS

Still didn't get the cave RH but going to give it an enforced rest until after xmas, did nearly manage a 7A traverse at cratcliffe so hoping the break-through should come pretty quickly after xmas. Haven't managed my STG but have made good strength/power gains which I need to translate into actual improvements by climbing more.

A reasonable week considering work parties etc, same again this week and then off to Scotland to see the family for 3 weeks over xmas.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same

M: Light stretching.
T: 4 x4's with Simon - Felt weak, tired and generally like I was coming down with summat. Managed the full session though (yea I finished on the circuit board Simon - 6b 6b 6a 6b;-)
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: a big fat nuffink
S: Notalot
S: Boulder @ Stanage and Burb West - Did some easy problems at Stanage and failed to repeat Breakfast at Burbage W.. Was staring the top in the face but couldn't have pulled a loose tooth out of a dead horses head.. It's true you can't have fun when you're weak! You can however have a couple of pints in front of a fire and lament said weakness while celebrating yer mate's ascent of Famous Grouse (effort Tim!).

Rubbish  Rubbish  Rubbish  Rubbish  Rubbish   Keeping on keeping on though, felt crap all week without actually having the cold that was looming do anything other than simmer.. Family shizzle meant that volume was compromised and didn't make up for it

This week: Try harder, do more, quit moaning!

:D

[webbo]

Mon.rockcity managed one off the last 3 problems i've still to do of current set.
Tue.nothing plus wine.
Wed.too cold to go on turbo in garage so nothing.
Thu.rockcity.repeated all the problems i can do.not in the best style,however my concentration wasn't helped by a call from the missus to inform me teenage daughter has arranged to go to scotland to get married .whiskey.
Fri.wine.
Sat.leeds wall couldn't get my head together enough to go outside.manage to knacker my left knee.
Sun.spend most of the day at goole hospital getting my knee xrayed.nothing broken but come away with a support bandage and a pair of crutches.

[aly]

Since they don't seem to need much warm-up, I have started adding short lever sessions at odd times of day like before breakfast. This seems to be working ....

Hi, what are lever negatives if you don't mind me asking.  And any tips on training for front levers other than trying them (and failing, but failing less and less each time?).  Can you use assistance well to help train them?
cheers

[shark]

And any tips on training for front levers other than trying them (and failing, but failing less and less each time?).  Can you use assistance well to help train them?
cheers

Just dug out some advice on this I got from Alex Fry (beast) :

"I had 4 2.5gk weight plates and a short piece of rope.  I would tie the rope in a loop through the plates and do leg raises whilst hanging off a bar.  I started of with one plate and fairly bent legs and gradually increased it until I could do straight leg raises with 4 plates.  Did this for about 2 or 3 months and have never seriously trained it since but since then have always been able to do front levers."   

Beastskills article also worth checking out. Worth mentioning that as front levers are a whole system type exercise it may be only one weak link in the chain that is stopping you do them anyway.

I tend to avoid them as they are sort of thing that fucks my lower back up.

[Falling Down]

M - Nowt
T - 5k row plus weights and fingerboard
W - T Work/Travel in London
F - S Poorly again

Was feeling better Tuesday so had a good session at home on the rower, weights and fingerboard.   Then came down with a right stinker of a cold on Thursday and have been drowning in snot and feeling wobbly ever since.  Two whole weeks of f'ck all basically.

[Barratt]

Mon: 8mile walk. 60 wide press ups, bit of Theraband
Tues: 10 mins on board, couldn't' get into it. 200 wide press ups, 100 situps and shed loads of Theraband.
Wed: Nowt that I can remember
Thurs: Short trip to Rivelin, got very stuck in the carp park ice.
Friday: Drunk in France
Sat: Drunk in France
Sun: Drunk in France

Trip to france scuppered progress this week, was good fun though! Shoulder exercises seem to be doing some good, will try and step them up a little.

Weight: 71.3kg
Shoulder: 6 out of 10

[Nibile]

mon - the wailing wall. 2,5 hours on crimps, pinches and underclings.
tue - rest.
wed - one armers. 6 sets of 1 one armer (frontal no twisting) + bicep curl superset (7 movs x 14 kg).
thu - rest.
fri - drove to Creschtianov.
sat - almost quit climbing forever.
sun - got back into climbing. good vibes, no success. oh wait, good vibes ARE a success.

[i_a_coops]

M
T - Sandstone bouldering. Faceplanted off the top jug of a 7B due to unexpected ice. 
W - Westway, bouldering then routes. Far too long a session followed by no sleep, not ideal.
T - SLEEP
F - Sandstone bouldering, did some rubbish eliminates.
S - Sandstone bouldering. excelled myself at setting a rubbish eliminate link up traverse that involved going round in a little circle halfway along, and ignoring a lot of jugs. (roughly: easy 7B into 7A into 6C into 6C. Hardest bit of climbing I've ever done and it was also by far the most godawful eliminate ever)
S
M - Washout at Burbage. Tried West Side Story, lost lots of skin, friend twisted ankle. Then failed miserably on a 6C.
T - bouldering at Stoney, did Zippy's Sidepull (YYFY) I love eliminate training bouldering...

I'm going to take a few weeks off power club now as I won't be able to climb for a bit, I think I could do with some rest actually! I'll back in January when the training for 8a begins.

STG: Relax...

 

[nik at work]

Nothing, again, shitbaskets.

[chris_j_s]

STG: Increase climbing time without reinjuring finger.

Nearly seven weeks after finger injury and last week was the first where I've had more than one session in a week. Unfortunately, the finger is still noticably swollen despite ice/cold water treatments and ibuprofen (gel and tablets) and the swelling doesn't appear to be going down from week to week.

Hopefully patience will pay off eventually but I've got to a point where I'm slightly despondant about the lack of improvement. Climbing open handed doesn't hurt although at the end of a session I get a dull ache which probably indicates increased swelling but this is easy enough to control with ice and ibuprofen gel. Crimping in any shape or form is still a big no no.

Luckily I have a distrction as all my remaining spare time is taken up with a massive DIY project, uncovering and restoring the original georgian floorboards in our living room. They have been severely abused in the past but I think they will come up well - this needs to be finished before Christmas but is incredibly labour intensive as I'm not using any sanding machines, everything is done by hand to preserve the character of the floor as best as possible!

M:
T: Bouldering at Ingleton. Feeling reasonably strong on the problems and don't seem to have lost too much fitness on the circuits although I am definately a notch or two down from where I was a couple of months ago.
W:
T:
F:
S: Routes at Ingleton. 10 or so routes, all onsighted, up to 6c+, pleasantly surprised with the session as I expected to struggle on the 6c/6c+'s.
S: