[shark]

Weight 11.7-8

M Foundry 30 problems or attempts at range of grades
T Eve Edge with Duncan. AnCap 4x4 session leading routes. Overcooked it a bit incorporating a 7a+ and a couple of 6c+'s so went a bit too anaerobic.
W.
T. Eve Foundry. Got a bit over-excited with new problems on the Wave and overcooked it.
F. Noon. Fingerborading and a few other bits. Faded quicker than should have. PM Foundry. Felt beaten warming up so just did 20mins SACC. Eve Gig in Derby and beers.
S Hungover
S AM Foundry. 4reps 3 sets of 13 move problem on 40deg board - much improved. Some xmas shopping. PM back to Foundry with boys. Did some continuity stuff in Furnace - again overcooked it on one of the routes - a gnarly 6c+. Eve Some maximal hangs on Beastmaker.

Wot I have lurned this week - don't overcook it on the AeroCap sessions otherwise it's not aerobic  or get so burnt on the AnPower that 2 days rest is required 

Light week this week 

[Muenchener]

STG: Aerobic / mileage base phase of Periodised Winter Plan for Arco at Easter. 30 minutes traversing or continuously on a route, without pumping or resorting to no-hands rests
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Made better use of business trip evenings this week.

M:
T: Bouldering, Escaladrome Hannover. Warmed up with 40 minutes of easy-to-middling problems, up to & including a couple at my onsight limit, then 25 minutes ARC traversing. Very good bouldering wall.
W: Wall, Ahlen. Half a dozen easy routes then ARC traversing. Made it to half an hour - good - but fell once and rested on no-hands bridges a couple of times. Less good.
T:
F:
S: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. 20 mins ARC traverse to warm up: still struggling to find a level easy enough to not be intermittently pumped. An hour bouldering: two new problems done on current project circuit. Another 30 minutes ARC traversing: better. Then negated all training benefit with pre-Christmas night out on the beer with mates.
S: Circus - watching not performing. Impressed by acrobats. (Circus Roncalli - best circus I've ever seen. Highly recommended)

Wot I have lurned this week: terrain, other than no-hands slabs, on which I can go for half an hour without getting pumped scarcely seems to exist.    There are people who do not have this problem: I remember seeing Tony Ryan spend 45 minutes continuously on the steep bit of Broughton, some time back in the 90s

[Barratt]

Mon: 3mile walk. 3mile run.
Tues: 6mile walk.
Wed: 6mile walk. Short board session.
Thurs: 100 wide pressups, theraband.
Friday: Nowt
Sat: Works, tick all black circuit. Flash all but two.
Sun: Nowt

Week ahead goingto be similar, but more night runnig and less walking to work in snow!

Weight: 71.5kg
Shoulder: 5 out of 10

[duncan]

STG: V5 / Font 6c
MTG: E5 os & 7b rp
LTG: reduce time-out through injury to <25%

M - Shoulder stability stuff: side-planks etc.
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Arch: bouldering, short session
T - Arch: bouldering, short session
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Arch bouldering, short session.  Did a V4.
S - Shoulder stability stuff

Productive week, keeping the wall sessions short, climbing numerically a bit harder but only on technical problems.  Anything requiring the tiniest basic strength is completely beyond me.   Guess what I should be training.

[Falling Down]

Poorly all week.

M-S  Nowt.

Even had a day off work on Thursday.  Feeling better today so will ease back into it.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always...

M: Light Stretchning
T: 4x4 session @ The Edge with Simon - Seeing progress! Gone from being completely boxed by the 3rd set and not even being able to hold jugs to completing the full excercise on routes of 6b-6c.......... And not feeling like Simon's going to get thrown up on from a great height
W: Sledging with the boy.
T: Sledging with the boy. Boulder @ The Works - Cold and not feeling like pushing it so did 4x10's on the new black circuit.. (40 problems in the circuit, flashed all but 5 - nice circuit). Bought beastmaker! 
F: Nowt - Noticed split under nail on right middle finger.... Feels like someone's been putting pins down there!
S: DJ Reggae, lump about speaker boxes an dance about like an idiot...
S: Hungover.

Started well finished poorly.... Must try harder!

:D

[cheque]

STG: 6c/ V5 this winter, E1 on grit in the spring
MTG: E1 on big cliffs in the summer
LTG: US trad trip 2012/2013 -be good enough to not want to 'go back and do those harder routes next year'

Shortly after posting on here last week I realised I'd not 'banged my knee' bouldering in the snow but had in fact strained something inside it by not warming up enough.  Not a great thing to discover at the start of a week off work.

M-F: Nothing except sitting down, eating and reading.
S+S: indoor bouldering. Going well! Fingers feel a bit tweaky afterwards- probably due to all the eating, but knee feels fine.

Reading Dave McLeod's '9 out of 10...' book has really given me an idea of how I need to direct my training and approach to climbing, with immediate positive effects, eg. I didn't realise how much I strived to climb every move statically and how counterproductive this was. By focussing on this I'm succeeding on problems that shut me down weeks ago. 

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

A week of illness and shit weather.

M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Felt a bit ill, so opted to go out in the snow to dig at top outs of problems in some Lancashire Quarry.
T- Felt like crap at work, fevers, generally miserable.  Swapped to single Malt to stave off illness.
F-  Day in bed on the verge of Man Flu Death.  More whisky, not working dammit.
S-  Still not up to much, family stuff.  Whisky working now.
S-  Had 2 hours in a freezing pool at a kid's swim party.  Kill or cure I suppose.  Ran out of Gave up on the whisky, back to red wine.

Monday weigh in of 85.1kg.   Oh dear, oh dear what a duff week.

[i_a_coops]

STG: Unfinished business on SS, 7C, The Wish (probably ambitious given it's a morpho 7C+), try and tick a sneaky 8a
MTG: Get massively route fit for next sport season, unfinished sport business around the SW and then hit Cheedale and Raven Tor.
LTG: 8A

M - Iffley (old-school vertical stone indoor wall), I reckon it's actually possible to get strong here if you just use the brickwork for feet - just like Pinches Wall!

T - rubbish P.E. session
W - Westway, Euro-stamina. Very little sleep afterwards unfortunately...
T - Messing around on the new problems at Brookes, ticked pretty much everything apart from the 2 V8+s, not bad for 4th day on.

2 hours sleep, then....

F - lots of work and caffeine
S - Wow I am tired
S - Still tired!

Started off a good week for training, probably undone all the work with the lack of sleep/caffeine binges I resorted to at the end of the week unfortunately. And I've got to shovel a lot of snow before I can even get out the house! Rubbish!

[aly]

Not a bad week but a rubbish weekend in the end due to the weather.

LLTG: 7C and F8a
MTG: one armer and front lever, be able to weight finger again

This week been trying to work on power endurance, need gently overhaning wall, small holds, 15-20 moves.

Mon: Fingerboard, repeaters session (7 on 3 off)
Tues: Run (6.1 miles, snow) felt good for first half, a bit ropey for second half)
         Fingerboard session, short deadhangs and pull ups
Weds: Run (3.7 miles, snow) feeling OK
          Wall session, focusing on doing ~8-15 move problems with 1 minute rest + some foot-on campus board, felt beasted.
Thurs: Churnet session, skin torn to shreds and got shut down on everything.  Bastard cold day too. 
           brief pull up and front lever session
Fri: Brief pull up and front-lever session.  Managed one-armer from ~15 degrees below 90 up to top (with 2kg assistance).  PB
Sat: weather grim, nothing
Sun: Tried to go climbing, snow and ice scuppered most of that but I suceeded in getting very cold and pissing off the gf.  Fairly brief fingerboard session, short deadhangs and pullups.

Next week:  keep going with the power-enduro stuff indoors and more repeaters.  Fingers crossed for good conditions next weekend.

[Muenchener]

M - Iffley (old-school vertical stone indoor wall), I reckon it's actually possible to get strong here if you just use the brickwork for feet - just like Pinches Wall!

Surely you don't mean Iffley Road in Oxford !!!??? My alma mater! Does anybody still voluntarily train in places like that?

It most certainly is: Johnny Dawes' brother Mike went from E2 to E6 in a couple of years by training there, back when E6 was really E6.

[i_a_coops]

M - Iffley (old-school vertical stone indoor wall), I reckon it's actually possible to get strong here if you just use the brickwork for feet - just like Pinches Wall!

Surely you don't mean Iffley Road in Oxford !!!??? My alma mater! Does anybody still voluntarily train in places like that?

It most certainly is: Johnny Dawes' brother Mike went from E2 to E6 in a couple of years by training there, back when E6 was really E6.

That's the one! (and only...) Most of the problems in the Iffley guidebook have zero training value (unless you're training for Iffley, i.e. rubbish polished handholds and jugs for your feet) , but with a bit of imagination you can set problems where you have to pull. Johnny Dawes' no footholds traverse is good training too!

As for voluntarily training there, it's a choice between Iffley and the wall down in Brookes, they're both quite bad in different ways....   

[webbo]

Mon. rockcity warmed up then 2 x11 problems 40+ in total
Tue.wine
Wed. turbo session 1 hour.
Thu. rockcity similar session to monday 50 problems in 1 and half hours.wine
Fri.shovelling snow 1 hour.turbo 1 hour.wine
Sat.went oakland wall in york a bit of a shit session.wine
Sun.shovelled more snow.went christmas shopping with the missus.Wine
Appear to getting to new heights or lows in fatness stakes.god knows what i will be like by new year.

[Nibile]

good week all in all.
mon - the wailing wall. short problems, 4-5 moves. super power recruitment.
tue - rest.
wed - wall. very overhanging problems on good holds.
thu - one armers. 4x6 sets.
fri - beastmaker. max two armed deadhangs: 45°, slopey pockets, back 2 (medium), monos (index and middle), small rung back 3, small rung front 3; 6 sets each. good.
sat - rest.
sun - bouldering at Chiesina roof. nearly repeated the Direct and worked the LH project which is...

comments. when I train 4-5 times I feel stronger on rock. the last time I tool 3 days off before climbing I did terribly. so, this is the way forward.

[i_a_coops]

Three years of my life lost to that benighted town. I am pretty sure it's the furthest you can get from any outdoor climbing in Britain too ...

I think Cambridge is even worse.... 

At least next year I'm living with understanding people who like the sound of having Oxford's premier training facility in the attic!

[Muenchener]

Johnny Dawes' no footholds traverse is good training too!

I strongly suspect that may actually have been originally part of Mike's E2-to-E6 campaign, and only later mythologically attributed to Johnny 

Johnny's backward pitch from the ledge, having done the desperate mantel but then not being tall enough to reach the ceiling, was good spectator value esp. in the days before crashmats.

(Is it time to stop cluttering Power Club and start a "70s / 80s primitive climbing walls reminiscences" thread elsewhere?)

[205Chris]

STGs: Go highballing and 1-4-7 the big rungs at the works
MTGs: 8a route next year

M: Ill
T: Ill
W: Snow day off work. Campus session at the works.
T: Nada
F: Another snow day. Another campus session at the works.
S: Nada
S: Volume session at the works. Ticked the black circuit and added a few other problems in as well. Hopefully did around 500 moves or so.

Added 1-4-7 as a STG. Now trying to structure my training a little bit better as well as targeting specific weaknesses. Still hoping to get another highball off my list before Christmas.

[nai]

Season goals - bloc pyramid of 15 7B-7C+ problems peaking with Brad Pit (2 7B+s done so far), grit E4
2011 goals - 8a (number of options), lime & mountain E4s (Flakey Wall & Resurrection)

M - few hours at Eaglestone, only the back half was dry, top outs and descent were interesting.  Failed the 7B, struggled on the slopers despite the sub-zero conditions.
T - felt rough
W - kids nurseries shut so only managed the bathtime workout - 60 pullups, 30 pushups and dips.
T -  felt rough  - nurseries shut again so nowt.
 F - 2 hours snow shovelling.  Knackered
S - felt rough, also seem to have aggrevated low-lying finger and shoulder injuries while shovelling
S  - nowt

Strange times, every time I do some exercise I feel dreadful the following day. 

[tomtom]

STG develop enthusiasm
LTG (as STG) 7B+

M > S feck all. Drove to bridestones on sunday and took some nice snowy pictures.

[Luthor]

Sat: Works, tick all black circuit. Flash all but two.

Who saw you do the first sixteen? ;-)

Works thurs lunch?

L

[Luthor]

Crap snow week.. Lots of walking!

STG - Add to the small number of 7b successes so far. Train better, not get injured. Stay psyched.

Mon - Rest

Tues - Bouldered at the Works, crap session, couldn't get warm

Wed - Fingerboard sess on beastmaker. Tired? or just a lot worse at this than i used to be..

Thurs - nothing

Fri - nothing

Sat - Works. Did black circuit then had a play with probs on pink circuit.

Sun - busy

[Plattsy]

Do summat 'ard before I leave sydney.

M - Bouldered down SICG
T - Nowt
W - Bouldered with team Pom down the SICG
T - Work xmas do. Free beer, GnT, Jager  . Late night. Fell asleep on the train home (Epping) woke up in Gosford. Got off, caught next train back. Fell asleep again. Missed Epping station again. Got off at the next. Caught a taxi back. In for 5am on a school night.
F - Tired.
S - Free and civil booze cruise around the harbour with triple roast dinner. Not the boat which hit a load of other boats and ended up with crew fighting the punters and several people getting hurt.
S - Tired. First run for over 6 months. 3miles. Sore legs.

Not a great week but I AM back on it this week.

[chris05]

STG: 7A - should have done the cave RH at RHS but time is now against me, I may not even make it back to RHS before I head north for xmas so STG may have to become GSG (Grit Season Goal)

M:4m run & core (430)
T: pull-ups, press-ups, weights and BM (one-arm max hangs and 8sets of 8 footless moves)
W: 4.5m run
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: pull-ups, press-ups, weights and BM (one-arm max hangs and 8sets of 8 footless moves)
S: nothing

Fairly crap week again, although probably not as bad as this one is going to be. Just trying to maintain fitness/power for now.

[iain]

I've no idea what I did training wise last week, other than heed the rubbish forecast and take a trip to Bristol. Had a brilliantly fun session at TCA flailing around on some of the circuit problems.

Such a treat to climb at a good wall for a change. 


Anyway, no point in posting the same unfocussed rubbish every week so going to take a break from power club till after the new year.

[nik at work]

Still ill all week, fuckleberries.

Still got a hacking cough now and I've strained my lower back. This seasons grit routes revival is not looking good...

STG: Stop fucking coughing!

M/LTG: Trad grit, 8B, 8b+