Quite an interesting read. Thanks.I'd love to take part in a study to find out body fat % and lank strength just out of pure curiosity to see how weak my footwork is in comparison.
Biscuit 10% out on body fat, that is not bad news, just a great excuse for your current performance level also gives you a good future target only start worring if you get down to 6% body fat and your grades have not gone through the roof!! Just becareful not to loss too much muscle mass/strength on the way, that is the secret!!
I picked this up too - surely a better solution would be to add enough additional weight to negate the possibility of anyone hanging the hold, then you could allow all 4 fingers? Or am I being dim?
Quote from: Duma on November 26, 2010, 11:29:45 amI picked this up too - surely a better solution would be to add enough additional weight to negate the possibility of anyone hanging the hold, then you could allow all 4 fingers? Or am I being dim?the problem is you'd effectively need to know their 1 rep max straight away to do this otherwise getting there would have to be taken into account.
Surely those with stronger legs would do better as they could take more weiight.
for instance : i weight 66 kg in climbing wear.say i manage to hand off the hold shown in the test with 33 kg on the scale.my measurement would be : 66-33=33 kg. So i can pull 31 kg on such a hold, aka 50% of my body weight.
btw, imho any hold choice would be "biased", even the campus rung (do we see ever boulder problems with wooden campus rungs???)
Quote from: biscuit on November 26, 2010, 01:14:09 pmSurely those with stronger legs would do better as they could take more weiight.try this at home : -scale under the fingerboard. Stand on it-pick an hold you can't hang off 1-armed-slowly bend your legs to take weight off the scale (and on your hand!)
Quotefor instance : i weight 66 kg in climbing wear.say i manage to hand off the hold shown in the test with 33 kg on the scale.my measurement would be : 66-33=33 kg. So i can pull 31 kg on such a hold, aka 50% of my body weight.I don't think your maths are going to help with Biscuit's confusion