I have an idea of which i am leaning towards but just want to consult a bit wider before i commit.
Quote from: biscuit on November 22, 2010, 06:15:39 pmI have an idea of which i am leaning towards but just want to consult a bit wider before i commit.Whats your idea?and can you clarify your goal, all it says is a grade increase, are we talking base level, onsight, max redpoint (in this country?)?
Quote from: Paul B on November 23, 2010, 01:00:02 amQuote from: biscuit on November 22, 2010, 06:15:39 pmI have an idea of which i am leaning towards but just want to consult a bit wider before i commit.Whats your idea?and can you clarify your goal, all it says is a grade increase, are we talking base level, onsight, max redpoint (in this country?)?Redpoint grade in this country ( North England ). Just reached 7a+ last week on a Gaz Parry course and felt i had more in the bank. He said if i get my arse in gear 7c is achievable in the next 12 mths.
I have set myself the target of going from 7a+ to 7c in the next 12 mths and need some help putting together the last - and probably most important - part of my training plan.
The 'last'bit was deciding what to follow: periodisation or progression. I am just starting my 12 mths and aim to crack off a steep 7c in that time - just the one - probably comedy.
the old British tradition of a siege?
You pick your target - say a steep 7c and then test yourself against the suggested levels you need to be at to achieve it ( from SCC ). SCC is about routes not bouldering so i can't be specific for you. 4 sessions a week - 2 training and 2 performance where you build up your pyramids. The training sessions prioritise your weaknesses relating to your target. You may train all aspects in one workout. Once you've reached your target start again with a different/harder target. This means the stimulus never plateaus.
I'd periodize. For Comedy I'd also aim for power to spare, it'll make it more pleasant: it'll be practical to increase fitness if you're pumping out near the top that way, but if you've just enough power for the moves you'll need to be really fit. Also get some good info on the moves, there are a few tricks which can help.
SCC is about routes not bouldering so i can't be specific for you.
I've never quite managed to get it right to be honest. I think that I've always climbed at my best by thoroughly beasting myself for several days on and then taking a couple of rest days before each rock-day or comp. Then straight back to the beasting again.