[shark]

Weight 11.7-9

M Back sore took pain killers. Forearms ached from Sunday. Eve Foundry On the right side of the Wave. Did 4 sets of 10 easy problems. Had 10 mins rest between goes. Felt like a prat
T Forearms ached still. Back improved. Eve Edge. 4x4 session leading routes Set1 2x2 6b Set2 6bx2 6b+6c(cheat at top) Set3 x 6c(easy)x2 6b+ x 2 Set4 on LHS of articulated Wall 6b, 6b+, 6b(fall) (6b fall) Forearms felt better afterwards and following morning
W. Forearms fine. Eve. Foundry Went on 40 degree board to try to do AnCap Linked boulders routine but got hopelessly shutdown and had to abandon the session. Despair.
T. Eve Fingerhangs session – went OK
F. Up early drove to Cardiff. Spent the day interviewing. Got back late.
S AM Foundry with Ben. 6 goes on 6 short boulder problems. Went OK. Eve Fingerhangs session abandoned half way thru as strained my wrist.
S. Eve. 10 reps of 6 hard moves on board. Went OK

Mixed start to programme. Managed to do or attempt all the units over an 8 day week including last Sunday. Same programme this week so hopefully with a better scheduling and a bit more fitness and tweaking the intensity will be able to recover enough to complete all the sessions this week. Shocked to top the scales at 11.9 this week. Shouldn’t matter – but somehow it does.

[Luthor]

STG - Add to the small number of 7b successes so far. Train better, not get injured. Stay psyched.

Mon - Nothing

Tues - Bouldered at the Works. Spent the session trying some of the yellow circuit problems. Managed a couple but failed on a lot more. Felt bit disheartened after, think more volume on slightly less intensity would have been better use of time.

Wed - Routes in furnace room at the Foundry. Felt like climbing on plastic started to click again after several weeks not being able to train much. Enjoyed the session and felt like a good workout.

Thurs - Quick lunchtime session at the Works. Warmed up then climbed on the comp wall.

Fri - Rest as planning to get out to Peak next day.

Sat - Tried and failed to find dry rock Saturday morning with Barratt. Gutted as was well keen. Ended up at works and did the purple circuit.

Sun - Rest

Better week training wise - starting to feel fitter so hopefully can ramp things up a bit now. Might even slot in a beastmaker sess this week... Hoping its dry next Saturday!!

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

M: nowt
T: Depot - good session
W:
T:
F: Logport wall
S:
Su: Logport wall

a week on plastic...  nuff said.

[nai]

M - fingerboard & pullups, didn't feel great, 2nd day on so maybe that's why.
tw - nowt
T - fingerboard & 1armers - felt good, time to up the intensity of the hangs a bit I think.
F - Stanage - great day with an old mucker.  Easy trad above a fantastic inversion.  Did little new but lots of classics not repeated for a loong time

ss - nowt

slow week but a good day out on Friday.

[tommytwotone]

STG - 7b by end of '10

M - Nowt, cooked dinner for the missus and me
T - 10k in eve
W - Board session, did a fair bit but low psyche
T - Nowt, unless dancing at Leftfield gig counts
F - Depot session, awful - experimented with forcing self to open-hand everything, only saving grace one of the easy yellows
S - First Cliff session of the season, usual circuit including a bit of DWR progress and finally did Gypsy (but didn't top out as it was raining), then went out for dinner and vino in the eve
S - Dusted off Abbey Dash 10k in new PB of 47:00

Not a great week climbing-wise, but ended well with today's performance in the run. Focus definitely back on climbing strength next week.

[aly]

A mixed week, could have been worse I suppose.

LLTG: 7C and proper 8a
MTG: sort finger out and get back to some semblace of real climbing, one armer and front lever

Mon: Run, 3.8 miles, feeling good.
Tues: Black Rocks bouldering, sent a load of easyish warm up stuff I've not done before but spent all afternoon being millimeters short of the pocket on that groove thing by Non-Stick Vicar.  Finger not feeling too bad.
Weds: Went to Stoke wall for the first time since I spannered my finger.  Feeling a bit better, even taped it up and managed to do a couple of (the easiest) problems on the moon board, that made it hurt though.
Thurs: Run, 3.8 miles, feeling like I was about to die.  Quick pull up session after, not getting any nearer to the one armer
Fri:  Brief fingerboard session, felt OK.
Sat: NW Slate, did some old classics, things actually feeling quite easy for some reason, super day finishing in the dark.
Sun: Damp in the hills, quick play at Parisellas on way home, finger just about held up and I climbed everything I've ever been able to do there before, but in the dark this time so not that bad a session.

[Barratt]

Goal: 7b

The list of injuries:

* Pulled muscle in back
* tweaked hamstring (I think) in left leg heel hooking
* shoulder still fooked
* cut finger tip
* and a sever case of weakness due to all of the above!

Tues: stagage to look at zippys traverse and (through recommendation) captain hook. The latter in particular being of future interest. Hamstring felt a bit rough after. Went to works for an easy workout.

Friday: test shoulder with 30, yes 30 press ups... Power club, the shame.

Sat: works, purple circuit

Sun: have spare hour in am so look at comp wall at works, I can't climb anything above 6b+. I'm equally not bothered and bothered by this. Ride round derwent with mrs barratt.

I'm not giving in...   

[i_a_coops]

STG: Train like a bastard, no getting outdoors for a couple of weeks I suspect. 
MTG: 7C, 8a, 7C+ on sandstone this winter.

M - Trad at the Roaches. I like scaring myself shitless too much to do lots of trad and not break my legs, so I think I'll give it a rest for a bit. Also grit slabs never got anyone strong! still, 3 ticking 3 E4s and an E5 in a day was good for my ego!
T
W Bar & Doorframe Routine (TM)
T Bar & Doorframe Routine (TM)
F
S Stanage Plantation. Fell off the easy last move of Captain Hook as it was getting dark, NNFN
S Cratcliffe/RHS. Did a 5+ slab with no hands in an attempt to imitate Jacob. Got frustrated on Big Al Quaeda. Was going well on T-Crack but ran out of skin, blood everywhere. NNFN!

Left myself a lot of unfinished business this weekend, probably won't make it back to the Peak for another couple of weeks unfortunately. Time to get strong on plastic!

[Falling Down]

Short report this week due to phone typing.

M: Long day to London and back. Headtorch run with dog pm.
T: early morning gym. 5k row (20 mins) then barbell routine. 5 reps each of 30kg OH squat, 40kg front squat, 125 kg deadlift, 50 kg bench. Then 30/30 OH push press at 2x20 kg DBfor 4 rounds. 10 min row to finish. Walk pm.
W: Aberdeen.
T: Aberdeen. 100 pressups
Fri: Walk am. Run pm
Sat: DIY all day. Then 10 min row then 2k row for time (7:25). Then 2x 20 kg KB routine (TGU's, snatch, OH press, swings, rows) Then 1-10 Burpee ladder. Then 10 min row
Sun: 10 min row. Foot on fingerboard routine for 30 mins. Then 1 hour bouldering at Gib Tor until I ripped a flapper so came home. Weighted pullups progression to a PB @ 60 kg, then 30 mins foot on fingerboard.

Not much climbing opportunity this week and a really hectic work schedule.  Drank too much but got 7 hrs sleep each night and 10 hrs each night at weekend.

Hopefully get outside climbing this week...

Weight: 79kg flat.

[joeisidle]

STG- Climb a font 7a that isn't a steep crimpfest
MTG- Climb font 7b by the end of 2011

Monday- Moon wall session, mainly messed about, making a new font 6c+ project and failing on a few older 6cs, still gave the fingers a good going over though, so a decent session I suppose. Did some small sets of 3 finger pullups on the small campus rungs and messed about on circuit problems to finish. Did a few pushups.
Tuesday- Rest
Wednesday- Messed around on a wide variety of font 6s, trying to pick out nice sloper, pinch and pocket problems for a change (ie. stuff that wasn't crimps). Managed a pockety 6c+ that I'd been trying for a couple of sessions on the barrel which I was pretty chuffed with.
Thursday- Rest
Friday- Went to creation but played about on sloper problems in the rest of the centre in the hope of working weaknesses, Went back to the moon wall at the end of the session and managed my 6c+ project which was nice, but felt too tired to complete anything else afterwards. Also felt strangely inflexible. Ho-hum
Saturday- Went to my home centre and did my usual routine there of pottering about on anything 6b and under. Thanks to the lovely holds they have there though I managed to pretty much stick entirely to slopey pinches for the session, so yay for working weaknesses and that. Also did some pushups and eat too much chocolate.
Sunday- Panicked about essays and eat too much chocolate.

[duncan]

STG: resume training, avoid re-injury
MTG: 7b rp; E5 os

M-W: Red Rocks Trad. classics (Black Orpheus, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Crimson Chrysalis etc.)
T: Las Vegas sightseeing
F: more classics
S: Introduced host in LV to climbing....it rained!!
S: Travel to UK (ongoing)

Fabulous trip to Red Rocks.  Nothing hard accomplished but it was just great to be on long routes on real rock with the sun on my back with good company on and off the rocks.  Must return.

[Muenchener]

STG: Reduce the yawning gap between my slab & steep leading grades - currently topping out at (soft) 6c and 6a respectively - by putting another couple of layers on my SCC pyramid for steeps and avoiding the temptation to fart about on slabs when I should be getting pumped. Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
MTG: 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Bike to work 28 km
T: Bouldering Thalkirchen. Haven't bouldered here since June, when a red circuit problem was a multi-day project. Today I did three of them in one to three goes each. This would appear to be a sign of progress (or of softer problem setting).
Had a go on a rolllybar. New STG: ONE rollybar pullup!
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Did some routes. Was ok. Not very motivated.
T: yoga
F:
S: Bodyweight stuff: core & shoulder strength/stabilisation. Lifted into a tucked planche momentarily with hands flat on the floor, yyfy. Usually need to resort to paralettes or blocks for extra clearance.
S: Bouldering Thalkirchen. Mostly spotting my son (investment in the Rope Gun for my old age!), but also managed another red circuit problem second go, and flailed at a finishing hold on the next harder (green) circuit - never got close to one of those before. And a rollybar pullup!

Diet: a catastrophe at the moment. Way too much consumption of grain- and yeast-based products. I fear I have taken Dave MacLeod's views on replenishing glycogen after training too much to heart (and/or mistakenly interpreted them to include weissbier).

Next week: wife away on business trip for three days, self away on business trip two days. Involuntary Active Rest Week - probably won't do any harm.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

Busy week family wise.

M-  Work, wine, sore knee.
T-  Work, wine, sore knee.
W-  Raining on my only afternoon free, so ended up at West View.  Rubbish session, and ended up with tender skin, but it broke up the recent inactivity.
T- Work, wine, sore knee.
F-  Work, wine, sore knee.
S-  Slightly marred by redent rain/ morning mist.  Ended up in the Farleton area.  Did a 7a+ that I've always thought impossible, then failed on Surfer Rosa.  Met someone for the first time in years at Trowbarrow.  Hole in right index finger.
S-  Blob sitting, an hour at Lower Montcliffe to entertain the BLobs/ RGinns.  Did Dinosaur Adventure 3D in less than ideal conditions and cleaned some of the turf from the top of it.

Monday weigh in of 84.9kg. 

Time to get my lazy fat arse in gear.

[Fatboy]

STG: Climb multiple 6b problems (consistantly)
MTG: Climb 6c project Chillax (Glendalough, Co. Wicklow, Ireland)

M: Rest, healthy dinner of steamed veg and grilled chicken.
T: Session down at the wall - tried slopey traverse, same sticking point (stamina).
W: 7-a-side football, cardio. Felt a lot fitter, not as out of breath as quickly or for as long.
T: Session at the wall. Tried lots of different old projects to mix things up - wrist was sore and felt tweaky.
F: Out for Reel Rock Tour in Trinity College, Dublin and out for pints afterwards - great films.
S: Rest day and out in the evening - new local steak house sampled - AWESOME!!
S: Rest day, very chilled with roast beef dinner!

Comments: Not much new done, some good progression down at the wall but no climbing outside due to busy weekend/rainy weather. Physio appointment booked for Monday 22/11/2010 to get wrist checked out as it hasn't improved greatly. I can definitely feel strength and fitness coming back which is fab!

[Plattsy]

Climb something hard (for me) before I leave Sydney (late Jan).
M - Weights.
T - Bouldered
W - Nowt
T - Weights
F - Nowt
S - Soloed some easy stuff at Lindfield. Lovelly introduction to Sydney sandstone.
S - 2k row (7:55), weights, bouldered and a bit of campussing

[chris05]

STG: 7A (probably cave RH at RHS) by xmas

M: 4m run, pull-ups, press-ups, core (430) and weights.
T: rest
W: 4m run, pull-ups, press-ups & core (430)
T: 4m run, pull-ups, press-ups, core (430)
F: rest
S: pull-ups, press-ups, core (430)
S: rest

Didn't expect to get much done this week due to an infected finger, loads on at work and my mum visiting over the weekend. This week is likely to be similar, just hoping to get a good couple of weeks before xmas to get the 7A polished off.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As before.

M: Boulder @ Burbage - Weather was too good so thought I'd go tick what I fell off the top of on Saturday.. Staring the top in the face a monentary lapse of concentration (and possibly a little sweat) caused the poor right hand to pop leaving me with a tasty flapper.. Game over!
T: 4x4 sessions with Simon - Realised how routes (un)fit I really am -  Only successfully managed 13.5 routes (inc warmups) and thought I was going to throw up more than once...  Ended up not being able to hold jugs!
W: Thought I'd feel terrible but recovered pretty well..
T: Bouldering @ The Works - Wasp circuit, did loads.... Pint.
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Nowt

Did a bit at the beginning of the week and life (and shite weather) got in the way for the last part. Good to get back on indoor routes and really interesting to see how bad my stamina (fitness etc.) really is... Time to work those weaknesses!

This week: Routes Tue, boulder Thus, Notrhumberland Fri to Sun (weather depending)..

:D 

[nik at work]

(V?)LTG: 8b+, 8B
STG: 8a+

M-S - Nothing
S - Short board session

Still struggling with finger/wrist injury on right hand which is limiting crimp/open hand strength a bit, having a more significant effect on contact strength and means I can't use two finger pockets at all. Frustrating. Definitely feeling an urge to get on some grit routes this season though which could be fun/interesting/exciting/foolish/eventful/bad/good.

[cheque]

STG: E1 & V5 on grit this winter
MTG: E1 on big crags, F7a sport next summer

M: Wake up with painful/ swollen/ stiff neck.
T: Nothing. Neck still sore. Regular climbing partner (and most reliable lift) breaks his foot. 
W: Nothing. Still more neck pain.
T: Yoga class. Shifts last of weekend's pain, like it always seems to.
F: Swiss ball core.
S: No lift all weekend, so head indoors. Local wall's bouldering is now fairly decent: climb lots of steep stuff.
S: More steep indoor bouldering. Improvement since Saturday!

I've come on loads on steep climbing in the last month, which I'm really pleased with: climbing roughly the same grade on all angles now. Partners incapacitation is a downer. All about January driving test now!

[iain]

I actually did some training last week  First proper week for at least 2 months

STG: Umm, ok so how long can I have a short term goal for? Being trying to finish State of Play (7c+) since May/June but timing and conditions haven't worked. It's still a goal but probably not till it warms up a bit now given how close it is to sea level. Other stg's are more quick ticks of 7b+'s and some as quick as possible 7c's given that I haven't done one in over a year now.
MTG: State of Play and Total Seizure (both 7c+) by March
LTG: Freaky Ralph and Infinite Gravity

Mon: Wall session, good quality over quantity and stopped before too knackered
Tues: Another quality wall session
Wed: rest
Thurs: Fort Purbrook for a change. Had a good session and did some benchmarking on problems I know. Definitely lost a fair bit but actually not too bad which was encouraging. Was vaguely trying to d something once a week over the last wee while and it seems to have paid off.
Fri: rest
Sat: Good social climbing and despite being utterly baltic managed to drag myself up Twangy Pearl (7b) which I'd been spanked on a few weeks back. Felt good
Sun: One of those busy round the house days where you get to the end and can't figure out exactly what you've achieved.

[andybfreeman]

Winter training goals/party tricks - one armer + 1-4-7 on the hanging campus board @ TCA
Winter climbing goals - 7B or higher in the forest. Super psyched to get back on onde du choc + try magic bus. get out to dartmoor, up to the peak and northwales as much as possible. tick list long and ambitious!

M - rest my achey body and trashed skin
T - circuits session at TCA. Retro flashed blue 7a ish circuit on steep board - first time since before i went to Oz 
W - first board session for ages. Went better than expected and reignited the board psyche
Th - mixed session at TCA did a bit of circuits work then got distracted by new problems on the woody. Did monos from standing but the sitter felt nails
F - rest
Sa - TCA comp. did better than expected 500/528. Only got beaten by 4 pints by Jim which was miles better than I'd expected. I'm treating this a s a base lien on which to measure indoor gains over the rest of the winter.
Su - last minute trip to portland for bouldering. Knackered from yesterday so did nothing new but had fun pottering around doing easy problems.

[chris_j_s]

Mostly still resting my broken finger but had my first climbing session back on on Sunday. Short, easy routes session trying to avoid crimpy holds - 6a+, 6b, 6b+ x 5.

Found it hard to find routes entirely avoiding small crimps but I seemed to be able to just use front two on those (I rarely use a front two grip so presumably that will be good for me as long as I don't break them as well!). Had one scary moment when I accidentally found myself crimping hard out of habit on my bad finger but managed to re-adjust it on the verge of something bad happening.

So, the worrysome first post injury session dispatched with no recurrence and hopefully it will improve session to session from hereon in.

[Nibile]

mon - beast. volume. 5x6 pullups, 8 different holds; 10"x6 hangs, two different holds.
tue - rest. much needed.
wed - beast. max two armed dead hangs, 10"x6, 7 different holds.
thu - wall. tired. fingery stuff.
fri - rest.
sat - rest.
sun - rest.

 

[205Chris]

STGs (this winter): Highball the old-school E5s of Tierdrop, Suavito, Art of White Hat Wearing, Chip Shop Brawl & Sole Power.

MTG (next summer): 8a sport route.

M: Nowt
T: Beastmaker session
W: Out for a Friend's birthday, managed to cram in 30 mins on beastmaker though.
T: Nowt
F: Burbage North - Went to look at Blind Date but it was far too warm for me to stick the sloper (although someone else did it while I was there so not sure I can use this as a legitimate excuse). Had a quick look at the Terrace & Jason's Roof which are all on the winter ticklist. Managed to salvage something by doing All quiet direct.
S: Catch up with a few friends and recover from Friday nights  activities.
S: Went looking for some dry rock. Wound up at RHS. Did the 7a slab thing next to the classic arete which I'd never been able to even pull onto before. Tried Big Al Qaeda but I just can't seem to get my right foot to work in the foot lock. It starts raining. Go home and have a board session instead.

Bit of a disappointing week really as didn't manage much training or climbing outdoors. Hoping to get another one of the highball list ticked before christmas.

[petejh]

Goal - do my first VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 8a, 7C, E5.
Goal for November: headpoint My Piano, work High Life.

m. nowt.
t. Indi, social sesh, lots of probs.
w. nowt.
t. Indi. Felt uncoordinated and couldn't move well. Ended up having a good beastmaker sesh instead. slopey 2 finger pocket, mid 2 RH, sloper LH into mid 2 LH for first time since injury.
f. White Goods. Good day, did three new route 2nd ascents and should have done Tumble but got complacent.
s. Holyhead Mountain. Nice sunny day. Penny and a few others.
s. Indi. PE sesh. 4x4 turned into 7 x 4 on V2 +3. First time PE in ages, my weakness.

Started working the finger harder, thoughts of MP returning. Trying to juggle PE for winter mixed, finger strength for MP crux and bouldering strength (v.poor at mo) for Highlife. Unlikely to do Highlife this year but will keep trying once finger is good enough.