the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
resources: Training (Coaches, books and web articles)
erm, sam:
Good idea!
The 2nd of the rockclimbing.com links doesn't appear to work though..
Wipey Why:
http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm
Lots of training goodness here
shark:
--- Quote from: ypy on November 22, 2010, 09:00:22 pm ---http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm
Lots of training goodness here
--- End quote ---
:-\
This is Horst's commercial site. I think the links I have made above to his less commercial site more than fairly represents his output. If you aren't aware Horst has attracted a lot of criticism for proposing many things as fact that dont stand up to serious scrutiny. He is a good salesman but the jury is out on much of his SCIENCE.
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Keep them coming.
Falling Down:
Some pieces from the public Gym Jones website that are appropriate. Yes, Gym Jones is a commercial venture and focused on strength and conditioning as opposed to climbing/sport specific training but there is a lot of very good material available.
Some things worth pondering when it comes to training.
1 The mind is primary
2 Outcome-based training (train for an objective)
3 Functional training (high degree of transferability)
4 Movements not muscles (transferable training does not isolate muscles)
5 Power-to-weight ratio (you must carry the engine)
6 Train all energy systems (emphasize the important but not at the expense of others)
7 Training is preparation for the real thing (train FOR something)
8 The mind is primary II (confidence, chemicals, carriage)
9 Nutrition is the foundation (eat for an objective)
10 Recovery is more than 50% of the proces
Some articles worth chewing over....
Hard Work http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=37
Why fitness is important http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=5
Remake Remodel http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=40 note: this is not about training oneself into injury territory
Quality (or doing shit properly) http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=20
There's more at http://www.gymjones.com/
Enjoy
curly ben:
does anyone have the OTE/climb ? Steve Mcclure training articles/series from a few years back. Remember a good one on 'recruitment'/warm up.... also would be interested in the power endurance article if anyone has it.
Thanks
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