[reeve]

As part of a larger plan, I'm thinking of heading to Australia in their winter. I'm primarily interested in climbing at Arapilies and on Taipan wall.
Despite having spoken to people who've been, reading guides and looking at climate charts, the opinion seems fairly split between those who think it'll be fine and those who think it'll be pretty limited by the weather.
Anyone have any opinion to add?
Cheers

[The Sausage]

Hi Reeve,
More than happy to chat to you... it's a tricky decision. I've had some of my best times down there in June/July (but I wasn't camping). The problem is that it's very cold in the shade, but can be too hot in the sun. It's basically a desert. There's no doubt that you get some great climbing conditions, but camping is quite hard work - the days are quite short and it can be pretty frosty overnight. Taipan will be well chilly before the sun comes round (early arvo), but prob not enough daylight to wait until it's in the sun before getting started.
If you went with someone, and were both psyched, it would be great. It can be difficult to find partners (at that time of year) though. I'm not sure what the Nati scene is like at the moment (in terms of psyche). They're a friendly bunch and I could give you some contacts. You might even get a room, which would make life much easier.
See you out and about (or down the wall) soon

[DaveC]

A little warning that July/August in Victoria can be rather wet as well as a bit on the chilly side (well relatively speaking.) This year rainfall was back to more normal levels (or higher) after a prolonged drought (10 years +) and July/August would have been pretty crappy at both the 'Piles and in the Grampians for much of the winter. Feel free to contact me if you need any help/info (residing near Melbourne these days.)

[The Sausage]

p.s. If it was me (and if possible) I'd get there in the spring or autumn. It's so far away, and the climbing is so good that it seems a bit silly not to try and get optimal conditions. Don't listen to anybody who talks arapiles down: It's AMAZING. They probably got their arses kicked. It's hard and old school. There aren't many give aways. It takes a bit of getting into, but for proper on-sighting it's ace: physical, technical, unnerving and under-graded! (well, compared with the Blue Mountains & Nowra).

Araps has such a rich history too, and a few of the early pioneers are still make appearances or live in Nati- Mike Law, Glenn Tempest, The Shepherds, Chris Piesker - there are a lot of great stories to go with a lot of great routes.

[reeve]

Cheers both for your prompt replies. I've started re-thinking my plan so it could accommodate Australia in March / April '12 instead. Speak to you about it when next see you at the wall Joe, if that's alright.
Thanks again.

[danm]

March/April sounds pretty good to me. I turned up in Arapiles in the middle of Feb and it was 40 degrees with bush fires visible on the horizon. The temps eased off over the next  month, and by the time I had to leave in the middle of March it felt pretty much optimal. Mind you, I wasn't doing anything hard.

Christ, you've made me want to go back!

[Carnage]

March/April aren't bad but it can still be very hot. I've been in the Gramps at that time and temps have been in the 30's.
Optimal time for me has always been May/early June as it seems to offer prolonged periods of cooler dry weather and blue skies. I always plan a bouldering trip for this time and this year the temps were 17-20 everyday with a low of 8 or 9 early on. Whilst you might have roped aspirations, bring a pad and get hold of a copy of Webby's new Gramps bouldering guide.

http://www.grampiansbouldering.com/

The bouldering is stellar and one of the best areas in the world (imho). Far too good to miss out on. If you don't want to slum it in the Pines or Stapylton campgrounds, consider Mt Zero lodges which are a 10 min drive away from Mt Zero car park (for Taipan). These offer a very cost effective alternative, esp if you can rustle up 3 or 4 people to share with.
http://www.mtzerologcabins.com.au/

[The Sausage]

Now then. Despite having done nothing but boulder for the past few years, I wouldn't bother taking a pad. There's SO MUCH to do at Araps alone. I'm sure you'll hook up with people bouldering, so you can land on their pads if you really fancy it. I reckon you'll love the older Araps routes (the 23s, 24s, 25s & 26s) - They're unforgiving, often a bit scary but rarely serious.

I'll be more than happy to chat about it (I'll try not to do a Tony Whitehouse on you!) I've got some good pics too.

I'll dig out my guides as I'm sure I've forgotton lots of routes.

See you, joe

[Carnage]

I agree that if you just going to spend time at Araps, its prob not worth lugging a pad but if you're in the Gramps, you'd be mad not to take one. There's no guarantee you'll find anyone else to scrounge a pad off , esp midweek, so to travel all that way and not be equipped would be crazy.

[chriss]

I'm with Carnage you would have to be mental not to sample the Grampians bouldering, if you are going all that way & posting on UKB.

I found the Araps pretty busy, you could always blag a pad there as there were a few for sale. The Gramps although a million times better than the Araps was generally pretty dead aside from a few school groups.

Personally I say Grampians any day, but then my feet start to shake when I get 2 feet above gear.

[reeve]

Thanks for all the further advice, Danm, Carnage and Chriss.

I'm with Carnage you would have to be mental not to sample the Grampians bouldering, if you are going all that way & posting on UKB.

Don't be fooled by me posting here Chriss, I'm much more a router than a boulderer really. Doubt I'd take a pad with me but if the bouldering is that good then I'm sure I'll make the effort to befriend someone with a mat.

Thanks again.

[SA Chris]

From the few punterish routes I did at Mount Stapylton, the climbing is superb. I actually preferred the rock to Arapiles.

Navarre is possibly one of the most enjoyable pitches I have ever climbed. Combine it with the funky runnel of Spillway, and then rap down and do Sweet dreams.

[T_B]

There's now a cafe in Natimuk, run by Simon Mentz and ex-pat, Steve Bell

http://whipper.com.au/2010/04/nati-cafe-do-believe-the-hype/