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UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov) (Read 22180 times)

GCW

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#25 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 11:49:04 am
Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Do charity 10k in under 55 minutes

Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

Had the old Man visiting this week, so limited time.  He seems to act as a good luck charm when he gets dragged out though

M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Dragged the Old Man out to the Kebs, having only a 45 minute session.  Managed the 7b right of Out Of Sight, by the skin of my teeth.  A minor YYFY.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Putting together cupboards and Blob sitting.
S-  Charity 10k, entertaining off road/hill course.  Knee still crap and failed to hit the 55 minute target- managed 56:32.  3 pints of Peroni with pub tea.

Monday weigh in of 86.1kg, I'd like to think it's muscle but I'm not that delusional.  Yet. 

Luthor

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#26 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 11:51:33 am

 Is Lark the 6c vertical problem that goes through Jerry's Traverse?


Yep! - nice moves. Landing feels a bit dodgy as you are above the edge of the block on the right hand side of Jerry's traverse. Ok with a spotter though.

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#27 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 12:02:47 pm
STG: 7A (cave RH at RHS)
Will re-assess goals once I get this ticked.

M: rest
T: 4m run, pull-ups, press-ups, core (430) & BM (90 foot on moves and max hangs)
W:4m run, pull-ups, press-ups, core (430) & BM (90 foot on moves and max hangs)
T: rest
F: nothing
S: bouldering at RHS
S: nothing

Bit of a rubbish week, fitness and climbing wise, had loads on at work. I was fully focused on finishing off the cave at RHS, and should have but couldn't quite get the link before my skin was screwed. Annoying as I wont be there again for a while but good reason to focus on training for a couple of weeks.

cheque

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#28 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 12:34:19 pm
M-Feels like I need to rest to lose weird back pain.
T- Indoor wall. The steep leading wall is now up, so plenty of pumpy fun on that. Pull-up comp with mate after.
W-Arms sore. rest.
T-Yoga. Really feels like it's done me good.
F-More rest.
S- Great weather but no lift: even more rest.
S- Roaches/ Ramshaw bouldering with mates who've never been before.

All the resting seems to have done me good this week. Very close to a problem that's quite hard for me on Sunday despite consciously not aiming for a hard day at all. Actually felt like a competent boulderer! Progress at steep climbing is tangible :bounce: looking forward to a lot of training on the steep wall indoors this winter.

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#29 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 01:39:27 pm
STG: E3, boulder 7a+, be in reasonable shape for adventuring in morocco at xmas
MTG: E4, 7b+
LTG: E7, 8a

Mon: nowt
Tues: good long wall session
Wed: glendasan. v. cold Do a nice 6a, try some cool projects and fail on the second most sandbagged 6b in wicklow. good fun.
Thurs: Can't remember, maybe fingerboard
Fri: zilch
Sat: indoor bouldering session. came close to getting a 7a+ in a few goes before strength failed.
Sun: Nothing climbing related.

T'would appear i've come down with the affliction of cat-man-flu (combo of manflu and cat allergy). Hopefully will be well enough for some cold weather trad this week and a bouldering comp at the weekend.

iain

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#30 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 02:29:04 pm
Another slow week, but things are looking up. Persuaded my lovely wife that we need a professional to lay the new floor cause the old floorboards aren't even close to flat and I'll just fuck it up

This means that after 2 months I've now got time back for both training and climbing, a very psyche inducing yyfy :thumbsup:

Had one session at the wall last week to keep ticking over, and managed a session today already. Roll on the weekend.

even after only 5 pints.

 :o Only. Five. Pints.

I don't know whether to wad or punter you for that, I'm such a lightweight I get a hangover after 2.

Mon: OAP attempts (now fairly solid from 90°)
:thumbsup:
« Last Edit: November 15, 2010, 02:36:00 pm by iain »

andybfreeman

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#31 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 03:16:27 pm
STG - run faster to stand still AKA get back to the level of fitness and power I had at the beginning of October, pre-Oz and eye surgery.
MTG - a few good ticks in 4 days in font in Dec (will depend on wether as much as anything).
LTG - boulder 7C and sport 8a consistently

M - Th - Nowt as still on enforced rest post eye surgery
Fr - ended up in pub after work and ended evening far more  :pissed: than planned!
Sa - 2 sessions at TCA. Started day very hungover so started easy by doing the 40 problem black circuit in the morning. Felt OK, only fell of one but only cos I'd misread it but still more tiring than I'd hoped/allowed for! Went back after the F1 qualifying and did most of the 40 problem green circuit. A good day in terms of volume but it did highlight how much snap I've lost during the last 2 weeks sat on my arse. That combined with the PE i lost while in OZ has left me feeling a bit weak and feeble but I'm so psyched to be back in training hopefully i can make back what I've lost pretty quickly.
Su - watched the grand prix then headed back to TCA for an afternoon session. OK session considering how knackered i was from Saturday's exertions.

Weight up to 69/70 after 2 weeks inactivity. Not too bad considering that food was one of my few distractions from how frustrating it was not being able to climb. Will keep an eye but expect to get back to 67ish pretty soon which'll do nicely for now.

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#32 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 04:49:31 pm
STG- Climb a slopey font 7a on grit
MTG- Climb font 7b by the end of 2011

Mon-  Rest
Tues- Rest/some pushups
Wed- Rest/some pushups
Thurs- Moon wall session, did a new 6cish thing and felt strong in some areas but was struggling to keep tension on the slopey kickboard footholds, but this may be in part due to the build up of polish on them. Also messed around on some sloper problems in the rest of the centre and did some pullups on slopey crimps. Pushups
Fri- Rest
Saturday- Day out at Churnet. Had a mixed bag and didn't get up anything hard and new but got a good volume of repeating old problems and working new ones. Played about on Ousal Low for a bit but got stumped by the end section (unless I just need to be able to pull MUCH harder on pebbly crimps :shrug:) and worked Cottaging with some friends, finally figuring out how to do the first few moves. Yay, progress!
Sunday- Rest/ panicking about essays

Andy B

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#33 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 05:19:44 pm
Whereabouts is The Kid?

It is the right hand of the two problems at the left end of the Grizzley Arete boulder.

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#34 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 15, 2010, 06:21:28 pm
Goal - do my first VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 8a, 7C, E5.
Goal for November: headpoint My Piano, work High Life.

m. nowt.
t. Indi, lots of probs. Finger feeling stronger.
w. can't remember
t. nowt
f. Indi, fingerboard sesh, two finger first joint pocket on RH, sloper on LH. Pretty good.
s. Pen Trwyn, a couple of E2's and 3's.
s. Melted brain adjusting documents for 6 hours and then tried bouldering, a very poor session.

Quiet week again, finger's still healing up and I can't get on MP until it's better or it'll fuck it up for longer. Treading water, just.

chris_j_s

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#35 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 16, 2010, 02:19:15 pm
Nowt for me last week while I give my finger a chance to begin the healing process. Looking to get going again this week so hope I can avoid the temptation to pull (crimp) too hard initially.

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#36 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 16, 2010, 07:31:37 pm
Mon.rockcity felt battered from yesterdays efforts.just repeated stuff.
Tue. nowt.
Wed.rockcity.power endurance 18 moves into a problem. 3x v6 3xv5 pumped stupid.wine.
Thu.leeds wall climbed ok to start went down hill fast although i managed to repeat the harder stuff i'd before.bought some new pants to make up for lack of performance.
Fri.wine.
Sat.baslow walnut to start repeated whip me.wandered around looking at other stuff tried some things with little success.went to froggat did jet pack 5th go and did first third of pea crab shuffle.pretty pleased with these.
Sun.bike 21/2 hours 3x25 press ups.walked for 11/2 hours with the missus.






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#37 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 16, 2010, 10:50:26 pm
Whereabouts is The Kid?

It is the right hand of the two problems at the left end of the Grizzley Arete boulder.

Cheers Andy.

duncan

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#38 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 17, 2010, 03:29:21 am
3 weeks off Power Club due to elbow niggles. 

STG: get over elbow niggles
MTG: onsight E5 by 6/11; rp 7b by 3/11

M - transatlantic flight
T - conferencing
W- conferencing - shoulder stability stuff
T - conferencing
F - conferencing
S - drove to Red Rocks. Very easy trad. - elbow sore
S - easy trad. - elbow much less sore

Great to feel the curative power of real rock. 
« Last Edit: November 17, 2010, 03:38:25 am by duncan »

shark

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#39 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 17, 2010, 09:49:15 am
3 weeks off Power Club due to elbow niggles. 
STG: get over elbow niggles

Duncan Disorderly reckons that cranking out loads of dwarf press-ups after sessions (press-ups on his knees with feet off the ground on fists - knuckles pointing towards each other) saw off his elbow problems. He said he got this from Drew Haigh who apparently does 3 sets of 40.   

Plattsy

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#40 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 17, 2010, 10:07:46 am
No real goals but thought I'd get back into the swing of things.

M - First monday at work for over 6 months. Didn't like it one bit. Bought tickets for SGC test.  :bounce:
T - Weights
W- Wall session - met Carnage - Felt weak and blamed the heat.
T - Weights
F - Card school and too much booze  :beer1:
S - Recovery
S - Recovery, hate two day hangovers.  :thumbsdown:

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#41 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 08:14:04 am
Sat: cratcliffe & rhs. Warm up on some easier stuff then try The Kid, get it second go. Also get the Lark at Cratcliffe.

Whereabouts is The Kid? I can't see it in the guide. Is Lark the 6c vertical problem that goes through Jerry's Traverse?

Up and left as you are looking at kaluza klein... its slightly hidden by a small boulder in front, but it should be obvious enough.

nai

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#42 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 09:17:05 am

knuckles pointing towards each other)
[/quote]

that feels nasty, are you sure?

shark

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#43 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 09:43:45 am
Quote
knuckles pointing towards each other)

that feels nasty, are you sure?

I wouldnt do it on a hard surface but its fine on carpet - most of your weight is taken on your knees. Duncan does them on a bouldering mat but he's a wuss. To be clear you are resting on the base of your fingers ie between the 2nd and 3rd joints. As far as I can determine this exercise is a clever way to reduce the load and stresses of normal press-ups so you can do more reps.

nai

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#44 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 01:57:37 pm
so the backs of your hands are facing each other?

My shoulders don't like that but with hands in a more normal position so that thumbs are facing each other it feels ok

shark

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#45 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 03:29:18 pm
so the backs of your hands are facing each other?

No  :wall:

As you described it - thumbs pointing towards each other



webbo

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#46 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 03:55:31 pm
wouldit be polite to mention this is called power club and you two are discussing the finer points of pressups on your knees.

robertostallioni

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#47 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 04:00:12 pm
Would you guys go for the old Rosa Muscosa, an old garden moss rose  to finish of the below display or perhaps something a little more modern, Japanese Ikebana perhaps?


shark

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#48 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 04:20:10 pm

Reminds me of this misunderstanding
« Last Edit: November 18, 2010, 04:37:55 pm by shark »

GCW

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#49 Re: UKB Power Club Week 39 (8th -14th Nov)
November 18, 2010, 06:59:38 pm
That was about a week before GCW gave up on UKC.  I wonder why  :lol:

 

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