[shark]

Weight 11.6-7

UnAttainable goal: To be on the cool list

M.
T.
W. Attempted DB and Core session but strained shoulder. Eve. Physio
T.
F. Eve. Belaying
S. 40min jog around Higgar/ Millstone   
S. PM. Belaying

Did random core exercises. Bought a Swiss ball thing. Would have been good to potter on the grit this weekend. *sigh*

[tomtom]

Nothing. 
Worst two week spell for ages.

I sent my cheque off to @lagerstarfish industries (inc) (tm) and I still can't climb 8a.   

[i_a_coops]

STG: 7c+ (DONE), more 7c+s, 8a, 7C, Brad Pit
MTG: Secret Cabaret/Jihadi/Threadbare as soon as they stop seeping next year, 7C+ on sandstone this winter.

M
T     much needed redpointing practice, lots of routes indoors. Feeling route fit for once.
W    more indoor routes! Did a 7a on my 9th attempt. Oh dear.
T     front levers and pressups.
F     
S     Secret Cabaret was soaking (unsurprisingly), so got involved with another 7c+ (FA Bob Hickish so hopefully not too soft touch! Difficult to tell as I'm a lot stronger/fitter than I was and it really suited me). Abbed down it to put the clips in and see if I could hang the holds, dogged up it to see if I could move between the holds, then crushed it with a savage grace. Celebrated with sloe gin. YYFY!

S     I hate lasers. I really hate lasers.

I think I'll struggle to find a route project for this winter unfortunately, as it can't seep and I don't like Portland much, which pretty much rules everything out.... if I can get back to Cheddar though there's an 8a+ that's still dry, and since it's Cheddar this probably means it's really 8a.

Am I right in thinking peak limestone is mostly wet atm?

If none of that works it's grit bouldering time

[joeisidle]

STG- Climb font 7a outside of the cave- done!
New STG- Climb a slopey font 7a on grit
MTG- Climb font 7b by the end of 2011

Monday- Rest
Tuesday- Went to Gardoms and played on Mark's Roof LH which went down reasonably quickly to tick my first (soft) grit 7a, YYFY!. However, it did suit me down to the ground (yay for steep ground and positive crimps!) and wasn't exactly typical grit which I need to learn to be better on. Pushups
Wednesday- Wall session. Did a new 6c on the steep overhang and tried various (mainly pockety) things and felt a bit battered by the time the session was over.
Thursday- Rest
Friday- Moon wall session. Did a new hard problem which was quite nice but didn't feel as fresh as I would have liked. Did some pullups on slopey crimps to finish.
Saturday- Rest
Sunday- Despite a need for a second rest day couldn't resist a offered place in a car to wales. Ended up at the cromlech boulders and played around on various things (mainly V5 traverses) but didn't get close to anything significant. Still, money in the bank I guess, but I need two (hell, maybe even three) days rest.

[IS2]

STG Establish weekly routine on the board !! Become strong again....
MTG 1. Enjoy the grit through to March / April keen to go get back to Widdop and other esoteric places in the deep south.
LTG.  Retire, get strong and really fit and do good stuff across the globe.

Mon Finger board, squats and stretching
Tues Finger board, squats and stretching
Wed Confront the board... not good !! pathetically weak but began systems on pockets.
Thurs Food and drink with the wife..
Fri Berghouse wall. Had forgotten how good it was!! Different game to the coloured circuits on the new walls ... but an awesome facility for building up a portfolio or circuit of progressively harder problems !!
Sat Shiatsu ... and body felt in need of treatment after last night ... everything hurts... the perils of over enthusiasm !!
Sun Armscliff with energy draining whinging squad !! Still some good progress, even closer to LT project, despite still suffering from Fri night. ( need to stop avoiding the board !! )

[Luthor]

No climbing during week as still recovering from tonsillitis, but got a couple of climbs done in peak at weekend.

Sat - cratcliffe/robin hoods stride. Felt quite weak but managed to do cave right (finally!) and made some progress on t-crack. Got sequence for top now so hopefully next time..

Sun - curbur. nipped out to meet Barratt and Will and to retry early doors now its a bit colder. Managed to get it first go today :-)

Hopefully get a few wall sessions in this week.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Sub 2 Hour Half Marathon (done)

LTG:  Font 7b by 2011

M - Depot session, mileage as was shattered after being punished over the weekend by combination of Fantasy League (Sat) and 10k run (Sun)
T - Cellar board session, still goosed and sore but psyche was high and had a great session
W - Sport session at Harrogate, on borrowed time but climbed bizarrely well
T - Rest, big dinner and a glass or two of rouge
F - Nowt, went to Ikea
S - Woodhouse Scar, good little venue and got a decent amount of stuff done, inc Piton Crack which was a highball / light
S - Nowt, lazy lunch in country boozer

[robertostallioni]

STG: Sub 2 Hour Half Marathon (done)

Sounds spurious to me. If you can't prove this I will struggle to believe Thursday's dinner was "big" or that your Friday evening was spent in Ikea.
We need proof dammit.

T - Rest, big dinner and a glass or two of rouge
F - Nowt, went to Ikea

[tommytwotone]

STG: Sub 2 Hour Half Marathon (done)

Sounds spurious to me. If you can't prove this I will struggle to believe Thursday's dinner was "big" or that your Friday evening was spent in Ikea.
We need proof dammit.

T - Rest, big dinner and a glass or two of rouge
F - Nowt, went to Ikea

Read it and weep big boy...



A pretty respectable 9,327th place...

[robertostallioni]

Ok, ok. So you did go to Ikea.

[Muenchener]

STG: 6b rp. Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
MTG: 6b os
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M-W: Half term. In the hills with my son & friends, walking etc.

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. The good:  flashed a 6a+; fell off everything I didn't get up. Generally I don't fall enough. Less good: third go on my 6b project felt hopeless. I assume there is more to redpoint tactics than trying ground-up and repeatedly being out of gas at the crux? At least I fell off it properly.

T: Bouldering: coaching session at office gym. Very good. What I learned: I climb too statically. How to get my hips more in under overhangs. How to initiate egyptian reaches from the hip. That bouldering in a group is fun - bouldering has almost always been something I do when I don't have a climbing partner.

F: Bouldering, High East. I seem to be more or less back with bouldering where I was pre-injury in the summer: font 6a in one to three goes. And this at a venue where the bouldering - mostly big overhangs on big holds - doesn't at all play to my "strengths" in climbing (inasmuch as I have some). So good.

Three days on at my age? Yes, because: family & social commitments the other four days, so taking advantage of a few days family-free in between.

S-S: Away in the hills again for a friend's birthday celebration.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Got a charity 10k next weekend, would have liked a sub-55 time.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

A week away getting Blob 1 confident on new bike, and eating/drinknig lots.

M-  CentreParcs with family Lank.
T-  Ran 3 miles in 18:45 (assuming distance accurate).  Knee not too bad.
W-  Ran 3 miles in 18:15.  Knee hurts.  Made worse by breast stroke.
T- Eating and drinking.
F-  Ditto.
S-  Crap afternoon at the Kebs.  Failed on the usual things.  Played with new tripod.
S-  Putting cupboards together.

Monday weigh in of 85.2kg. 

Feel crap today, full of the aching joints.  And the weather is gash.  Not looking good for the aims 

[Fatboy]

STG: Climb multiple 6b problems (consistantly)
MTG: Climb 6c project Chillax (Glendalough, Co. Wicklow, Ireland)

M: Climbed at wall, felt good. After warm up started a slopey traverse problem, could get a couple of the moves in isolation.
T: Climbed at wall, felt good. Warmed up and tried slopey traverse project, no further progress.
W: Cardio - 5-a-side football and stretching afterwards. Ran for most of game and was tired afterwards.
T: Climbed at wall, felt strong. Very short session, half warmed up then left to consume 2 pints of Guinness.
F: Ate out and drank wine. Reasonably healthy and early night.
S: Ate healthy, couple of beers.
S: Lots of walking for jobs, climbing at wall. Warmed up and worked slopey project, lots of progress and have first half linked. Steak and sweet potato fries for dinner, early night.

Good week and felt stronger as the week went on, culminating in a great session on Sunday. Managed to stay well rested.

[nai]

stg - WSS
Season goals - 7C, E4
m
t
W - poor fingerboard session, felt dreadful
t
F - good fb session, felt strrrooooong
S- Day 9 on WSS, a fellow suiter said he kept thinking I'd done it and was surprised to see me back on the pads.
S- Day 10 - came even closer, went off the boil a bit, had a rest then did it.       
I'm sure most of the valley heard when I latched that break, massive thanks to everyone that came scampering across from The Nose, etc to spot the top out, which went much smoother than expected. 
Downside is I have about 50 recordings of my attempts, guess which one I accidentally deleted? 

Good week obviously

[chris05]

M-W: Ill so no activity, getting through work was hard enough. An uncharitable 'friend' suggested that this may be some kind of retribution for enjoying 2 weeks in indo.   
T: pull-ups, press-ups, beastmaker, 90 foot on moves to warm up and then good session of max hangs
F: rest
S: bouldering at RHS, had a good session on the cave RH, should have done it but was too tired to link, should go next session. + 8m trail run
S: bouldering at churnet, pathetic session as I'd gone through 3 tips the previous day and most muslces were aching

[Barratt]

Coldy horribleness put a stop to training, just one session down the works - and that was a bit rubbish.

Sunday trip to Curbar was great, such a nice day to be out. Fail on Sidetrack (just need to get the hand position change sorted) followed by success on Early Doors - very nice problem and one i've wanted for a while.

All good...

Think its the injection/scan this week - anyone know what the score is after a cortisone injection, rest needed or just carry on?

[chris05]

Coldy horribleness put a stop to training, just one session down the works - and that was a bit rubbish.

Sunday trip to Curbar was great, such a nice day to be out. Fail on Sidetrack (just need to get the hand position change sorted) followed by success on Early Doors - very nice problem and one i've wanted for a while.

All good...

Think its the injection/scan this week - anyone know what the score is after a cortisone injection, rest needed or just carry on?

Where's the injection to? I've heard for elbows at least its really important to build up slowly and carefully after the injection otherwise it'll do no good. I'm sure someone will be along with more specific info.

[nik at work]

Big fat fuck all, still feeling a bit shitty. Bugger...


Oh yeah:
8b+, 8B

STG - Buck my fucking ideas up.

[aly]

STG - go climbing again
new STG - be able to climb anywhere near what I was without finger hurting
LLTG - 7C and 8a

small improvements keep helping though

Mon - running (~40 mins) pull ups and quick fingerboard session
Tues - nothing (well skiing, which is bloody knackering but nothing else)
Weds - few pull ups, attempting one armer and front lever.  Nowhere near, but not making backwards progress at least
Thurs - run (30 mins) and fingerboard session
Fri - run (40 mins) and quick pull up session (attempt front lever again)
Sat - nothing apart from an hours steep walk
Sun - first proper climbing in nearly a month.  Lots of easy, finger friendly solos at Slipstones and managed 6b (technical weirdness so no pulling involved) - could be worse.

[tomtom]

Big trad sea-cliff first ascent adventure scheduled for next weekend. Not sure how to train ... perhaps should get the children to drop rocks on my head?

Get them to vomit on you as well for that full seabird experience...

[Nibile]

decent week.
mon - beast. one arm dead hangs on 20°, big rung (+10 kg), 35°, front 3 small pocket. two armed dead hangs on small rungs, back 3 and front 3. all 6 sets each.
tue - wall. a couple of hours repeating old problems using only one foot at the time.
wed - beast. excellent session of pull ups on 20°, big rung, 35°, mid 2, front 2 small, mid 2 small. dead hangs on small monos (front levers), back 2, small rung back 3 and front 3. pat on the back.
thu - rest.
fri - rest.
sat - bouldering. good day out in Sasso, repeated a few 7a+ and fell twice on the last move of Lourdes 7c+. chuffed!!!
sun - rest.

comments. must learn something from this week. past I trained only once (the tuesday mega 4 hours session on the wall), then rested three days and the saturday I was shit. I think that I have to train more often to feel good.
keep da fucking faith.

[andybfreeman]

A week of no climbing or training of any description. Still in enforced rest mode after laser eye surgery Sat 30 October 

Despite the frustration of not being able to train I am hugely pleased with the results. I was already well within driving standards at the 7 day check up and my vision has fgot better and sharper every day since.

Back to training next weekend so will have 2 days to report next week. That gives me 28 days training before Font so it'll be less structured than I'd hoped but will include some supplementary finger boarding as well as a focus on power at the wall to get me in the best condition possible

[Johnny Brown]

Great week:

M: Headpointing
T: Nestchucking
W: Headpointing and Nestchucking
T: Rest
F: Consolidation
S: Headpointing
S: Fish. And a rice cake.

[andy popp]

Welcome to the dark side. Feels good, doesn't it?

[cheque]

STG: E1s on grit this season.
MTG: similar on big cliffs next year.
LTG: to have people demanding to be shown videos of my ascents instead of demanding not to.

M: Swiss ball core
T: Lead all the routes at the local wall without a single fall (sounds more impressive than it is, but I'm still pleased)
W: Swiss ball core
T: Ankle feels rubbish. Swiss ball wobbling has exacerbated a tweak from the weekend. Rest.
F: Rest
S: Tegness quarries. Really good views from the top, climbing really well. STG easily in sight.
S: Weird back pain appears overnight. Rest.