Firstly what is wrong with asking a few questions? Sponsors should be the first to do this, if you sponsor a liar your company looks a bit shit.
Percy has got a bit off a barracking here of people that are uniformed and speaking purely out of the confidence of ignorance (obviously the likes of Doyle couldn't be better informed really).
So Action, I've belayed a few people on this route now for a long time (last 3 years). And have seen alot of people on it first hand (Felix knaub, Manuel Brunn (sp?) Fabi, jonas baumann, Andre (strong polish peast)). I was even lucky enough to be there when Adam pustelnik did it.
From belaying Ben and Ryan on it i have seen them both do bigger links than simpson in obsession, with Ryan doing it in 2 save for the clip in the middle (which was often wet) And Ben almost doing it in 2 around the mono. Both of them looked as solid if not more solid than simpson when they were on it. And Pustelnik looked a whole other level above that (total legend), infact his warm up involved doing the route in 2 like it was pretty easy. Watching pustelnik on the route was amazing seeing how hard he had to try. Manuel Brunn is also able to lap the route save for the initial jump (simpsons sequence is whack only windisch uses one similar and he hasn't done it yet (even though I've seen Windisch do moves i could only dream of)) If Ryan or Ben had snuck out on me when i had been belaying them alot i'd feel a bit miffed, but then they didn't because they're mates, they'd certainly have told me the name and where abouts of who bleayed them. And like i say both got very close but didn't do it. (i can go on about Jonas being a beast on it etc but i hope my point is made.
Edited footage is just that 8b climbers can do all the moves on this route (i know a few) and leaving your mates on the day of your ascent when they are there making a film about you climbing it (whilst youve been falling off the route ALOT and making alot of audible excuses in previous days) and when you havent been that close (or even had a half decent redpoint from the floor
) i saw felix fall on the last moves and he hasnt done it yet).
Adding all that up on the worlds most famous route is it not ok to say, hey rich can you name your belayer (preferably someone of sound mind and body who is known to other climbers) and let your company get in touch, especially when your photo is in the guide book on it.
Ditto for Liquid, Hubble, Ascents in Buoux (i have aussie mates who were on this trip who have previously expressed similar doubts and disappointment for not being with rich on the day of the send.
As for his grit ascents they were pretty fast and ground breaking in style. I can see why no one would be there (not like you need a belayer on careless) but why claim to have a video of things like careless and not show it? (its enough of a ball ache to turn your camera on and off repeatedly, so if you have footage you'd show someone)
I used to fully believe rich and be a big fan (he was almost up there with malc mcclure and gaskins etc) then he started claiming things like a sub 4 min mile and sub 2.30 marathon. I flat out think this is bollocks. My unkle mike is a semi professional runner (profile here http://www.thepowerof10.info/athletes/profile.aspx?athleteid=3835
) whilst his power of 10 is incomplete you can see he's pretty fast for an old man. in his hayday he could run sub 2.30 marathons. I know how much training he does and how skinny and light he is. To say you've done these things in running and have no proof (UKC thread on this was genius) whilst spelling the name of the stadium wrong where you supposedly ran your 4 minute mile in IN A RACE and having no record is taking the fucking piss. Runners dont stand for that, they have Omega timing and results for a reason. Science.
In climbing we just have rosey eyed faith. I don't know enough about boxing to comment (so i wont) and if you put huber under the brandler hasse ropeless after practice and simpson with a rope (slower!) after doing the route once, and told me to put 400 quid on who'd top out first i know who i'd back.
I'm happy to believe his climbing claims with a bit of proof, it'd take a lot of proof for the running ones (like an offical results sheet from an independent party with his name and time on, god they're hard to come by arent they after you've raced!!), 10 years of watching my uncle in local and national races has taught me that much.
Doing your a levels isn't that hard chris! my sister got 4A/ stars (and a B in an extra one) and went to cambridge and got a first (you could say she was pretty motivated) but she struggles to do a 10km under 50minutes with her little wobble legs (she can hang a 15mm campus rung nay bother but she doesn't claim to have climbed the worlds most famous route without a credible witness) basically its unrelated, Its an awesome effort getting into top level academia but it is a world away from professional sporting claims.
I know several climbers who make rich look weak on a board, especially Leo when he's on top form
, and even on pockets. people have done 1 armers off 1 pad monos infront of my friends eyes. but they haven't claimed an unbelievable (no pun intended) polysport ticklist ever amassed without a single bit of uncut footage or definite belayers on the actual ascent.
Its a bit disrespectful to top end climbers and peers (especially in the running world) to say you are above questioning (aka a scientific mind) and that you must have Faith and faith alone. Only in climbing can you do this and i'd like to be one who asks for some proof. In a nice way.
(if anyone wants to seriously question any of my ascents btw feel free, just state the climb and ascent style i've claimed)
I did unfamiliar ground up last weekend in really thick mist so you couldnt film, no video just photos, oh fuck ryan pasquill belayed me and nige kershaw was there. Err i did queen kong with no witnesses 5.5 years ago after recovering from pneumonia (pretty unlikely!!) oh fuck i went back 2 days later and did it with springer and got a full vid for the county.
ok enough. if you dont know all the names on that action list consider yourself fairly uninformed about the route and its recent history.
i'd prefer to be hustled and humiliated than lied too.
Good effort to scarpa and wild country for DOING THEIR JOB and trying to make sure they're credible.
Cheers Dan Varian.