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Melancholie - LPT (Read 2663 times)

Ally Smith

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Melancholie - LPT
October 26, 2010, 05:19:19 pm
Had a quick play on Melancholie on sunday.

I sussed out the lower section up to the undercuts with help from Matt. However the middle section got me stumped.

How do you get from the undercuts to the hold below the eygptian move?

Using a crimp out right from the obvious chalked side-pull/undercut seemed most logical, but left me very stretched out to move feet to then match the hold to start the eygptian from.

nodder

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#1 Re: Melancholie - LPT
October 26, 2010, 05:50:14 pm
Lets see how doylo does it, if i can make it work...



Doylo

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#2 Re: Melancholie - LPT
October 27, 2010, 08:45:27 pm
I not sure what you mean by the 'Egyptian'. There are two methods to get the long hold that you match on before crossing over to small crimp, out right to pinchy hold, etc... You can either get the fossilly crimpy sidepull (that's often wet) left and up of the undercuts with your right or your left. To get it as a backhand with your left use the small crimp above the undercuts with your right put right heel on lower sidepull and span out with your left. Then sort your feet go over with your right to intermediate then go again to the hold and match. To get it with your right use a smaller but still positive underut out left of the main undercuts and come over with your right into the sidepull. Use the intermediate with your left this time and go again with your left. I think its got slightly trickier since i did it as the hold you match on is quite slick and polished now as everyone uses it on Bad Boy after the traverse.

 

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