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The Prince, Plantation (Read 3997 times)

willk

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The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 07:11:29 pm
This is the flat wall high up the terrace up and right of the Wall End buttress at plantation. Just wondering what peoples thoughts were on grade and quality.
Did it yesterday, after a lot of messing about, and seemed quite tough for 7a (V6 in BMC guide). Thought it was a quality problem that's not in the current peak bouldering guide for some reason.

cofe

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#1 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 08:01:26 pm
Wasn't really a known problem when the last bouldering guide was put together. It's good though. 7a is fair.

Sloper

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#2 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 08:11:28 pm
Is this the one by the descent path with the long reach?  If so I think it's bit of a sandbag.

willk

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#3 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 08:27:13 pm
Yep, part of the edge high up. Goes of an undercut to pebbles and very poor break before top.

grimer

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#4 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 08:47:35 pm
Oh yeah, I graded that. I was down in Hathersage with a telescope and a ruler.

Sloper

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#5 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 08:50:35 pm
Is that why you went for V grades then, if you'd used binoculars Font grades would have been the result. (work out the joke for yourselves).


Barratt

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#6 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 10:24:02 pm
Seemed stiff at 7a  :shrug:

No disputing the quality of the problem though, very good.




Ru

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#7 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 10:28:39 pm
Oh yeah, I graded that. I was down in Hathersage with a telescope and a ruler.

I don't bother with a ruler.

GCW

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grimer

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#9 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 25, 2010, 11:15:01 pm
Things like The Prince are interesting. You have consensus grades, where people generally agree, say, Trackside at 7A; then you have problems that have only been climbed a few times, like Solomon's Seal, where the grade has yet to be fully agreed upon.

Then you have things like The Prince that, by the time it goes in a guidebook, has never been climbed. In which case you have no disagreement. Which is the same as consensus.

So you're back at square one. Stood in hathersage with a telescope wondering where your ruler is.

Jim

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#10 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 26, 2010, 07:44:32 am
If this is the problem I think it is then I would say its definately  harder than 7a but I can see why people with long arms (Like Cofe) would think that 7a would be fair.

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#11 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 26, 2010, 08:45:16 am
I seem to remember lurching for something high up, and being scared as the mats started to look more like a sledge than a safe landing! As it's a wall and we're using font grades, I guess it has to be compared to similar problems in font. It's certainly easier than any of the 7A walls I've tried at 95.2 for example!

Barratt

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#12 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 26, 2010, 11:47:16 am
Think Will was comparing to AQ Direct...

SA Chris

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#13 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 26, 2010, 12:59:25 pm
Stood in hathersage with a telescope wondering where your ruler is.

I'm right here, viewing all my subjects with disdain.

Norton Sharley

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#14 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 26, 2010, 03:20:47 pm
I seem to remember lurching for something high up, and being scared as the mats started to look more like a sledge than a safe landing! As it's a wall and we're using font grades, I guess it has to be compared to similar problems in font. It's certainly easier than any of the 7A walls I've tried at 95.2 for example!

I tried this after doing Bunny Wailer and failed to reach the shit holds so gave up because the pads do indeed look like they'd act like a sledge. If you put some effort in, or could reach the shit rather than non-existent, holds it would be easier than anything at 95.2 let alone the 7a walls.  So applying Grimer and Ru's grading system it is probably around V6 and only a good problem if either you've done it or are trying to sell a guidebook  ;).  Do Bunny Wailer instead.  Or Satin.

grimer

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#15 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 26, 2010, 03:56:55 pm
Exactly!

Barratt

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#16 Re: The Prince, Plantation
October 26, 2010, 04:13:43 pm
Having taken a trip from the top I can confirm your Sledge theory, no lasting harm done.

PS I'm a tiny 5.10 and could easily reach the poor break line?

 

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