[shark]

As part of a training programme I have the next 2 weeks off but Ive noticed it is described as a conditioning phase. I had been nurturing the idea that drinking fine wines and going for a couple of jogs would be sufficient but I suspect that won't be the best prep for the winter training onslaught. So what is conditioning all about? And what volume and type of exercise would be optimal ?. Light dumbell systems work, jogging, pressups, yoga, swimming 

[stevej]

As far as I know, conditioning should be hard and brutal beasting sessions so you're quick to recover, slow to tire and hard as nails. Think tyre flipping rather than yoga. Not sure how climbing-specific you'd want it to be, spending a period of time doing hill-sprints and burpees will probably have a fairly positive effect on conditioning, especially if it's during finger/elbow rest in a structured programme (whereas the Stevie Haston Thousand Pullups Regime ™ isn't exactly rest)

clicky

[chris_j_s]

I could very well be wrong here so feel free to ignore me but as described in that link 'conditioning' is essentially endurance work, in the same way that we climbers would differentiate our strength/PE/stamina work? These will no doubt be covered in Simon's training plan for the coming weeks.

I think what we might be talking about here is pre-conditioning, which I think is primarily concerned with preparing your body for the training cycles to come. The overriding aim appears to be injury prevention and to that end you should be looking at what injuries you've suffered and could potentially suffer and create an exercise regime which reduces the risk of them recurring.

The main thrust appears to be sport specific eccentric exercises and the article linked above makes an interesting suggestion that...

There is much evidence to suggest that one bout of eccentric exercise will ‘inoculate’ against further eccentric muscular damage caused by the same activity for a period of up to six weeks afterwards

There are plenty of people on here who are better placed to suggest what exercises you might include but presumably you'll want some work on your back as it seems to have caused you lots of problems previously and also I'd be tempted to look at the usual eccentric exercises for injury prevention in elbows and shoulders.

I'm sure a bit of aerobic fitness would be worthwhile so you could keep the jogging, although I'm sure it takes a lot longer than 2 weeks to see gains in aerobic fitness - depends a bit on what your base level of fitness is at the moment???

[Falling Down]

Ask your coach? 

Does he mean two weeks off climbing or two weeks off?. If it's the latter then it's two full weeks off doing nada apart from gentle walks, swimming (if you're a good swimmer - if you're not then it's not rest) and maybe the odd run or gentle row.   If you are getting ready for an intensive period of training then two weeks off will do you some good, particularly as you've been climbing non-stop for a few months....

[slackline]

Maybe your coach thinks you need to sort your hair out?

[Norton Sharley]

Conditioning is what comes after the shampoo phase.  Generally us middle aged blokes don't go in for conditioning because we have either lost all our hair, can't be bothered what it looks like, or go for the middle ground of a number 3.  If however you still have a full head of hair then it may be that the coniditioning phase, as one approaches the slippery slope of middle age towards old age, may be necessary to prevent what hair is left from going grey.  Perhaps your coach is trying to gently suggest that the latter is the case and that you should sort out your image?  I'd pop the cheeky fucker on the nose if I were you.

[shark]

Hi Chris

Yes pre-conditioning would be a better tag. Regarding my back problems I think - touch wood - they are well on the way to being corrected - final physio session tomorrow.

I think dumbell complexes and a bit of jogging will fit the bill ..and keep me occupied. I will run it by Tom who set the programme when I see him later.

[Ru]

I always thought conditioning was to prepare your body for training - ie basic strength and endurance work. Cardio, gym, bodyweight exercises, that sort of thing. When my sister in law used to do gymnastics as a kid their "conditioning" was hundreds of press ups/pullups etc.

[shark]

Yes I'm confused too - hence the post. Maybe its a generic terms for training to be in a generally good physical condition for a  subsequent phase of more intensive or specific work and so has multiple applications across different sports.

 

[Fiend]

Maybe your coach thinks you need to sort your hair out?

He does 

[Falling Down]

So Shark, what did your uncool coach have to say?

[mrjonathanr]

Use this?

[shark]

So Shark, what did your uncool coach have to say?

He agreed some core and DB work would fit the bill nicely.

Unfortunately on my second set yesterday I strained my left shoulder.
 

[webbo]

you should have got yourself in condition before attempting the new routine.