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UKB Power Club Week35 (11th-17th Oct) (Read 12265 times)

Charles

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#25 Re: UKB Power Club Week35 (11th-17th Oct)
October 21, 2010, 10:54:05 am
Goals
STG: Onsight F7b [26 October]
MTG: Redpoint F7c+ (Angel Heart @ Troller's Gill) [01 January]
         Boulder 7c+ (Red Baron Roof @ Shipley Glen) [01 January]
LTG: Onsight F7c (Comedy @ Kilnsey?) [30 September 2011]

The Week
Monday: Leeds Wall - sprained ankle meant I could only belay.
Tuesday: Rested Ankle.
Wednesday: Rested Ankle.
Thursday: Rested Ankle.
Friday: The Depot - felt springy but not strong or powerful. Kept backing off insecure moves as I didn't want to fall onto my ankle. It felt sore by the end of the session.
Saturday: Rested Ankle (but it felt pretty strong).
Sunday: Troller's Gill - Warmed up (with difficulty, very cold on fingers). Flashed a F6c+ and then onsighted Angel Heart F7a (or F7a+ depending on which guide you look in. I thought F7a.)

Ankle feels recovered and strong. Great to get some success before my trip to Spain on the 22nd. Hopefully if I pick my route well I might be in with a sniff of onsighting F7b. Think I'm going to plan to try at least one every day, regardless of form leading up to my attempt.

webbo

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#26 Re: UKB Power Club Week35 (11th-17th Oct)
October 21, 2010, 01:07:50 pm
Mon.nowt off work ill possibly suffering from one day man flu.
Tue.depot climbed shit
Wed. nowt
Thu.leeds wall still struggling abit did alot in the end though.40 problems.
Fri. day off.bike 3hrs.
Sat.bike 3 hrs.
Sun.curbar failed on lots.went to baslow(walnut) managed to fall in to a bilberry crevasse on the way.did the walnut traverse with the extra start and something that might have been whip me whip me.got woken up with horrendous cramp probably as a result of fitting my self in to the start of whip me.
 

k2ted

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#27 Re: UKB Power Club Week35 (11th-17th Oct)
October 21, 2010, 07:26:37 pm
tried resting lots this week as right ring pinkie A2 been bad since june. Seems to have worked as defo on the mend. Plan to cut down on crimpin n get strong open handed...

mon - rest
tues - rest
weds - rockover climbing, did stuff upto v4/v5. Finger taped/ mummyfied.
thurs - rest
fri - rest
sat - 2hr on 40' board - pretty gud, can now use open hand to top of board.
sun - 3hr walk around Llangollen hills...

 

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