[shark]

Goal: Bust a gut trying to onsight 7c at Arco
Weight: 11.4-5

M.
T. AM. Tor. Good conditions. Warm-up on Sardine. 2 goes up Crucifixion. Better than Sunday.
W.
T. AM. Tor. Good conditions. Warm-up on Sardine, then Tr'ed it clean. 2 goes up Crucifixion. Better than Tuesday.
F. Meant to train but couldnt face it. Eve. Drove to Langdale for family get together.
S. Raven Crag with Ben and Tom. Belayed by Ben outside for the first time. Did Revelation then Bilberry Butttress with them and soloed a couple of Severes. 
S. PM. Walk. Eve. Aerobic End circuits in the shed (in half an hour)

Arco next weekend so though Oak is dry no point going up there now. Will have another go at Crucfixion on Tuesday. Drank quite a lot this weekend. Great to do a multipitch route with the boys - opens up possibilities.

[Joe]

STG – (recovery from knee cap dislocation) Finger board sessions 3 times a week, back top roping/leading during November, December – climb F7a+ circuit at Gollum’s Cave, Bristol.
MTG – Climb F7b, (House Burning Down/Bitter and Twisted) on-sight F7a
LTG – Climb F7c, climb F8a within 3 years (from 6th September 2010)

M-F On GP placement, no climbing/training potential...
S - Finger board session - Focused on big holds and body excersises, core really is a weakness of mine.
S - Back leading! Came within 3 moves of onsighting a 7a indoors. Finger board when everyone else had left. Deadhangs on 45 sloper and then more core, front levers (as far as I can) and planks.

Feels really good to be back climbing, even though its only been 4 weeks! Felt good as well, although my knee is not fully normal by a long way. Some routes requiring high left foot placements became very awkward, had to find work arounds that weren't technically very sound. Still, 7a indoors ain't bad for me, so coming close to the onsight was cool. Apparently the route has a sting in the tail, so shouldn't celebrate too early... Anyway, thats one recovery point reached!

[chillax]

STG: Lead Onsight E3, boulder 7b, be able to do one armers again, learn to aid climb properly
MTG: E4, Go to Yosemite and don't completely punt it up
LTG: E7, 8a

Mon: Can't quite remember. Possibly fingerboard.
Tues: Dalkey. Fail to onsight a classic E2 I've been hankering after for a couple of years. Ah well, it'll go next time. Second an E3 and lead an E3 (technically a STG ticked, but it's the softest E3 around and I seconded it a couple of years ago so not the most satisfactory)
Wed: Dalkey. Several laps on a shunt of an E4 thats probably around french 6c+/7a. Used to feel nails, but pretty steady now. Work on a pretty terrifying future project. Beastmaker in the evening.
Thurs: Pullups and pushups
Fri: Nothing
Sat: Glendo. Several laps on a lot of the awkward/tricky classics up to 6b that I often find strangely hard. Some exploring above the crag.
Sun: Bouldering in Waterford. Got the local tour of a nice crag closer to my house than glendo. Slightly overhung, slopey, technical, powerful and skin friendly. And with an obvious undone traverse. Might spend a fair bit of time here depending on weather conditions (its tidal).

Things are starting to click again, and the psyche is slowly returning which is nice. It seems I need the slight extra buzz of exploration to stay interested, so will probably spend more time tramping the hills of wicklow in search of unclimbed rock this winter than I have done previously. Might be going on an aid climbing trip next easter in prep for yosemite next summer, so I don't look like a completely unprepared spazz when I get out there.

[i_a_coops]

Glad the knee's sorting itself out Joe.

STG: Threadbare, Secret Cabaret, 7b+ onsight, save up for a Beastmaker
MTG: Font 7C, 8a
LTG: 8a in a session, Loskot & 2 Smoking Barrels next year.

M     Routes. I dislike the climbing wall.
T      Beastmaker session, mostly back 2.
W     Ordered a pull-up bar
T      Power session, steep problems on edges a la Cabaret. Power is returning!
F       Feel like death. Think I tried too hard on Thursday. Pull-up bar arrived.
S       As Friday.
S       Stanage, bouldering. Deliverance delivered! YYFY! Also first real 7A flash. Got home, did some bar work (L hangs & assisted 1-armers)

Turns out I quite like grit bouldering  , must do some more. It does eat my skin though... Anyway, I've been very lax on running recently, must sort that out.

[nik at work]

8b+, 8B
STG: 8A at end of the month, possibly a new sport route next week??

M - short rubbish board session
T - brief play on project trad route
W - monster board session with G and Stallion, excellent.
T - sore
F - still beasted from Weds board session with G
S - longggggg day of family/friend stuff
S - lay on various boulders at Burbage North feeling tired

Good session on Weds and last weeks finger injury seems to be clearing nicely. Not totally happy with pre-Font preparation but certainly in better spirits for crush than last week. A bit of sport success in the coming week would set me up nicely for an end of the month Font crush 

[nai]

goals - 7C, E4 (8a)

M - back to WSS, further progress in refining/eliminating foot sequences after reaching 3rd sidepull.  Consolation tick of Small Is Beautiful which I've bottled the top of more times than I care to remember.
t
W - back on WSS but was knackered after kiddy sleep problems for a few consecutive nights, had no co-ordination, kept missing holds, first session of no progress.
t
F - rained off from Burbage just as I finished warming up.  Max hangs back at home, pleased to still be able to hang +18kg still despite it being 2wks+ since last time.
S - max hangs & weighted pullups.
s  - think I have a cold coming on

[Andy F]

Goals - Short term - Overnite, Zoolook, font 7B+
Long term - 8b, 7C.

Mon - rest
Tues - Repeaters, 40 mins
Wed - volume bouldering, ladders, touches
Thurs - Pull-ups
Fri - beer
Sat - family
Sun - Malham. Mint conditions, 2 good goes on Overnite (1st and 3rd), coming off between the last clip and the belay. 2nd go, a foot popped when moving R after the 4th clip, not pumped and feeling very good at that point. Excellent progress, should go soon.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

M: nada
T: Depot session... good work out..
W:
T: Ummed and ahed about weather - decided to leave it until friday
F: Got out in the afternoon with Falling Down to the Tor... A good session - thanks for showing me around/beta FD - as I've previoiusly been a bit too intimidated to know where to start. Surprised myself by doing Saline Drip, first lime 7A 
S: Train > London > Booze > Food > Booze
S: Food > Booze > Food > Train > Manchester

Seem to have just dropped below 75kg though..

[Barratt]

Few sessions down the works, one light go on the beastmaker.

[Falling Down]

STG: OS 2 E3's and Boulder Fb 7a+ by end Oct + Gym Jones Foundation seminar
MTG’s (End 2010) – Boulder Font 7b.
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6 drop weight to 11.5 st.

M - 2k row (7:30) + PE routine (20kg KB Snatch + Sprint x 5)
T - Road bike, 2 hours. Pullups.
W - 100 pressups (Beer after work)
T - Rest
F - Tor before dark with TomTom  , progress on Saline Drip and Too Hard for Mark Leach (Wine)
S - Upper Pen Trwyn. Flashed Confusion and tried to flash The Bloods but lost confidence.  Dogged it.
S - Easy walk for 2 hours, DIY then pub lunch and football watching (Beer)

Strange day on Saturday. Felt fine on Confusion but then totally lost confidence on the flash attempt on The Bloods. Didn't want to weight the rope, felt scared etc.  Pathetic really. With hindsight I think I got cold and that put the kibosh on anything.

This week: Back and forth to London.  Wall Tuesday for volume and some fall practice to get over Saturday.  Next Fri - Mon is the Gym Jones foundation seminar in London so I'll be beasted.

[duncan]

STG: More E3s, 6c os, survive Font. next weekend
MTG: E5 os (06/11), 7b rp (03/11)

M - The Arch - Bouldering
T - Shoulder stability stuff, core
W
T
F - Shoulder stability stuff, core
S
S - Shoulder stability stuff

Cold all week and tweaky elbow after ill-advised bouldering session on Monday.  Not the ideal run-up to Font. trip but I usually do OK on The Real Thing.

[Nibile]

good week.
mon - beastmaker. one arm dead hangs mostly on slopers.
tue - beastmaker. one arm dead hangs, slopers and rungs.
wed - beastmaker. two arms deadhangs on pockets and small rungs.
thu - rest.
fri - rest.
sat - sport climbing.
sun - beastmaker. one armers in supersets with bicep curl.

[shark]

Sat: lever attempts (actually thought i held the front lever briefly but video evidence just showed a misshapen middle-aged man flopping about unrigidly),

   Are you going to post this on Vimeo?

[rginns]

STG:get into a proper training regime / structure
MTG: Broughton 6a+, West View V6, Lancashire quarry font 7a
LTG: become a beast / 7b... and erm, all the above if I don't do 'em in the medium term...

M: Broughton, managed a 5c+, felt weak
T: Nothing, LCCC social,
W: an hour spent hacking across moorland to the Roaches, then 30 minutes failing on Staffordshire Flyer. Not a good session
T: Bolton Beer festival. Too many beers
F: Travelling
S:Away
S:busy

Pretty appalling week really, I feel like I've got virtually nothing done, but life is unbelievably busy that I barely have enough time to do the things I need to do never mind what I want to do...epic fail on starting the fingerboarding too. Psyche is low.

[petejh]

Goal - do my first VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 8a, 7C, E5.
Goal for October: headpoint My Piano, work High Life. Start the drytool fitness in preparation for winter.

m. Indi. Campussing: 13579 x 4 laps, 3 sets. Skin fucked on last set so didn't complete.
t. Sheep Pen boulering. Dog Shooter and played on The Pinch. Solo and not enough paddage for The pinch (for me).
w. Indi. campussing: 13579 x 4 laps, 3 sets. failing on 9 on 2nd laps of each set, 7 on third laps and 5 on fourth laps of each set.
t. Re-bolting on Diamond.
f. Pigeons Cave. Tried Stiff Upper Lip. Getting it and worked out a better way to do crux moves. Weak from having a bug. Excited to try it fresh. Quick play on Highlife in the Cave.
s. Re-bolting on Diamond.
s. Cave. Tried moves on Highlife. Felt like I had no body tension at all and couldn't hold the slap, then realised afterwards I was wearing loads of heavy work clothes, good training?

Getting to nesscliffe with a partner is proving to be at least E8 in itself. Want to get it over and done with then it's local all the way.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Doing a 10k charity run in November- be good to get under 55 minutes.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.


Unfortuntely a busy week at work and blob herding.

M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, Blob 2's nursery parents evening.  Beer and wine.
W-  round at Nik's for a WoB session and some silky demonstrations by the SexPest.  Beers.
T-  knackered.  Bed early.  No alcohol.
F-  work, then Blob sitting.  Wine.
S-  Blob herding.  Wine.
S-  Earl in the morning, made some progress on Sloping Beauty.  Afternoon at a local quarry failing to make progress on a project.  One beer with pub tea.

Monday weigh in of 84.0kg.  Need to get knee sorted if I have any hopes of acheiving any aims.

[aly]

Disasterous week which has probably scuppered all climbing until xmas at least.

Mon: nothing
Tues: Stoke wall, feeling good, did project on 45 + campusing which felt OK
Weds: bouldering and routing at Derby wall, feeling knackered and not climbing too well
Thurs: Churnet, easy problems and falling off traverse.  Got fed up with falling off due to mud-covered boots rather than any difficult moves and went home
Fri: nothing
Sat: NW Slate, got back into trad, feeling good until finger went 'crack' and went numb.  A2 probably.  gutted.
Sun: went for walk up Tryfan.

New MTG: take up running/skiing/drinking
New LTG: be able to climb something, anything.

[Luthor]

Still recovering from flu virus so no exercise again this week other than light bouldering session at works on Saturday.

Looking fwd to training again and getting out in the peak.

Lex

[Ru]

Not a bad week last week climbing wise:

M: zip
T: zip
W: routes at the wall. Think I did 8.
T: zip
F: bouldering at the wall.
S: Bowderstone for 3/4 hr before stag do.
S: Bowderstone for 3 hrs after stag do.

[205Chris]

STGs: Tear it up in font (again) the last week in October. Tick L'Aerodynamite.

MTGs: This winter: Grit bouldering - long list of peak 7b - 7cs and get to North Yorkshire more. Highball the old-school E5s of Tierdrop, Sauvito, Art of White Hat Wearing, Chip Shop Brawl & Sole Power.

LTGs: Something that starts with an 8.

M: Nada
T: White circuit at the works. Managed ~30 problems plus a few things on the comp wall.
W: Repeaters on Beastmaker.
T: Nada
F: Drove out to Burbage in the ridiculously optimistic hope it would be dry. It wasn't. Spend 2 hours at the works on the new wasp circuit.
S: Nada
S: Went to Higgar early doors hoping to bag sh!t. Turned out to be in the full glow of the sun and too warm. I did see a nice inversion over Hathersage though. Tried Flying Arete too but failed to stick the top hold. Sack it off to the Plantation for a circuit of old favourites plus a few things I'd not done before. Leave around lunchtime when a whole bunch of students show up.

Rest week this week ahead of font. Hoping for cooler temps than a few weeks ago when it was still reaching 20 degrees or so.

If anyone else is interested in sharing some pads / beta / psyche for the above list of highballs let me know.

[iain]

All week, nothing, nothing then more nothing. Gutted to be in working and diy'ing over the weekend with such amazing conditions 

It's getting sorted this week. Currently warming up for a gentle fingerboard session and it will continue dammit.

At least I have a freeish weekend and climbing to look forward to   

[iain]

(also excited to find I can lower down a few degrees from a one-arm lockoff then pull back up to the lock, though having never tried before I am not sure whether it's trivial or not ...)

That's a marker for me when it suddenly becomes a possibility. The few degrees gets steadily bigger ...

[Muenchener]

M: rest.
T: bike 25km
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Mileage evening on steady routes, although also 2nd go on my 6b redpoint project. Did all the moves. Need to get better at hanging big slopers on a slightly overhanging wall.
T: yoga
F: Bouldering: one hour lunchtime session in the gym at work
S: Wall, Gilching. Flashed a 6a, onsighted a 6a+ but am not counting it as stg reached because (a) slabby, (b) soft
S: Swimming with my son. "Active" rest (somewhat) involving minimal actual swimming.

Weight is creeping up due to complacency about being under 81kg in the summer. Now at 82+. Oops. Need to nip this in the bud.

[cheque]

STG: E1+ regularly on grit this winter
MTG: E1+ regularly on big routes next summer

M: Skipping. Getting easier.
T: Skipping, powerball.
W: Got swiss ball. Start first week of 10-week training plan with it. Some excerises feel desperate
T: Yoga
F: More skipping, more swiss ball. Hard ones feel more reasonable now.
S: Soaked at student-packed Birchen. End up in the Works doing 'wasp' circuit 'til no skin is left.
S: Sore. Family stuff.

Ongoing closure of local wall is getting frustrating, but making progress since last week. Writing this I've noticed that I didn't do any upper body training this week: stupid as this is my biggest weakness.

[IS2]

STG Font last week of October: Feel steady on highball 6's perhaps settle score on one or two outstanding 7a projects. ( Might be change of venue given strikes in France ... Sad .... junior will not get his Christmas presents delivered to his residence in Trois Pignons car parK !!! )
MTG Enjoy the grit through to March / April keen to go get back to Widdop and other esoteric places in the deep south.
LTG Retire, get really fit and do good stuff across the globe.

M Boulder session at St Marks on the "competition circuit" ( Massive heightist tantrum when stopped by monster span !!! )
T White circuit at Climb Newcastle, not too bad but harder probs felt impossible... then core session
W Board session and then off to London for food and drink / work
T Travel back "up North " work til 9.30 pm...
F Much wine and food to soothe pain of travel to the capital and talk of " cuts "!!
S Stretches and rests
S This year's first trip to Armscliffe .... not too much trauma!!  good circuit around the classics.  Very close to long term project ...