[shark]

Goal: Get onsight fit for Arco at end of month
Weight: 11.4-5 (+?)

M.
T. AM. Full of cold. Tried the Toilet. First working go knocked a foothold off on step left. First redpoint Got to gaston/last hard move first redpoint but couldnt hold it. Next go fingers slipped on flake on crux trav left. Went for a walk. 3rd go got it!!! (just).
W. Noon. Offset pullups.Aborted maximal deadhangs when tweaked a finger. Eve. Physio with eldest son to compare congenital back deformities.
T. Eve. Worked new aerobic endurance circuit on board
F. Went to the dogs. Guzzled unfine wine.
S. Judged a kids 'fun' comp. Mainly fun. Boys did brilliantly. 
S. AM. Tor. Warm. Reacquainted with Crucifixion. Went up twice and wore out skin.

At last seem to have got over cold but feel generally run down. Good to get the Toilet done but have regarded it as more of a training route. Added up days - probably 17 in total! Ouch. Began to get excited about Malham drying but not to be. Going to stick with Tor as Crucifixion should be good prep for longer routes at Middle Massone in Arco. Been lax with food and drink. 

[Luthor]

FAIL: Week spent in bed suffering/recovering from another bloody virus/flu infection

Gonna take a week or two before I can fully ramp it back up judging by how I feel now. Slowly, surely...

Lex

[nai]

2010 goals - 7C, E4 (8a)

M - after a quick lead of Sentinel and some warm bouldering sought shade out West and ended up trying WSS, held the third sidepull for the first time then couldn't remember how I did it.
t
W - returned to WSS and eventually worked out how to get the sidepull again.  Felt close but skin was getting thin on index finger, checked Friday's forecast - dry, cool and an easterly - easy decision, went home.
t -
F - bloody weather forecasts, waited in vain for the smeg to burn off, headed out around 3 to find it okish in the wind.  Consistently got the third sidepull but only sorted subsequent feet movements out late on by which time the index finger was touch and go again.  Above the break was pretty gopping anyway so couldn't have topped it out.
S - borrowed a kids bike trailer and took it out for the first time, 4 miles mostly flat, seemed ok.
S - 5 miles with the trailer around Ladybower, hills hard work esp off road but good fun.

Three sessions to effectively make a foot of progress but very interesting and enoyable nonetheless.  I'll be back for more tomorrow.

[duncan]

STG: More E3s and 6cs
MTG: E5 os and 7b rp

M - Arch gentle ARCing + Shoulder stability stuf
T
W - Arch more gentle ARCing
T
F
S
S - Cheddar - Coronation Street (1 hr 55 mins) with Mr Competent.

This was going to be the big N. Cornwall trad. weekend: partner, tides, weather and some fitness all in alignment.  Unfortunately I had a cold all week, never made it past Weston-super-mare, spent most Saturday in bed, and had a bumbly day at Cheddar on Sunday.  Coronation St. was fun, despite feeling as limp as a week-old lettuce. 

[aly]

STG: 7B+ bloc
MTG (this winter): 7C (yeah right!) and proper F8a

not much free time this week so it's all been indoors

Mon: 4th day on so did a power enduro session at the bouldering wall.  Circuits of between 30 and 70 moves (from about 30deg O/H to vertical traverses), did about 5 or 6 'circuits' with good rest inbetween.

Tues: nothing

Weds: Bouldering session indoors.  Concentrating on power, trying some crimpy stuff, mediocre session.  Getting very bored of the wall as have run out of problems to do, need to get to another wall more to keep motivated.

Thurs: Bouldering again, reasonable session on the 45deg board, and got the traverse on the 30deg board.  Finished with some good longer routes in the cave (~20-25 moves)

Fri: feeling tired.  Another power-enduro session, concentrating on climbing between 30 and 50 moves, up and down lots of problems.  Good session but felt utterly broken afterwards.

Sat & Sun: Nothing.  Civilian duties down south, shame as the weather was nice.

[Falling Down]

STG: OS 2 E3's and Boulder Fb 7a+ by end Oct & pass my Gym Jones seminar/course (Sub 7min 2k Row + various weight tests)
MTG’s (End 2010) – Boulder Font 7b.
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6 drop weight to 11.5 st.

M - KB and Fingerboard workout.  Max Hangs and weighted hangs (12kg)
T - Run. Eccles Pike hill run, up and down twice. 45 mins. Felt good.
W - Long day in London
T - P/E Progression 10 Pullups, 20 Swings, 30 Box Jumps, 40 Pressups, 50 Situps, 60 Burpees, 10 Pullups - 15:30 Tough!
F - Run - 45 minutes on road.
S - Parasella's: Split Traverse, Pillar Finish, Cave Righthand, Right Wall Traverse. (Quite a lot of Wine)
S - Raven Tor - Short session: Pinches, Boot Boys start, A Little Extra start (1 Beer)

Great week for training and climbing. First visit to Parasella's since '92 or '93 and was pleased to get a few ticks under my belt.  Very pleased with Raven Tor yesterday as I couldn't even hold the LH crimp on A Little Extra three weeks ago and yesterday it felt very straightforward and was pleased with Boot Boys. Also managed a couple of problems on the Pinches Wall that I've not done since '08.

This week: Try and take advantage of the dry weather... Aim to row 5k under 7mins.

[chris05]

M: 4m run, BM: warm up (3x30 hand moves), max hangs, warm down (3x30 hand moves) & core (400)
T: 10 x (10 pull-ups, 20 press-ups & 40 crunches)
W: 7m road and trail run, BM: warm up (3x30 hand moves), max hangs, warm down (3x30 hand moves) & core (450)
T: work piss-up
F: recovery from aformentioned do
S: bouldering at churnet
S: nothing

Good start to the week which then went down hill due to a works do and battling with the lurgy. I wont be posting for a couple of weeks as I'll be surfing my guts out in indo  (fingers crossed)

[nik at work]

8b+, 8B

STG: 8A in Font at the end of the month (8a+ in next two weeks)

M - nothing
T - nothing
W - Board session, quite low intensity.
T - wake up with bizzare finger and wirst pain, deeply concerned and grumpy.
F - finger/wrist still sore, very grumpy now.
S - finger and wrist still sore but a lot better, still a bit grumpy. Had a good session working a new route without major finger trouble, feel happier
S - finger still not right but much much better, happy now, spend the day driving between places being sociable.

Finger/wrist had the potential to be a complete disaster, two weeks pre-Font finger injuries are never happy moments but (touch wood) it seems to be OK. It's probably stopped me moving forward this week but I don't think it's set me back (fingers crossed).

[rginns]

STG:get into a proper training regime / structure
MTG: Broughton 6a+, West View V6, Lancashire quarry font 7a
LTG: become a beast / 7b... and erm, all the above if I don't do 'em in the medium term...

M: was out with customers in the evening although only 2 beers consumed.
T: At the inlaws, over-ate lots of food
W: Session at Nik's board - mostly failing on steep stuff, although I felt like I'm getting used to the angle more, each visit  feels a bit easier than the last in terms of actually staying on. Using holds other than the jugs...
T: out with the missus
F: Brief Roaches session, did a couple of 6as very quickly, then bumbled around on easy stuff
S: Watched the horse racing, lost all bets
S: nothing

Not too bad a week, managed to get out twice which at the moment is good. Was very pleased to get a couple of 6s done quickly on Friday especially as I was not feeling too good. Need to adjust my aims when I'm at the crag to 6b/c off the back of this I think. Generally feeling stronger than before being injured. I need to start thinking about how to maximise the opportunity when I do get out climbing though...
This week looks like I can only get out tonight, so could be a good opportunity to start on the finger board in the mornings...

[galpinos]

Been on holiday so have two weeks to post:

WE 03/10/10

STG:      Onsight more E2s, Redpoint 7b
MTG:      Onsight E3, tick more Font 7bs and a 7b+
LTG:       Font 7c, Onsight E5 & 7b, Redpoint 8a
Current Best:   Font 7b, Onsight E2 & 6c, Redpoint 7a+

M:   40 min run
T:   2 hrs down the wall. Played on the Beastmaker board with the new footholds.
W:   40 min run
T:   Bouldering at Cratcliffe. Didn’t tick anything new but got on T Crack (to sloper) and got on Jerry’s Traverse (Hard)
F:   Missus aced her PhD interview so got pissed. Started at lunchtime and finished late.
S:   Tradding at Burbage North. Did Knights Move and the wide VS crack to the left as warm ups for Now or Never and the Sentinel. Found Now or Never quite hard, took ages to commit to the crux move and ran out of time.
S:   Drove to Plymouth and got on Ferry to Spain

WE 10/10/10

M:   Arrive in Spain, drive to campsite, go surfing.
T:   Drive to different beach, go surfing. Lots beeter than yesterday.
W:   Wake up to rain and huge swell, too big for the beach we’re at. Do touristy stuff in local town then try to find a beach that works. Find one that does work but decide against going in as it’s very rocky and still well overhead. Drive to Picos de Europa.
T:   Go walking in the Picos in glorious sunshine.
F:   Drive back to coast. Go surfing. Best day’s surfing ever, actually manage to get up on the board at the top of a green wave and surf across it. Mint.
S:   Try to surf but very flat. Catch a couple of waves but nice just to be in the water. Drive to ferry.
S:   Arrive back in UK.

No real climbing gains but had an ace holiday!

[cheque]

STG: E1 regularly on grit before Christmas. Font 6c+ on grit before it gets too warm.

M- Bought skipping rope. Skipped like wanno, then pullups and pushups.
T- Planks.
W- Skipping then offset pullups and pushups.
T- Yoga.
F- Nothing.
S- Works. First time since May. Flashed virtualy all blacks and browns and lots of whites. Didn't feel too beasted after, either.
S- Physically assaulted by Chatsworth. Good offwidth practice but hardly a tickfest. Previous days exertions surely contributed to painful and rapidly-occuring pump.

Good progress made on weaknesses (everything but slabs) this week!   

[Barratt]

Few sessions down the works.

2 runs, one 3.5miles and the other 7 miles - furthest i've been for a while.

Plantation on Sunday - how warm!?

[chris05]

F:   Drive back to coast. Go surfing. Best day’s surfing ever, actually manage to get up on the board at the top of a green wave and surf across it. Mint.

Nice one, its a good feeling isn't it? Should be in the YYSFY thread. 

Now for some turns.... 

[Probes]

STG - tick as much as can on yorkshire whitestuff before the yr end.... 
MTG - Get power back up V??'s, and get hill fit for winter.
LLTG - Give up fags again, Another day in paradise, Brandl Hasse, Scot VII, Cry freedom

M - darwen tower straight up and down then round town 9.5km 68mins not bad but really hurt
T - boulder darwen (board) 3hrs, good session with spaniel n pete, power only.
W - west view, felt tiredish, no power left so opt for easy p.end training and footon campus.
T - band
F - gig
S - hells mouth surfing, 3 hours at dusk
S - hells mouth surfing, managed to drag my arse in at 8.00am with monster hangover, break at 10.30, out at 2.30. Absolutely goosed, well out of shape for surf. Really good conditions tho for mouth, upto about 4/5 foot clean, with sets 1 after the other.

back on the campus board this week hopefully.

[Nibile]

goals: font 8b, sport 8c (see blog).

mon - tue - wed - fri: beasmaker. one armers (4x5 sets), in supersets with bicep curl (7-10 reps).
thu - rest.
sat - rest. sun - amiata bouldering. crushed the project.

comments. this week marked the closure of a cycle that brought me from the spring injuries to climbing harder things again.
I have started a mini-cycle to be fit for Swizzy at the end of the month. last week was one armers, this week it will be max dead hangs, next week both.
KEEP THE FUCKING FAITH.

[Falling Down]

You crushed your project in Week 1??? Effort Nibs! 

[i_a_coops]

I've not posted in a while as 'did all these routes at this crag' isn't really worth it. However, this week, the hardcore training begins (cue Eye of the Tiger  ). I'll be back....

Thursday - indoor bouldering, 6 weeks of climbing on rock has left me WEAK!

Weekend - Portland, attempting to onsight/flash things.

What with all this climbing outdoors malarkey I'm going to have to upgrade some of my goals a little bit:

STG: Threadbare, Secret Cabaret, 7b+ onsight, save up for a Beastmaker
MTG: Font 7C, 8a
LTG: 8a in a session, Loskot & 2 Smoking Barrels next year.

[webbo]

Mon. rockcity did repeats i.e 8 problems twice.
Tue nothing.
Wed.repeated all the problems i'done before.
Thu.leeds wall.repeated all the stuff i did last week first go.managed a few moves on the yellows,then did 5 of the reds again.
Fri.
Sat.visit a wet caley and almscliff go to the depot.did a couple of things i couldn't do last time.
Sun.out on the bike 3hrs.

[Duncan Disorderly]

As Before.....

M: Bit of stretching.
T: PE Session @ The Works - Only had 90mins so got straight on the circuit board... Bad idea! Flash pump, couldn't get rid. Did foot on campussing and a bit of bouldering but everything hurt!
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Mamoth 4.5hr works session - PE, Bouldering, Foot on Campussing, Pressups, Pulls, Core.... Pint
S: Drunken pullup and core session 
S: Hungover PE session - PB on the foot on campussing (can hardly type today).

Really hurt myself this week and not in a bad way! Wasn't feeling great any of the days I trained this week but hung in there (failed miseably on me new circuit for instance) and it paid off with a PB on the smallest rungs on Sunday. 

This week: Hang on in there!

:D

[chillax]

STG: E3, boulder 7b
MTG: E4, go to yosemite next year and don't entirely punt it up
LTG: E7

Mon: Rain. Explored some of Donegal.
Tues: 4 new routes on Cruit island in Donegal. Fun.
Wed: Pullups and pushups
Thurs: Fingerboard
Fri: Job hunting
Sat: Nothing
Sun: Fingerboard

In a bit of a motivational black hole at the moment. Things are looking a bit bleak personally, professionally and climbing wise  Hope its only a temporary come down after the masters. I really want to be psyched for stuff again.

[Andy F]

Mon - rest
Tues - volume bouldering at AW, ladders and touches
Wed - family stuff
Thurs - school stuff
Fri - family stuff
Sat - family stuff
Sun - Malham. Mind meltingly hot so sacked off Overnite without even starting it.. Had a few runs up Zoolook, got a good working sequence despite the conditions.

[Nibile]

You crushed your project in Week 1??? Effort Nibs! 

ahah! I wish it was! the project I did was the last one I wanted to do before embarking in the quest for my bigger goals.
it was something that was in my mind since early summer and I wanted to get it done to be basically more "free".

[205Chris]

STGs: Break into the 7s at Font and do L'aerodynamite.

MTGs: Grit bouldering / highballing. Long list of peak 7b - 7cs and get to North Yorkshire more.

LTGs: Something that starts with an 8.

Font Report: Managed to climb every day and ticked 7 grade 7s which was probably better than expected. Spent a brief session acquainting myself with L'Aerodynamite. My best effort was setting up for the last move with my toe in the pocket but it felt a bit warm to stick the slopers. I'm going back to Font in 2 weeks so this is still very much on the agenda.

Sunday went to Burbage South for a potter and got spanked on everything. Probably should have rested in hindsight.

When I'm back from font I'll try and work out what's going to be on my gritstone ticklist for the winter.

[Muenchener]

STG: 6a+ os
MTG: 6b os, 1-3-5
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: rest.
T: domestic stress
W: work stress
T: bouldering, Boulderwelt. An hour warming up & playing, during which 3 more problems on the new circuit. Then 4x4 overhanging jug pulling on font 5b/cs. This was my first attempt at this: it certainly got me breathing heavily (and ripped huge flaps of skin off my hands), but felt like it pumped my lats more than my forearms. Maybe reduce angle & hold size a bit next time.
Bike ca 35 km to work & boulderwelt
F: ...
S: yoga
S: Climbing! Martinswand, Innsbruck. This is Frau Muenchener's approx. fourth time climbing on real rock, so she quite reasonably insists on somewhere with well-protected easy routes so as not to get her ass kicked. Martinswand has just such a sector. She notes with suspicion the presence of twin ropes in the car. Why yes, dear, I did indeed notice that there is a bunch of multi-pitch 6as & 6bs right next to the easy sector. Permission Denied. Much time spent belaying on polished easy routes, but also onsighted a nice 6a, thus confirming that my current indoor standard is not entirely an illusion.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Charity 10km in under 55 minutes (November)

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.


M-  10km in 57:35, knee hurting.  Wine.
T-  Knee hurting.  West View and did most of the things up to V5, struggling with knee.  Wine.
W-  Work, painful knee, wine.
T- Work, knee pain, wine.
F-  Knee painful still, so opted to avoid running/wall.  Spent an hour doing totally unstructured fingerboard dangling.  G+Ts.
S-  Blob sitting, got 12, 456 on PowerBall.  Wine.
S-  A day at Thomasland at Drayton Manor.  G+T.

Monday weigh in of 84.4kg.  Rather a bad week due to limits dictated by knee.  Shite.