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Best 7c in the UK? (Read 20635 times)

richieb

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#50 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 13, 2010, 06:24:17 pm
There's also meant to be some classics at The Anvil, The Camel, and Goat Crag, although I've forgotten the names.

The Goat Crag one is 'Prow Lefthand', The Camel one is 'Death is a Gift' but is 7c+.
Dunno about the Anvil, not been yet.

Mike Lee

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#51 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 13, 2010, 08:17:22 pm
Quote
Marlena - everyone likes it although it is a bit grim.
Omerta - not tried it but a better line than any sport route in England.
Sufferance - waaaaaaaaay easier than The Boltest, superb climbing.

There's also meant to be some classics at The Anvil, The Camel, and Goat Crag, although I've forgotten the names

Omerta looks the part, but slightly incongruent with the really hard start to a hands off ledge. Above that, it's got to be one of the best 7bs in the country.

Sufference is 7c+... or 8a...

The Anvil has a 7c on the right of the roof which is really good: steep, pumpy, athletic. Not a contender in comparison to New Dawn or anything though.

By the way, if Comedy gets downgraded all the routes at dumbuck will need a regrade... I keep getting shut down in grade debates about the (soft) 7c routes at dumbuck as they are "just as hard as Comedy and similar style"

Goat prow left hand is awesome, but sort of a cop out in comparison to the true 7c+ finish.

A personal favourite Black Socks at Am fasagh (near goat crag), which was 7c when I did it!

JohnM

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#52 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 13, 2010, 08:23:03 pm
I haven't done it but as a few Scottish routes have been mentioned I was wondering whether The Railway Children would be a contender?

Andy F

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#53 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 14, 2010, 08:17:05 am
Comedy really isn't that hard. One slappy move followed by steep jug pulling doen't make a 7c. To be honest, I'd happily take 7b for it... :whistle:
Which move couldn't you lock Andy? It was all pretty static for me... :whistle:

Being quite short I have to move my RH quickly to the finger jug on the crux. My feet, of course, stay firmly planted on the footholds. So it's slappy in a 'move quickly' sort of way... ;) :whistle:

A nice warm-up for some of the harder challenges at the crag.

mrjonathanr

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#54 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 14, 2010, 08:13:05 pm
Oh. It has a 'crux'? :-\

Only joking, I was pretty pleased to tick it. BTW they actually have a word for that in France: 'un conduit', where you move your arm really fast but everything else stays locked.

Serpico

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#55 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 07:45:20 am
Oh. It has a 'crux'? :-\

Only joking, I was pretty pleased to tick it. BTW they actually have a word for that in France: 'un conduit', where you move your arm really fast but everything else stays locked.

What's the French for when you move your arm really fast and everything else starts rapidly falling towards the ground? Une Farnell?

Andy F

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#56 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 08:11:35 am
Oh. It has a 'crux'? :-\

Only joking, I was pretty pleased to tick it. BTW they actually have a word for that in France: 'un conduit', where you move your arm really fast but everything else stays locked.

What's the French for when you move your arm really fast and everything else starts rapidly falling towards the ground? Une Farnell?

What's French for 'moaning about everyone overgrading and trying to downgrade everything else because I've officially reached grumpy old man status, bah humbug'? Une Serpico?

Serpico

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#57 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 08:21:41 am
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What's French for 'moaning about everyone overgrading and trying to downgrade everything else because I've officially reached grumpy old man status, bah humbug'? Une Serpico?

I'm not trying to 'downgrade everything else' just trying to stem the tide of upgrades of routes which have had their grades unchallenged for decades.

Andy F

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#58 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 08:25:52 am
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What's French for 'moaning about everyone overgrading and trying to downgrade everything else because I've officially reached grumpy old man status, bah humbug'? Une Serpico?

I'm not trying to 'downgrade everything else' just trying to stem the tide of upgrades of routes which have had their grades unchallenged for decades, bah humbug

holgerman

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#59 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 10:09:29 am
Grooved arete hard 7c - maybe 7c+ ? What you reckon Andy?

Adam Lincoln

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#60 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 10:19:33 am
Grooved arete hard 7c - maybe 7c+ ? What you reckon Andy?

7c with the knee bar  ;)

Andy F

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#61 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 11:05:04 am
Well, based on the assumption it goes down a grade every year you try it, it's 7b+. Possibly 7b with the knee bar, if you get it to work, which I couldn't.

Serpico

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#62 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 11:11:56 am
Grooved arete hard 7c - maybe 7c+ ? What you reckon Andy?

I'm going to miss you :'(

The Aaronator

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#63 Re: Best 7c in the UK?
October 15, 2010, 12:24:26 pm
:great:

Please don't stop... I'm enjoying this. Personally though, I've always thought that Man With A Gun is 7C.

                                                                                        :dance1:

 

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