Best 7c in the UK? (Read 20622 times)

nik at work · October 11, 2010, 02:26:42 pm

Quote from: Andy F on October 11, 2010, 11:06:50 am

Comedy isn't really 7c,

I think you might have done Comedy a few to many times to be objective Andy

Doylo · October 11, 2010, 02:38:30 pm

I've done Bad Boy a fair few times but still know what grade it is!

Pantontino · October 11, 2010, 02:41:04 pm

Quote from: IanP on October 11, 2010, 02:23:24 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on October 11, 2010, 01:43:33 pm
IMO Mescalito is spoiled by the ridiculously contrived finish. Why on earth is does that weird little traverse left at the top roof leaving you in a really awkard position to clip the belay i'll never know

It didn't spoil it for me since it was an easy decision from the first time on it that I was going to grab the belay chain . I guess that I'll be sent to coventry by the ethics committee but as you say it is in a ridiculous position.

So that's why you thought it was only F7c! Go straight to jail, do not pass go...

Andy F · October 11, 2010, 03:02:59 pm

Quote from: nik at work on October 11, 2010, 02:26:42 pm

Quote from: Andy F on October 11, 2010, 11:06:50 am
Comedy isn't really 7c,
I think you might have done Comedy a few to many times to be objective Andy

Comedy really isn't that hard. One slappy move followed by steep jug pulling doen't make a 7c. To be honest, I'd happily take 7b for it...

Steve R · October 11, 2010, 03:14:35 pm

Another confession from a Mescalito chain grabber here.

Guilty as charged! And Frankenstein an all. Phew, glad to get those off my chest after all these years of guilt.

Pantontino · October 11, 2010, 03:20:25 pm

Quote from: Steve R on October 11, 2010, 03:14:35 pm

Another confession from a Mescalito chain grabber here. Guilty as charged! And Frankenstein an all. Phew, glad to get those off my chest after all these years of guilt.

It was so long ago I can't remember what I did at the chain - might have to go into regression therapy to unearth that part of my memory. For now though I'll stick to the non-chain grabbing story (even though I definitely recall jumping for a hanging tape belay on China Crisis around the same time).

Dolly · October 11, 2010, 03:21:27 pm

Where does it say in the rules that you can't grab the chain then ?

Steve R · October 11, 2010, 03:46:22 pm

I think it's under 'Chapter 5: Anchors and Lower Offs'. Just after the 'Pre-clipped draws; how many is too many?' section.

shark · October 11, 2010, 03:52:26 pm

Used to be a matter of legpulling. Now it seems a more serious topic with a faction adamant that it disqualifies an ascent (other than Raindogs). For sure its not good style to grab the chain but to say or imply it entirely disqualifies an ascent pisses me off.

Andy F · October 11, 2010, 03:55:59 pm

Did you clip the belay at the top of Overnite $:-\$

shark · October 11, 2010, 03:57:46 pm

Nope. No intention to either.

As to the best 7c's that'll be Mark of the Beast and New Dawn IMO.

Adam Lincoln · October 11, 2010, 04:00:39 pm

For me.

Dominatrix.
Hall Of Mirrors (The Cuttings)
Free And Easy (If not just for the position!)

Andy F · October 11, 2010, 04:01:15 pm

Quote from: shark on October 11, 2010, 03:57:46 pm

Nope. No intention to either.

Don't let the crag police (a.k.a. Serpico) know, otherwise

Doylo · October 11, 2010, 08:06:25 pm

Quote from: shark on October 11, 2010, 03:52:26 pm

For sure its not good style to grab the chain but to say or imply it entirely disqualifies an ascent pisses me off.

What about routes where a few more moves are required to clip the chain off a jug? Is it fair for some to climb and often fall off after the point where others have dynoed for their quickdraw? I can think of a few routes like this.

shark · October 11, 2010, 08:41:50 pm

Quote from: Doylo on October 11, 2010, 08:06:25 pm

Quote from: shark on October 11, 2010, 03:52:26 pm
For sure its not good style to grab the chain but to say or imply it entirely disqualifies an ascent pisses me off.

What about routes where a few more moves are required to clip the chain off a jug? Is it fair for some to climb and often fall off after the point where others have dynoed for their quickdraw? I can think of a few routes like this.

Because somebody has made a decision to try it in better style (with increased risk of failure) but failed doesn't mean that somebody's succesful ascent in worse style is invalid. I understand the implication that the failed non-grabbing style attempt is an equivalent performance to the successful grabbing attempt on a route like Unjustified - that being the route you are alluding to. You could also argue that you have climbed a certain grade even if you have only climbed part way up a route and fallen off. To me (I accept that others don't hold this view) belays that are hard to clip are fair game for grabbing. If someone else chooses to make it hard for themselves by doing or attempting a route in better style thats their choice. But I don't accept it is their prerogative/entitlement to invalidate or discredit another persons ascent completed in poorer style on the grounds that is 'not fair'. I can split this thread if you like as it has gone off-topic but its all been said before here

Serpico · October 11, 2010, 08:52:11 pm

Quote from: RichK on October 11, 2010, 12:25:26 pm

Whats with the sudden shift from upgrading to down grading Andy

A bit of judicious downgrading every now and then adds credibility to your upgrades, don't worry I'm sure normal service will be resumed shortly.
Anyway you can't downgrade Comedy - it'd be a huge insult to the first ascentionist.....

7a+ it is then.

The Aaronator · October 11, 2010, 09:20:32 pm

Newdawn. Dominatrix. Boilogical Need.

Berlin at Ceuse, not in the UK but I wish it was...

I think I grabed the chain on everything I did before 1997. Does this mean I can do them all again? should keep me busy for year or two.

Doylo · October 12, 2010, 10:43:44 am

Berlin dismays me at the 7c grade, must be the worlds hardest....

Dolly · October 12, 2010, 11:13:55 am

Quote from: shark on October 11, 2010, 03:52:26 pm

I can split this thread if you like as it has gone off-topic

Sorry - my fault. It was a genuine question though

webbo · October 12, 2010, 12:45:50 pm

i didn't grab the chain on comedy. :whistle:does that mean i can still have 7c for it.

Andy F · October 12, 2010, 02:02:34 pm

Quote from: webbo on October 12, 2010, 12:45:50 pm

i didn't grab the chain on comedy. :whistle:does that mean i can still have 7c 7a for it.

Fiend · October 12, 2010, 02:45:35 pm

The Boltest might be the best 8c in the country. It's somewhere between "several" and "a billion" grades harder than The Squealer.

North of the border....

Marlena - everyone likes it although it is a bit grim.
Omerta - not tried it but a better line than any sport route in England.
Sufferance - waaaaaaaaay easier than The Boltest, superb climbing.

There's also meant to be some classics at The Anvil, The Camel, and Goat Crag, although I've forgotten the names.

The Aaronator · October 12, 2010, 11:03:07 pm

Quote from: Doylo on October 12, 2010, 10:43:44 am

Berlin dismays me at the 7c grade, must be the worlds hardest....

That depends on which edition of the guide book you have.

iain · October 13, 2010, 08:14:32 am

Quote from: Fiend on October 12, 2010, 02:45:35 pm

North of the border....

Marlena - everyone likes it although it is a bit grim.

Grim? Really? How can you say that after doing sport at Dumby $:-\$

I don't think it's a best in the uk though.

mrjonathanr · October 13, 2010, 05:02:33 pm

Quote from: Andy F on October 11, 2010, 03:02:59 pm

Comedy really isn't that hard. One slappy move followed by steep jug pulling doen't make a 7c. To be honest, I'd happily take 7b for it...

Which move couldn't you lock Andy? It was all pretty static for me...

The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag is an often overlooked gem (Chee Dale, Two Tier Upper). Great climbing in a great position. Given 7b+ in the guide but defo more like bottom-end 7c.