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Here's a challenge (Read 2064 times)

T_B

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Here's a challenge
October 13, 2010, 10:44:47 am
There's something about seeing bolts next to cracks that makes my stomach turn. But at F8c, this is gonna be hard on natural gear:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/journal/climb//lars-ole-gudevang-grimpent-fraulein-sur-son-home-spot-kvam-%C3%A0-sogndal-norv%C3%A8ge-en-gb

cowboyhat

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#1 Re: Here's a challenge
October 13, 2010, 05:59:45 pm
'The first part is steep- with pinches, crimps, slopes and underclings, and the final 7 meters ends with a very steep crack.'

You going to solo the first bit, (21 metres), Meshuga style then pop a runner in the crack just in case?

boulderingbacon

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#2 Re: Here's a challenge
October 14, 2010, 10:33:33 pm
thats how dave mac would of done it. ::)

Tommy

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#3 Re: Here's a challenge
October 14, 2010, 11:12:47 pm
Typical European..... getting the layback on. All that fitness - they just don't know what to do with it!


nash1

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#4 Re: Here's a challenge
October 15, 2010, 12:29:00 pm
Lars Ole is a good man with solid ethics, the crag is bolted and it would be a bit daft to have an 8c on gear there. Bear in mind this is only the 3rd or 4th 8c in Norway and there are no 8c+'s.

Apparently it is so steep in the crack that jamming is not really gonna work, it is basically the Yorkshireman on top of an 8b. Looks cool!

 

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