[al123]

i know you shouldnt do crimps when using a fingerboard because it puts alot of strain on your fingers blah blah, but i was wondering if i put some mirrored pinch holds ( off the beacon site, anyone got anything to say about those holds??) would these be a no no for fingerboard use?? im thinking that pinch holds seem to put a fair amount of strain on your fingers??
cheers Al

[Paul B]

doesn't fingerboarding in general?

[al123]

suuupppoooseee . i mean like would it be sort of the same as doing full or half crimps on a fingerboard?

[lagerstarfish]

mirrored pinch holds

Ah, I see that you're training for Minus Ten...


What pinch problems are you training for?

Are you aware that using thumbs on plastic/wood is tantamount to fudgepacking?

(I mean fudgepacking in the non-homophobic and non-misogynistic way that Cadbury wrap their confectionery)

[lagerstarfish]

Sorry about that. The Fool posting under my log in again - he's back in the dungeon now.

Most pinch issues on real rock and plastic are quite wide pinches involving the fingers being in the open position.... hang on... he's got out again...

[a dense loner]

al is this a real question?

[al123]

al is this a real question?

yes, i geuss i have asked a very stupid question then??? i just thought pinches mite be sort of like crimps that they could do more worse than good when used on a fingerboard......
not really training for a specific problem but looking to expand the fingerboard so i thought some slopers and mirroed pinches?
 

[chris_j_s]

i just thought pinches mite be sort of like crimps that they could do more worse than good when used on a fingerboard......

 

I'm sure this is a myth which has been well and truly debunked now.

Best to increase your crimp strength in a controlled environment rather than never train it but expect to be able to go outdoors and crush on some nasty tiny crimps!

Goes without saying that if you push it too hard to quickly you'll injure yourself but if you go easy and build it up slowly you're onto a winner.