[Adam Lincoln]

Fnt 8c+ reported by Calibrini on 8a.nu

Old 8b+ which had hold broken

Wonder if this will generate a mass forum grade debate :roll:

[dave]

I'll have 100 notes on it getting downgraded.

[dave]

wouldn't you have to be onsighting 8bs to be laying down 8c+ though......

[dobbin]

He is pretty hard core though...

[Doylo]

The fact that a Font wad such as Nadiras has been there certainly gives it more credibility in my eyes. Sounds like a contender for a 'proper' 8c anyway.

[Björn]

Check 8a.nu to see what Julien Nadiras has to say about it.

[Björn]

the server was down, but now it's up again

[Bubba]

I just deleted my post coz I saw it was up again! Ah well !

Where is the bit by Mr Nadiras?

[Doylo]

Bloody hell thats sold it for me, Nadiras knows what he talking about!

[Kim]

Where is the bit by Mr Nadiras?

This is it:

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We also asked Julien Nadiras what he had to say about the problem. This is what he says: "Believe me, what Mauro did is really impressive. For me Leonardo da Vinci sds is certainly the hardest problem I've done and I'm sure it's 8B+ because it's completely my style and his style. Since the crux hold broke I imagine that the problem is harder but I haven't seen the new hold. I've also done the first part(5 moves) and it's certainly 7C+. It's very physical and after that you have to do the 8B+. I also thought that the whole problem would be 8C/8C+. The difficulty is to link all the moves because you need lots of power all the way and you need to be very strong on heel-hooks. Mauro is definitely the strongest guy in compression I've ever seen.
If you compare Tonino '78 to the hardest problems in the world, it's very far away, on another planet really, when it comes to difficulty.
We have to remember that Tonino '78 is his pure style and when you play in your favorite style and work a lot at home with no pressure you can do crazy things!!.
The problem with Mauro is that everybody knows him as a competitor and most people don't know he's done hard things on rock. After 5 days of work with warm weather on Dreamtime he fell 3 moves from the top and never came back again. For Tonino '78 he worked several months and this problem suits him better than Dreamtime. Moreover he is at home. I'm not for the ongoing raising of grades everywhere in the world, but in this case trust him, he knows what he's talking about.

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[Kim]

Some video footage here:

http://www.enove.it/video.htm

[Doylo]

Looks like an easy version of Lou Ferrino!

[unclesomebody]

even though the video quality is total shite, it is so great watching someone's months of dedication coming together in one flowing attempt and making what is the hardest bit of climbing in the world ever look so easy... just a few slaps, a few heel hooks, easy...

[Bubba]

The problem with web videos that are this compressed is that you can't really see what the hell is going on, which is a shame. Why not put up a good quality video that's 3 times the size? I know which I'd prefer.

They're all obviously pretty stoked at the end though  :D

[ian h]

he certainly rips up it

might as well be v1 cos the quality of film though. nice line though

those e9 togs are abit pricey.