posted by: dave date: 2002-09-17 time: 08:24:17 reply x
Been a bit quiet on here lately, which is a shame, so I`m going to make the effort to post something - hope everyone will respond with a similar degree of mindless optimism!.....
Me and one of my crew went out t`other day to find Mo`s "Bin Laden`s Cave" V8 problem at Gardoms. We found it and did it, and although slightly dirty it is excellent, and well worth the trip. Just wondering if anyone else has done it and what they thought of it?? I think it deserves some traffic during this winter, so if anyone wants directions to it them please post.
Come on you know you want to post!
postId: 607 posted by: jim date: 2002-09-17 time: 11:11:46 reply x
In reply to post 605:
Hiya Dave, it is a bit quiet eh?
I was in Birmingham at the weekend, home of nothing very good, and
definitely no climbing.
Thinking of areas deserving more traffic, every year it seems a voluntary
ban on the plantation gets suggested but never happens (understandably I
suppose).
What about getting a list of unsung gems together to check out on the
crispy days?
I keep meaning to look at more of the less known Yorksghire crags
postId: 611 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-17 time: 11:40:18 reply x
In reply to post 607:
I can recomend a few unsung (and not so unsung) gems off the beaten track:
Bin Laden`s Cave, Gardoms
Pogles Wood (sitting), Gardoms
Walnut Traverse, Baslow
The Beagle Has landed, Baslow
Jason`s Roof/Undercling, Burbage North
Lurcher Direct, Bell Hagg
Perfect Porthole, Derwent
Curvaceous, Wharncliffe
Borg, Roche Abbey
Tierdrop, Ramshaw
I can vouch these are all quality problems, i don`t think anyone could be
dissapointed with any of these problems.
postId: 612 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-17 time: 12:27:25 reply x
In reply to post 611:
Mmm, Tierdrop. Had a couple of goes at this on Friday. Got matched on the
lip but didn`t try the move to the finger jug. Decided I wanted an
additional mat or two as I`m getting a bit old and my knees aren`t what
they were and my old war wound was playing up and lots of other very good
reasons other than cowardice. How big a move is the last one? Is that by
far the hardest move? Or is it going to be a bit less severe than I
imagine?
I`ll bite: can I have directions to Bin Laden`s Cave, please? Just the one
problem there?
Have you tried the direct start to Perfect Day at Gardoms? I went to have
a look but it definitely warrants a couple of mats and a spotter which I
didn`t have. I`ve heard from Font 7a+ to 7c. Looks hard but very good.
postId: 614 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-17 time: 12:37:15 reply x
In reply to post 611:
Mmm, Tierdrop. Had a couple of goes at this on Friday. Got matched on the
lip but didn`t try the move to the finger jug. Decided I wanted an
additional mat or two as I`m getting a bit old and my knees aren`t what
they were and my old war wound was playing up and lots of other very good
reasons other than cowardice. How big a move is the last one? Is that by
far the hardest move? Or is it going to be a bit less severe than I
imagine?
I`ll bite: can I have directions to Bin Laden`s Cave, please? Just the one
problem there?
Have you tried the direct start to Perfect Day at Gardoms? I went to have
a look but it definitely warrants a couple of mats and a spotter which I
didn`t have. I`ve heard from Font 7a+ to 7c. Looks hard but very good.
postId: 615 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-17 time: 13:02:14 reply x
In reply to post 614:
"So good they posted it twice"
I will say don`t worry about the mats on tierdrop, when i first commited
to the top move i fell off and missed the mats and the spotters and it was
fine. Wheni eventually did it my spotters had gone to try Gumshoe but it
didn`t seem to bother me when you are concentrating. I would say the big
slap off the runnel is no harder than the preceding moves, but it IS the
psychological crux for sure. I used to get half way though the wind-up for
it and then bottle - its more intimidating than actaully hard. Just put
your right foot on and slap. When you eventually do it its fine, the hold
you are going for is very incut, then the top easier section is fine, but
be carefull incase its a bit mucky. font 7a+??.
As for BLC, walk downhill from moyers till you see Pogles Wood boulder on
your right. Keep walking for 20yards till you get to an obvious thin path
leading of leftwards (south). Follow it for a couple of minutes, and as it
bears back uphill slightly BLC is the leaning wall on your left - easy to
spot since it is the only rock here. yes theres just the one problem,
arete for RH, various sidepulls in face for LH. OK if you`re not warmed up
since there are no fingery holds, mainly slopers. well worth the walk
since its not that far from moyers at all really.
Never looked at the direct start to PD, always forget it exists. I heard
7c for it.
postId: 621 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-23 time: 08:03:53 reply x
In reply to post 615:
Thanks for the recommendation of Bin Laden`s Cave. Went there on Friday
and did it. What a great problem. Shame there isn`t more there.
postId: 622 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-23 time: 08:37:45 reply x
In reply to post 621:
nice one. was it clean? what did you think of the grade? i think being
tall helps on this one.
postId: 623 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-23 time: 08:53:21 reply x
In reply to post 622:
The top needed a brush as there was quite a bit of dirt and leaves and
gubbins all over the top holds. Grade, hmmm. Font 7a+, V7? I`d love it if
concensus said V8 but I did it second go and I`ve never done that on a V8
before. I`m 5`10" with a zero ape index. You couldn`t build a problem more
suited to me: steep, mainly good handholds, plenty of heelhooking. In
contrast, I got nowhere on the sit start to Pogle`s Wood on the same day,
just couldn`t move on the pinch.
postId: 625 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-23 time: 09:14:07 reply x
In reply to post 623:
Aye, I thought V8 was generous, but then again Mo is only 3 foot tall so
it figures.
I know what you mean about PW sitting - despite having done it before i
couldn`t repeat it last week, kept greasing off the pinch, and even the
lip slopers were in awful nick. i assume you had similar conditions, i.e.
no wind and quite warm. roll on winter.
postId: 627 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-23 time: 09:24:39 reply x
In reply to post 625:
Yup, it was warm, still and I was being savaged by blood-crazed midges.
To add to your list of lesser known gems posted above, here are a few
suggestions...
Master Chef, Millstone
Sit start to hanging arete right of Jason`s Undercling, Burbage North
Breakfast sit start, Burbage West (right side of arete at far left end of
Burbage West)
Bulb sit start, Eagle Tor
Tourette`s Arete, Eagle Tor
postId: 628 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-23 time: 09:51:37 reply x
In reply to post 627:
"Sit start to hanging arete right of Jason`s Undercling, Burbage North"
Interesting - whos done this? a mate of mine did it a few weeks ago
(albeit finishing up the B8) and thought it might be a FA. I was going to
do up the arete. when was it done, and by whom? i know its a cracking
problem for sure......
postId: 630 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-23 time: 10:04:29 reply x
In reply to post 628:
If you`re talking about the same problem as me then I did it last winter.
I did the same sit start as the right hand problem as far as the lip, then
finished up the left side of the arete. Is this the line you were thinking
of or are you envisioning a different line?
postId: 631 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-23 time: 10:06:02 reply x
In reply to post 630:
Maybe talking about the same thing.....where did you start from?
postId: 632 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-23 time: 10:19:26 reply x
In reply to post 631:
It`s ASCII topo time! Don`t know if the spacing will work but I`ll have a
go...
___
/
/d
____/ \_____/
a b c
a. The Terrace.
b. Jason`s Undercling.
c. No name.
d. No name.
c and d are both listed in the Peak Bouldering Rockfax as B8, with d
starting from sitting. I started sitting as for d. As I remember, left
hand in slot, right hand in small undercut. Pull off the ground and move
up to decent edges on the steep wall, toehook the undercling on the left
and pop for the lip. Match there, then finish up the arete on its left
side.
postId: 633 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-23 time: 10:21:11 reply x
In reply to post 632:
No, the ASCII art didn`t work. Get it sorted, Mike! We need a standard
spacing font. c is the arete right of JU, d the wall right again.
postId: 634 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-23 time: 10:41:53 reply x
In reply to post 633:
i get what you mean. My mate started as per jasons, but from the
keel/pinch swung out right into the crimp in to roof, then finished up the
B8. For some reason i always assumed that the B8 started hanging on the
big hold under the lip, and the B7 stared hanging the lip.
postId: 636 posted by: mike date: 2002-09-24 time: 08:59:01 reply x
In reply to post 634:
Is it time for a mini-topo of this bit of Burbage? I`ll get one done next
time I`m out there...
postId: 638 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-24 time: 10:37:16 reply x
In reply to post 636:
checked the bouldering guide mike and the listed B8 and B7 start either on
the lip or just under on the obvious hold, so these ones climbed from the
bottom are new problems. Keep the topo low-key, don`t want the riff-raff
down there......
postId: 654 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-25 time: 08:33:19 reply x
In reply to post 638:
How hard was the sit start to the B8 that your mate did, Dave? Is his
start much harder than where I began from? Thinking that`s where it was
meant to start from, I did the B8 from sitting directly under it and
thought it was about 7a+. I thought the B7 from sitting bumped it up to
about 7a+ as well. Have to have a look at starting from JU.
These problems ought to have names. I hate having to refer to problems
as "the B8" or "the arete right of ...". If a problem`s good it deserves a
name, plus it makes it much easier to get your bearings when someone is
describing something. Quite possibly someone else has done these before
but they neglected to name them, so how about we choose some names? My
suggestion for the arete right of Jason`s Undercling from a sitting start
is Oversteer, the wall right again (the B8) from a sitting start is
Understeer. Any better suggestions?
postId: 656 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-25 time: 11:00:17 reply x
In reply to post 654:
can`t remember how hard he reconed it was, maybe 7b i don`t know.
Have you done jason`s undercling?, its a brilliant problem.
postId: 657 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-25 time: 12:39:52 reply x
In reply to post 656:
Good effort if you`ve done it. I have a hard enough time just doing the
finish of Jason`s. I`ve done it starting off two mats so that I can get
the right hand hold perfectly but I can`t imagine doing it straight from
the ground let alone from underneath the roof. Too fingery for me to match
on that hold.
postId: 658 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-25 time: 13:17:31 reply x
In reply to post 657:
I didn`t match on the RH hold, i go to the arete instead with the LH. Then
theres a hard move to get the Lfoot up. I know what you mean about the
finish move (the B9), i fell off that move over a dozen times after doing
it right from the start of Jason`s! Was worth it in the end though, superb
problem, a classic. Keep trying it, get it wired and then come winter
it`ll be yours.
postId: 659 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-25 time: 14:13:05 reply x
In reply to post 658:
I was basing the match on the sequence used by Jerry in the brief clip of
him doing the problem in Stick It. I`ll go and have a look at it again. It
would be good to have a project at Burbage North as it`s the closest edge
to home. Nothing quite like nipping out early and arriving at work having
already been out climbing, frightening my workmates with my blood-leaking
fingertips.
