[The Aaronator]

Start 2m right of Balas and climb direct to the ledge and into the initial section of Sabbath's Theatre, then continue straight up the technical and increasingly overhanging wall, trending leftwards at 3/4 height into the high groove to a belay on the left.

I climbed the direct version of Sabbath's Theatre at the easier grade of 8a a fortnight ago and called it The Puppeteer but this new route has a far superior finish and stays away from the dodgy rock on the right. Worth at least two stars.

[slackline]

Does it get any stars?  What about loose rock?

[The Aaronator]

Does it get any stars?  What about loose rock?

Worth at least two stars.

...and there's no loose rock on this line.

[The Aaronator]

Does it get any stars?  What about loose rock?

Worth at least two stars.

...and there's no loose rock on this line.

...as long as you ignore the rienforced holds...

[slackline]

Wasn't clear as to whether you were referring to the new line you report in the title or the direct start you mention in the text.

Oooh, reinforced holds, now how does that tally with staring or routes?   Surely it should be strong natural lines only, with quality positions/moves, none of the sika reinforced holds   

[The Aaronator]

Wasn't clear as to whether you were referring to the new line you report in the title or the direct start you mention in the text.

Oooh, reinforced holds, now how does that tally with staring or routes?   Surely it should be strong natural lines only, with quality positions/moves, none of the sika reinforced holds   

It's pretty much direct all the way. Sabbath's Theatre traverses off to the right about 1/3 of the way up.

I think you have a point, but I noticed that 50 for 5 has only one star and is on better quality rock than Tragedy and Man With a Gun that are both 2 star. Is the extra star for a much more enjoyable, satisfying or adventurous style of climbing that makes up for the poorer rock quality... all these are arguably better than Drenka - only time will tell ...maybe it should be given one star for rock quality and two stars for the climbing. It is subjective... 

[slackline]

I quite like the most recent Tremadog guide for doing away with stars.  Spreads the load across all routes and besides, many of the non-starred lines I've done have been more fun than starred routes.

[Adam Lincoln]

Was on The Puppeteer today. Its not 8a in my view. Like i suspected, after my original look a few months back, i think its 8a+. Its two full grades harder than La Lapin, as a comparison.

[Andy F]

Was on The Puppeteer today. Its not 8a in my view. Like i suspected, after my original look a few months back, i think its 8a+. Its two full grades harder than La Lapin, as a comparison.

Which, as popular concencus has le Lapin at 8a, makes the Puppeteer 8b and Drenka 8b+...   

[The Aaronator]

Which, as popular concencus has le Lapin at 8a, makes the Puppeteer 8b and Drenka 8b+...   

I wish 8b+'s were that easy...

[Andy F]

Which, as popular concencus has le Lapin at 8a, makes the Puppeteer 8b and Drenka 8b+...   

I wish 8b+'s were that easy...

Then they'd be 8a+ ...

[Serpico]

Was on The Puppeteer today. Its not 8a in my view. Like i suspected, after my original look a few months back, i think its 8a+. Its two full grades harder than La Lapin, as a comparison.

Which, as popular concencus has le Lapin at 8a, makes the Puppeteer 8b and Drenka 8b+...   

Watching the Farnell upgrade machine in full flow is like a masterclass in state-of-the-art upgrading strategies - I may not agree with it but it is a privilege  to watch a professional at work. 

[Andy F]

Just doing the maths 

[Adam Lincoln]

Was on The Puppeteer today. Its not 8a in my view. Like i suspected, after my original look a few months back, i think its 8a+. Its two full grades harder than La Lapin, as a comparison.

Which, as popular concencus has le Lapin at 8a, makes the Puppeteer 8b and Drenka 8b+...   

Le Lapin is probably 7c+, in good conditions. So 8a+ for The Puppeteer is about right. Can't comment on Drenka.

[Andy F]

As I said before, le Lapin is generally regarded as 8a.  It may be 7c+ in good conditions, but what route doesn't feel easier/harder depending on said conditions? Aaron may just be crap at grading routes or, knowing him, more likely just modest. Whatever the grade the routes take good lines and offer good climbing, for that he should be praised.