[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.3-4

M.
T. Cornice PM. Tried Dirty Old Man again but hold at end of crux was greasy. It then poured down. Had a couple of goes on first half of Roof Warrior.
W.
T. AM. Tor. Attempted the Toilet.
F.
S. Cornice wet so went to Tor. Nearly did the Toilet. Stopped off at Stoney on way back for a social and then back to the Moon later
S. Abbeydale beer festival then BBQ. Eve. Board. Oak type moves 

Strained lower back this weak. Temperature dropping this week. If I can get anyone interested I will head up to Malham Thurs afternoon..

[Jim]

a good week for me climbing wise
M: frogsmouth
T: wall doing dirty routes with CLM at mcc, quick bit of bouldering to finish
W:
T: wall doing routes with axle then some bouldering & circular style problems and pull-ups at logport
F,S,S: working
off all next week
Goals: 8a bloc before 33 (9 months & counting, looking unlikely at the moment), lose weight to around 12 stone (if only food & beer wasn't so tasty)
good intensity last week for a change, hopefully continue this week

[205Chris]

Suitably inspired by meeting Shark the other week I've decided to join power club, so here goes:

STGs: Were all peak sport routes but as I'm off to font in 3 weeks I'm going to switch to bouldering mode and say, do my first 7a in font, closely followed by as many 7s as I can. If I managed L'Aerodynamite I'd be pretty happy.

MTGs: Grit bouldering / highballing. Long list of peak 7b - 7cs and get to North Yorkshire more.

LTGs: Something that starts with an 8.

M: Board session in garage. Dispatched a project I'd set about 6 months ago
T: Nowt
W: Board session in garage.
T+F: Nowt.
S: Family reunion near Ripon. Sneak out to Almscliff and after an epic battle manage to bag the keel. YYFY. Nearly ended up being NNFN after falling off with my hand in the pocket on an early attempt!.
S: Head home via Brimham and manage The Rack + Whisky Galore.

[saltbeef]

if only food & beer wasn't so tasty

agreed

[Charles]

Goals: Onsight F7b in Mallorca (a week on Thursday)

Monday: Depot. Played on the big roof a while. Repeated F7b+, got shut down by new F7c.
Tuesday: Depot. Power Endurance on the circuit board.
Wednesday: A couple of leisurely pints turned into an epic session. Ended up in Flares. That's how battered.
Thursday: Scheduled training cancelled due to inability to cope with movement.
Friday: Just about recovered from Weds.
Saturday: Troller's Gill. Easy stuff wet. Got stuck in on Haslam. Redpointed 1st go. F7b (or 7b+ in some guides) in a session. Brilliant.
Sunday: Robin Proctor's Scar. Handful of routes before the blustery wind blew the psyche away. Failed to onsight a F6c+. Upsetting, but good to fall off.

While my goal might seem quite (very) optimistic now I'm this close to the trip, I'm sticking with it. I know there are a couple of F7bs there that will suit me very well and I should develop some fitness while there (11 day trip). I feel very comfortable leading at my limit at the moment so this will bode well. Couple more training sessions next week, then lots of rest, lots of skin care and boom - Mallorca!

[Barratt]

Stg: recover from lads holiday

Monday
Tuesday: bouldering at foundry, felt fat and weak
Wednesday: rest, still tired
Thursday: works, a little better form, but still a bit crap
Friday: family meal and beer
Sat: works, bit better but feeling let night
Sun: works, general session cut short by shoulder

Shoulder is a mess really. No sign of improvement even after a good week off. I'm pretty sure that this is an impingement, going to seek advice next week    

[shark]

Shoulder is a mess really. No sign of improvement even after a good week off. I'm pretty sure that this is an impingement,

Searching on youtube for yoga stretches for the shoulders is worth a go. If are down the Foundry tomorrow evening I can show you the ones that I find work best

[robertostallioni]

 If are down the Foundry tomorrow evening I can show you the ones that I find work best

Beware the Heimlich

[galpinos]

WE 12/9/10

STG:      Onsight more E2s, Redpoint 7b
MTG:      Onsight E3
LTG:       Font 7c, Onsight E5 & 7b, Redpoint 8a
Current Best:   Font 7b, Onsight E2 & 6c, Redpoint 7a+

M:   40 minute run followed by press ups and sit ups.
T:   2 Hrs at the wall. New green (V7/8) and yellow (World Cup) problems meant a lot of running around like a headless chicken ticking nothing bar the soft green (there’s always one!). Finished with 1 arm locks and assisted 1 arm pull-ups. Felt a bit weak.
W:   2 Hrs at the wall. More failing on new, hard for me problems. Finished with 1 arm locks and assisted 1 arm pull-ups. Felt a bit weak.
T:   Quick 1 hr session at the wall. Went round the white V4/5 circuit trying to flash them all. Had about 80% success.  Finished with press ups and sit ups.
F:   40 minute run followed by press ups and sit ups
S:   Attempted an easy mileage day down the dale with Falling Down, which ended up as three dogged ascents of Tin Of at Raven Tor.
S:   Headed to Stoney with Falling Down and after the rain lead Padme and seconded Om and Armageddon.

Ok week training wise. Bit gutted with the weather at the weekend but salvaged both days. Found Tin Of really hard on the first look, felt better on the second (all the moves, only a couple of rests) and totally shattered on the third. Stoney was good, despite not ticking anything hard on lead.

[nik at work]

8b+, 8B

M - nothing
T - nothing
W - nothing
T - Kilnsey, fail to redpoint A Smarter Martyr, horrendous greasy conditions. Evening board session with GCW and RGinns
F - Nothing
S - Cream tea, yum.
S - Chapel Head with the Stallion collective. Got all moves on Surfing then failed to redpoint later in the day, I'll blame conditions again I think...

Not a bad week in terms of getting out, could do with more board work I suppose. I was feeling pretty confident at Kilnsey but conditions were awful. At Chapel I also felt confident as I worked the route, conditions were reasonable and the wet bits were drying back but at redpoint time things had minged out. I think I am at the extremely hampered end of the bell curve for a graph of the impact of conditions on an individuals performance in a population of climbers...

[Falling Down]

STG:Redpoint 7b & Lead E3 by end of Sept.
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Lightweight Easy Way/Indecent) & Onsight E5.
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6 drop weight to 11.5 st.

Tue - Run.
Thur - Bouldering @ Raven Tor after work.
Fri - Run & Weights/Core PE Routine.
Sat - 15 mile road bike ride am. Raven Tor pm - 2 dog and 1 RP attempt at Tin Of.
Sun - Tradding at Stoney. Om, Padme (2nd) and Armegeddon.

Good week getting back into the saddle after a couple of weekends of eating and drinking. Saturday was meant to be an easy mileage day down Cheedale but the weather was so poor that Raven Tor was the only option. Had a poor first attempt (on top rope - it just confirmed to me that it's a really poor way to work sport routes) then had a really good bolt-to-bolt doing all the moves. Fell off the crux on RP then felt tired dogging the rest to the top. Sunday was great in spite of the weather. Went to Stoney for the day with Galpinos & really enjoyed Armegeddon having wanted to do it for ages. Felt like a climber again....

Goals this week:
Do some cardio and fingerboard/weights today and tomorrow.
Climbing wall Wednesday.
Sat/Sun - Tradding on the Lleyn between chores. Full Sail at Dorys or A Path To Rome if feeling confident.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7C, E5.
Goal for September: Mussel Beach (LPT), just Mussel Beach...

m. nowt.
t. Redpoint wall, campussed and did a couple of hardish probs.
w. nowt.
t. Redpoint wall. Pulled hamstring on rockover, spent rest of evening campussing and complaining.
f. Evening on Pen Trwyn, flashed Dive Dive Dive.
s. nowt.
s. Pen Trwyn, warmup on Excursion Direct - shitty bolting needs sorting out. O/S'd Ten-Ton Caiman. Played on Ironman, ready to go.

Missed last couple of weeks, basically lots of work and only climbing on weekends, a normal situation for many I guess, I don't like it. Uber frustrating time failing to find any partners for Mussel Beach. Sent Left Wall High in a sulk as a consolation, first V9. Also my first 7b flash followed closely by first 7b O/S so things aren't too bad, just thought I would have ticked Mussel by now.

[Luthor]

Pretty good week climbing / training;

M - Rest
T - Bouldering at Works on the comp wall
W - Bouldering at Raven's Tor. Did Weedkiller Traverse and few other things.
T - Bouldering at the works
F- Light bouldering sess at the works
S - Bouldering at the works, 30-40 circuit problems.
S - Rest
 

[Barratt]

Shoulder is a mess really. No sign of improvement even after a good week off. I'm pretty sure that this is an impingement,

Searching on youtube for yoga stretches for the shoulders is worth a go. If are down the Foundry tomorrow evening I can show you the ones that I find work best

Dam - missed your post mate. When you next down?

[i_a_coops]

STG - onsight 7b, more 7cs
MTG - Crush in Mallorca, Font 7C, Secret Cabaret

M
T     Portland, did Hall of Mirrors first RP of the day.  Didn't go straight up the arete  , partly because the pocket was greasy, partly because I'm soft, and partly because I saw the line in the CC guidebook!
W   Dinas Rock. 7a+ flash, Jacob burned me off by onsighting the 7b extension though. Fortunately I gave him a sound metaphorical spanking when we went bouldering.
T     Pembroke, nearly soiled my pants
F     Evening session at Cheddar, pissed up Still Waters putting the clips in, did Insatiable pretty fast, good times.
S    E3 multipitch! Christ. Did Playboys yet again for a friend, who duly crushed it. Big YYFY for that! Feeling absolutely wasted.
S    Get moves on Millimetre War, must come back for this (no star 3 bolt blank 7c, my kind of thing!). Got on Secret Cabaret instead of redpointing it though. Dogged it, moves felt easy, getting psyched for the redpoint.....then someone broke off the jug of glory! NOOO!! Got back on it, got a new sequence, it's HARD. Also I cut open my fingertips. NNFN!

I still really want to do Cabaret, just pissed off I cut my fingers on it! I'll tape up and sort out the onsighting this week.

[chris_j_s]

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
STG: Keep to new training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos.

M: Rest
T: Circuits at Ingleton. YYFY, completed my circuit not once but three times with 4 mins between each go! After a short break tried my harder circuit - shut down at move 17 but it is much harder so quite pleased.
W: Repeaters.
T: Routes at Kendal. Onsighting - 6 routes up the big main wall, all around 6b+/6c.
F: Rest.
S: Circuits at Ingleton. Repeated 'easier' circuit 3 times. 3 goes on harder circuit - got about 4 or 5 moves further than earlier in the week. Back to easier circuit attempted to make it harder (eliminate a midway jug) with some success.
S: The Depot. Good marker for gains so far. Last time I was there (6 weeks ago?) I barely got a third of the way through the 7a circuit. This time did it first go. Tried the 7a+ and, after fluffing the crux once did that 2nd go. So spent the rest of the session on the 7b circuit and got to a high point of move 28 (out of 35) after maybe 7 or 8 burns. Tiredness brought about diminishing returns after that. After a 20 min break did some feet on campussing, then warmed down on the 6c and 6c+ circuits. Great session but feeling so boxed this morning!!

[duncan]

STG: Do 1 pull-up.  More E3s (Dreadnought, if I can find anyone interested in doing it).  F6c OS.
MTG: E5 OS (by June 2011).  F7b quick RP (by March 2011).
LTG: stay fit ie climb more than 6 months a year.

M: Toe-on pull-ups, shoulder stability stuff
T: Shoulder stability stuff
W: Arch bouldering to V3
T: Toe-on pull-ups, shoulder stability stuff
F:
S:
S: Swanage trad.ing.  Duff information (the east end of Boulder Ruckle IS tidal) the resulted in a low productivity day.  Managed an E2 roof, not my strongest suit, after 4 weeks away from real rock so ticking over. 

A bit surprised to discover last week that I can't do a pull-up (on a bar) so this is a new STG.  As the training focus for the next few months is about getting stronger I also need to think of some bouldering ST and MT goals.

What is realistic in, say, six months?   I'm an elderly tradder who has never bouldered much, has very weak arms and shoulders, OK finger strength, is good at 3D stuff, hopeless at anything steep.   Previous best effort is probably V4 (Bachar Cracker - so more like a trad. route) many years ago, currently managing what The Arch call V3 in about one session.  I can manage two or three short sessions a week, more would probably break me at present but I should tolerate more training by the end of the winter.  I have good wood and plastic facilities locally.  Rock is a bit harder to get to.  Trip(s) to Font. booked and planned over the next few months.

[andybfreeman]

Goals - as before. Hopefully next weekend will give me the opportunity to put on sighting a 7 to bed and with the sport season almost over it'll be time to get back to bouldering full time soon enough which should see 7B ticked.

M - circuits @ TCA. lots of laps of red 7a for fitness.
T - more circuits @ TCA + a few problems
W - worked late so did some weight and core at home
Th - problems session @ TCA. Made some good progress on a couple of greens that I'd written off as being too hard! Bit of weights and core when i got home
F - rest
Sa - day in the office so rest
Su - fun day pootling at portland. Got pretty much spanked but hadn't been on a rope for a few weeks so not too bad. on sighted an awesome 3* 6b+ and did a great 3* 7a second go (1st RP). finished up by falling off a 6c+ when a hand hold exploded on me which seemed to sum up what'd been a pretty half arsed day!

Weight down to 66.3kg this morning and average of 66.9kg for last week. Currently dieting and it's working! I plan to stick to my current plan of restricting calorie intake by having soup and bread for lunch for the next couple of weeks. I reckon a good target is 64 or 65kg as fighting weight, i.e. slightly less than i managed to get down to before my trip to Spain earlier this year.

Plan to spend next weekend doing more mileage to get my lead head back into shape before hopefully getting back to Anstey's to finally climb cider soak. Training wise I'm feeling a definite benefit from my focus on circuits so that'll continue, certainly until the wether craps out and the UK sport season comes to an end, although i need  to step up the difficulty for real relevance to my MTGs.
F -

[webbo]

Goal.
one day to be less of a fat git.

Mon.bouldering rockcity ok session did a new v5 and v6 repeated stuff i've done before.
Tue. nowt
Wed. bouldering rockcity did all the problems i've done v5 and above twice.
Thu.bouldering leeds wall as i have to pick daughter up from college.just repeated stuff.
Fri.nowt
Sat.leeds wall on my way to visit mother.tied a couple of the yellows no where.did the 10 problems(v5 to v6) that i'd done previously twice finished a sweaty mess.
Sun. nowt

low key week climbed quite well.

[Nibile]

good week under many aspects.

mon - rest. was smashed from previous week.
tue - sport climbing. tried my current project, slightly overhanging, 26 moves on crimps and monos, 8b. did it twice with two rests. well chuffed.
wed - beast. one armers, 4x6 sets.
thu - rest, kind of.
fri - rest.
sat - bouldering at amiata. did islero (7c/8a?) and the traverse (7b+?). YYFY.
sun - beast. 5x6 pull ups. 20, 35, big rung, mid two (big), small rung twice. tired.

comments. a very good week climbing wise. the 8b route is fantastic and I enjoyed it alot. the problems I climbed at amiata marked one of the best days ever. on the wave of these successes, yesterday I wanted to go and do the 8b route, but couldn't find a partner. will do it tomorrow.
KEEP THE FUCKING FAITH.

[shark]

Nibs - sounds like you are on fire 

[shark]

A bit surprised to discover last week that I can't do a pull-up (on a bar) so this is a new STG.  As the training focus for the next few months is about getting stronger I also need to think of some bouldering ST and MT goals.

What is realistic in, say, six months?   I'm an elderly tradder who has never bouldered much, has very weak arms and shoulders, OK finger strength, is good at 3D stuff, hopeless at anything steep.   Previous best effort is probably V4 (Bachar Cracker - so more like a trad. route) many years ago, currently managing what The Arch call V3 in about one session.  I can manage two or three short sessions a week, more would probably break me at present but I should tolerate more training by the end of the winter.  I have good wood and plastic facilities locally.  Rock is a bit harder to get to.  Trip(s) to Font. booked and planned over the next few months.

Impossible to answer re bouldering grades - better to set specific problems as goals. In terms of pull-ups 5-10 perhaps?? I expect you could as many on edges as a bar. It could be in part a neuro thing where your body has forgotten how to do them. How many did you used to be able to do ?

[Nibile]

Nibs - sounds like you are on fire 

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do the Cadshaw run (7.8km) in under 40 minutes
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.


M-  Work.  Jura.
T-  Work.  Jura.
W-  On a teambuilding course for 2 days.  Got very drunk in Grange over Sands bars.
T-  Hungover for day 2 of course.  WoB session in the evening with Nik and RGinns.  OK, limited by painful skin though.  No alcohol!!
F-  Work.  Wine.
S-  Crap weather so did Cadshaw run.  Managed the 7.8km in 38:05, 2 minutes quicker than PB and well under the 40 minute aim.  One STG ticked off!!  Wine to celebrate.
S-  Blob watching/ work at home.  Jura.

Monday weigh in of 85.0kg.  Need to get the weight loss aim back on the agenda.

[iain]

STG: Font in 3 weeks 
MTG: Get back on State of Play and Total Seizure now conditions are better
LTG: Freaky Ralph and Infinite Gravity

Mon: Bouldering and circuits, felt good
Tues: Yoga
Wed: Fingerboard and UNassisted one armers, first time for almost 3 years. Mostly pointless exercise but very satisfying
Thurs: Bouldering and crimptastic circuits
Fri: Yoga
Sat: Winspit, short day climbing in a 3 so no projecting but did manage to tick a hard 7a+ I'd been spanked on before and found a bit morpho.
Sun: Cuttings, provided lots of belays waiting for smeggy conditions to pass, then got a quick redpoint of a bouldery 7b+. Very satisfying and the best route I've done there.

Seem to be going quite well for me at the moment which bodes well for Font. Either that or I've inadvertently peaked and I'll fall apart just as I'm trying projects.