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five ten anasazi verde or blanco? (Read 16410 times)

Nibile

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five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 07, 2010, 08:57:45 pm
yo, I am thinking about wasting some money for some stiffer shoes for hard routes, because I am shit hot, ya know.
so, what's the difference between these two models, colour apart? nik told me the verdes are worse for heel hooking. which one will stretch less? which one is more precise?
thanks.

Norton Sharley

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#1 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 07, 2010, 09:33:28 pm
Greens are softer and stretch more.  Whites are stiffer, but soften up fairly quick but not to the same degree as greens.  Not sure about any difference in heal hooking though.  The sole on whites is a bit too thick so not as precise as the pinks.

Greens for grit, white for limestone.  Pinks were better though.  You should have called this thread Reservoir Boots?

Jim

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#2 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 07, 2010, 09:35:26 pm
What Norton said  :agree:
they both fit very differntly tho, the green suit a slightly wider foot with a high arch (which is what I have) and they are very comfortable.
I have tried whites on a number of times but didn't get on with them at all (ie they just don't fit my feet) because they are quite narrow

Paul B

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#3 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 07, 2010, 10:15:31 pm
Norton hit the nail on the head.

I've got both and the greens are a comfortable tradding shoe, the whites are reserved for slate and tricky limestone where they are outstanding.

The heels are pretty terrible in both when compared to dragons et. al.

Wipey Why

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#4 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 07, 2010, 11:06:50 pm
I had a pair of both, personally I preferred the greens as a general shoe and found the whites a bit too stiff. The tension band on the heel is much stiffer on the whites forcing your foot forward much more. The heels are pretty poor on both

Drew

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#5 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 07, 2010, 11:36:19 pm
The tension band on the heel is much stiffer on the whites forcing your foot forward much more.

This is because it's doubled up.  If you look closely, there are two bands around the Achilles.

Basically (as everyone else has said), if the fit of the Blancos is good, it'd be the better shoe for these hardcore routes you're getting on  :-\

butters

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#6 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 08, 2010, 12:35:41 am
I can only comment from a punter-esque level but what every one else said really - grit = greens & limestone = whites. From my experience the white feels stiffer through the toes (stiffer midsole?) whereas the green folds up like a turkish slipper on small limestone holds. Don't really feel able to comment on the heel band as I have only bought the whites a few weeks ago so it might give with time but it feels more aggressive on the Achilles to me. As for the fit comparison - they seem to be built on the same last to me but again that could simply be down to new vs old shoes or just me knowing bugger all.

Wipey Why

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#7 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 08, 2010, 08:41:25 am
The tension band on the heel is much stiffer on the whites forcing your foot forward much more.
This is because it's doubled up.  If you look closely, there are two bands around the Achilles.

Good knowledge, I never noticed that.

 


Nibile

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#8 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 08, 2010, 09:58:34 am
you got a problem, you ask ukb, you get the solution.
blanco's, that is.
this is a good place to be.


chris05

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#9 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 08, 2010, 10:01:29 am
you got a problem, you ask ukb, you get the solution.
blanco's, that is.
this is a good place to be.

Just like ukc then, no?  ;)

Nibile

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#10 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 08, 2010, 10:05:13 am
well, to be honest I asked them also. they came out with a third option:

chris05

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#11 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 08, 2010, 10:07:51 am
well, to be honest I asked them also. they came out with a third option:



 :lol:

An excelent suggestion, I'd ignore the advice given here...

Nibile

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#12 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 08, 2010, 04:58:24 pm
knowing how things are down here in a 3rd wold country, climbing wise, I phoned the shop before popping down, and asked about the blancos.
they don't have them, and they won't have them, "because they won't sell".
mothafuckas.

tobym

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#13 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 13, 2010, 03:37:35 pm
well, to be honest I asked them also. they came out with a third option:


they'd look ace with a six-inch heel 8)

Paul B

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#14 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 13, 2010, 03:54:08 pm
knowing how things are down here in a 3rd wold country, climbing wise, I phoned the shop before popping down, and asked about the blancos.
they don't have them, and they won't have them, "because they won't sell".
mothafuckas.

but you'll be over in the UK soon, where they DO sell them.

mrjonathanr

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#15 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 13, 2010, 04:12:14 pm
Why don't you buy some proper shoes?
I wonder if your local shop could get hold of some of these?
« Last Edit: September 13, 2010, 04:18:45 pm by mrjonathanr »

Krank

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#16 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 13, 2010, 05:02:50 pm
 :lol:

Nibile

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#17 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 13, 2010, 05:08:22 pm
paul, to buy five ten in uk pounds I'd better start saving now for 2013. but who knows they could be a treat after, let's say, climbing the ace.

mrjon, I know scarpa are good, but I don't know much about those models, because, again, they are not very common here. I am big five ten fan, and was looking for a stiff shoe just for steep limestone. I think scarpas are quite soft but could be way off about this.

the problem is: in town there are two shops. one is more focused on mountain, one more on sport. they never, never, order the new models, because "they won't sell". it's a shame and an idiocy, I know, but that's how it is here. imagine: they don't have dragons, they didn't have v10, and so on. it's a miracle they have solutions.

mrjonathanr

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#18 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 13, 2010, 07:23:30 pm
Hi Nibile, you've gotta admit they're right in a way: if they won't stock them, they definitely won't sell...
I've not used all the Scarpas, and the last seems to vary so you need to know they'll fit, but the Mago's 5.10 equivalent is the Dragon, and the Spectro's 5.10 equivalent is the Blanco (Spectro now discontinued here but really stiff and great on limestone). They fit me really well, both shoes are stiff, sticky, precise and well made.
The Stix and Booster, supposedly softer versions of the Mago- they don't fit me AT ALL. Different shape, tight in some spots and baggy in others. Weird. You've just got to try them on. Couldn't you have a debauched weekend in Milan or somewhere and go round all the climbing shops too?
Ciao  :)

Nibile

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#19 Re: five ten anasazi verde or blanco?
September 14, 2010, 02:37:09 pm
a weekend in Milano sounds good, also without shoes!
anyway,
it seems at the end of the month I could put my hands on a pair of these.

I've heard good things about them and they will also come for free, so all the better.

 

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