[uptown]

As Shark is away  , I'll get things going...

LTGs  - New high 8 bloc, sport and trad - uncertain of grades but all very hard, and very good. (2010/11)
MTGs - The dirty dozen sport list. (2010)
STGs - one off the DD, Onsight/flash 7c, three 8's. (AUGUST)

M - Yoga for 45 minutes. Spent the rest of the day in an aching daze.
T - Met Nik at the tor but motivation was low due to a sleepless night so moved into Cheedale. Bad conditions but a nice short day nonetheless, climbing Hungry eyes and Ouijaboard. Ouijaboard is superb but the bolts are terrible. I hear even McSte needed more than one go to do this so 8a is probably nearer the mark. All it needs is the upgrade and a charitable re-bolting local and it could turn into one of the more deservedly popular 8a's in the Peak.
W - Nothing.
T - Met Andy F at Kilnsey. Finished Grooved arete despite the poor conditions, and then did no more jumping... and detox before a pint in the tennants to celebrate.

F - Nothing.
S - Nothing.
S - Nothing.

A good week really despite just two sessions. The dd list is now 6 down 6 to go, and I'm still ticking great routes and improving despite no 'specific' training whatsoever. I may have achieved all of my August goals already but Soft-zero option and Ouijaboard might not make the grade officially?

[chris05]

STG: 7A & avoid further injury

I knew this week was going to be poor, my elbow started playing up after a good week last week so have rested climbing-wise. Also had a non-climbing mate come to stay this weekend which inevitable turned into a booze and food fest. Pleased to have fitted in a few runs before!

M: rest
T: 5m run & core (400 moves)
W: 5m run & core (400)
T: 6.8m flat trail run & core (400)
F: 5m run & core(400) + 
S: booze and food 
S: recovery and 5m walk

Hopefully get back climbing this week.

[Barratt]

Stg: fitness, strengh and injury free, optimism can't hurt!

Monday: run
Tuesday: run
Wednesday: decent session at works but should very sore, decide I need more rest/non climbing days.
Thursday: rest
Friday: rest
Saturday: badminton with mrs Barratt
Sunday: steady works session

Not a bad week, was really good to get back out running and will try and keep it up. Feel I've pushed the shoulder injury a bit too far. Seems like it can't handle volume of days on so will limit it the next few weeks and see how it goes.

[Andy F]

To all and sundry- thank you.

Mon- rest (with a massive hangover )
Tues - 4 pull-ups then gave up. Motivation to train has evaporated 
Wed - family
Thurs - Kilnsey. Warmed up then 3 good goes on Le Lapin, great moves and very different to GA. It was like learning how to climb all over again. Belayed Uptown on an impressive crushing spree. Flashed Detox, my first 7b+ flash for about 4 years, which was nice.
Fri - family
Sat - Kilnsey. Warmed up and had a couple of good goes on Le Lapin in pretty poor conditions, but still made progress and refinements to some sequences. Needs good conditions, should go soon. Belayed Neil P, Davo and Holgar on the crush. Still feeling post crush chill.

[Richie Crouch]

STG: Fix my fubared Finger
MTG: Climb pain free
LTG: Climb something hard

M: Weights/core/pressups circuit
T: Went to do an easy grit circuit but it rained a lot, ended up in Stoke Wall doing volume on jugs up to v6
W: Rest
T: Warton and Woodwell soloing the V0-V2 routes
F: Weights/core/pressups, wine
S: Rest, beer & wine
S: Short step wall session and pushed the boat up to a black! Beastmaker back 2 on RH; LA 1 arm hangs; pullups/chins/leg raises/levers/pressups

Finger is a tiny bit swelled like after Tuesdays session but hopefully it will regain its range of motion again tomorrow. Hoping this gradual stressing will help improve it and stop loads of scar tissue forming around the joint if thats whats happening. After reading 'one move too many' I'm beginning to think its either tendovaginitis or a chronic build up of synovial fluid around the PIP joint. Most frustrating and starting to worry I'm not going to climb much at all in font come Sept let alone next weekend in dartmoor 

[duncan]

STG: F6c+ os by end summer.
MTG: F7b rp by March 2011
MTG: E5 os by June 2011

M - Shoulder stability stuff
T - The Arch - gentle endurance session 4 x10 mins.
W - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Nothing
F - Chudleigh.  Easy trad. in the rain.
S - The Arch - good bouldering session
S - Shoulder stability stuff

Fifth weekend away on the trot curtailed by weather and a mild decline in psyche.   Nothing too demanding on rock (tho' damp Chudleigh VS ≡ Pembroke E3).  Proper training started with a decent bouldering session.  I've got a lot of catching up to do.

[i_a_coops]

STG:  improve PE on crimps, get up something in the Peak next weekend, Hall Of Mirrors, Secret Cabaret
MTG: get Euro-stamina and crush in Mallorca

M     shit session at Westway, far too busy - had to queue for the sodding campus board, let alone actual problems!
T      alcohol 
W
T      Euro-stamina session. Euro-stamina still hasn't happened to me.
F
S      Drive to Portland, get stuck in traffic, takes 7 hours to get there and it's wet. Dried out a couple of nice easy routes with a towel for a friend!
S      Cheddar. Meant to do something easier but was offered beta for Secret Cabaret, it's a bloody good route. Managed to crimp so hard that the back of my finger split open, happy I linked to the half way rest though.

I didn't mean to get another project tbh but at least it's got it out of my system so I can go to the peak next weekend and enjoy myself on routes that I can actually do. Also Secret Cabaret is fucking cool, think I'll need to get stronger at sustained crimping though. Same applies for Threadbare, which is also brilliant enough to come back to a few times!

[Ru]

I hear even McSte needed more than one go to do this so 8a is probably nearer the mark.

More than one session in fact.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Sell the old mat, run twice a week and boulder/wall twice a week.
WIll have to think about specific targets.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).



M-  Work, then some post holiday wine.
T-  Work, then some post holiday wine.
W-  An hour at Brownstones doing easy stuff with my trashed skin, then some post holiday wine.
T-  Did my 8.8km local  run, very slowly, then some post holiday wine.
F-  Work, then some post holiday wine.
S-  Blob sitting, tidying garden, motorcycle maintenece, then some post holiday wine.
S-  Went to Snowden with my battered skin, managed 3 7a problems so quite pleased.  Pub tea and a pint, then some post holiday wine.

Despite the lack of the regime I am 83.2kg this morning. 
Next week it's back to non-holiday mode, although I now have less time available than I used to.
If it's dry I'll need to get out and get on some of my MTGs.

[nik at work]

MTG: 8b/+, 8B (2010-ish)
STG: 21min 5K run, 6min 30s 400m swim, acquire a bike.

Missed last week I think.

Anyway
M - PB running, 5k up and down road course 22min 17s av. about 13.5kph. Felt awful and slow whilst running so surprised with the time.
T - Cornice with Uptown. Had a couple of working goes of That Was The Sea then had a redpoint, a sloppy slap to a hold saw me with a poor grip and the subsequent move saw me airborne. Should of, could of blah blah... Then time to go.
W - Cratcliffe/RHS child herding while wife and brother in law boulder.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - Another run another PB 5.5k up and down road course in 24min dead av. 13.75kph. This would give me a 5k time of about 21min 48s so inching closer to the 21min target.
S - nothing

[ummagumma]

STG's: Volume. Aerobic Training. Til End August. Technique Training.
MTG's: Font Trip in End October. Find projects.


M - Bouldering Indoors. Technique Training mostly and general fluting around on problems.
T - Rested
W - Rested
T - Bouldering Outdoors. First day out bouldering since injury. YYFY. Did so nice problems up to 6B. Skin is like shit.
F - Bouldering Outdoors. Spurred on from yesterday went for a repeat session. Problems up to 6B. Looked around for potential projects in the 7A range.
S - 350m multi-pitch. Epic day out with Peter. Got a whole lot of aerobic training out of that one. Excellent. Foot swelled up again at end of route.
S - Recovery day.

Great week. Really enjoyable. Not at my previous best (far from it) but am enjoying being back in the climbing zone.
Must keep the warm-up routine. Also on routes to be more determined and not to drop off.
Climbing Technique for next week also.

[galpinos]

LTG:       Font 7c, Onsight E5 & 7b, Redpoint 8a
Current Best:   Font 7b, Onsight E2 & 6c, Redpoint 7a+

M:   Cycle to work and back. Cycle to wall and back, 2.25hrs at the wall. Mixture of problems on the comp wall and some of the new red (V4-6) circuit. Felt a bit tired
T:   Cycle to work and back. 40 minute run.
W:   Cycle to wall and back, 2.5hrs at the wall. Repeat of Monday but feeling stronger. Finished of with two goes at the island traverse, fell of on the roof on first effort, jumped back on and got all the way round. Cruised the roof on the second go but fluffed the thin traverse at the end.
T:   Sod all due to tennis being cancelled.
F:   Tennis lesson.
S:   Cornice with Martin and Paul. Warmed up on the ^C and Max’s Wall then flashed a 6c+, moved onto the Cornice and managed to flash a 7a then failed to flash, then rp a 6c+. Tired
S:   Hung over.

Mixed week but chuffed with the routing on Saturday. Despite only having bouldered inside and not having routed much at all I managed to flash 1 grade below my current RP best. Need to crack on and to redpoint some harder stuff. New Goals:

STG:      Redpoint 7b
MTG:      Onsight E3

[uptown]

I hear even McSte needed more than one go to do this so 8a is probably nearer the mark.

More than one session in fact.

Does Ouijaboard make it into your massive list of uk sport routes of 8a and above then Ru?
Is Soft-zero option there too?
If so I can have the week off proper climbing and actually do some training.
Hope your shoulder's getting better btw.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7B, E5.
Goal for August: Mussel Beach (LPT), Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass). Right Wall & Resurrection back to back.

m. Suffolk for work, bouldered at The Crag, very impressive bouldering wall in wildest Suffolk.
t. Bouldered at The Crag.
w. nowt.
t. Quick campussing sesh at indi, 20 mins doing 1-5 match.
f. nowt, started re-bolting Pigeons Cave with Chris.
s. LPT, had first redpoint on Mussel and came up well short. Felt very underpowered and tired.
s. nowt.

Mmm.. have been feeling a distinct dip in energy the last two weeks, also didn't use good tactics on Mussel by not really bothering to properly work out the awkward clip before the crux or the start moves, thinking I was fit enough to climb through it, I'm not and my technique needs refining too. So much for the first redpoint challenge! Need to get this nailed so I can move on to the trad goodness.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Lockless, TSIABPB, Possibly The Sissy.. Basically Some stuff over F7b+ and an F8a before 2014...

M: Failed to do weights or yoga.
T: Climbed @ Rubicon - Narrowly failed to onsight Rubicon, did it next go pretty easily.. Got on The Sissy, managed a fair bit, couldn't work out the match but could be a good long term project as it's in a good location, not gonna be wet for the next 5 years and actually quite good.... Hmmmmm.
W: Failed to do weights or yoga - getting fed up of this kitchen rebuild now!
T: Bouldering @ The Works - Crap session, so unpsyched for indoors these days. Need to sort that out and get some structure to my  training to keep motivated I reckon.
F: Failed to do weights or yoga.
S: Drove out to the Dale with family on the promise of a nice day (met office ). Turned up at car park in the pissing rain, drove GF and boy back to Shef... Heard it was actually dry so drove back on me own. Did a 6b+ on 2 tier and had 3 goes on lockless, undercut felt greasy and made very little progress (sorted out a more eficient foot sequence to start the hard bit but failed to do much else - still did all the moves though so s'all good training). 
S: Failed to do weights or yoga.

Not the worst or best week all told... Nice to do something (Rubicon) and good to find an F8a that feels potentially doable (albiet still a very long way off). Would have liked to have made more progress on lockless tho.. Actually did a F6b+ with no tape on the dodgy finger by accident (forgot), which indicated it's well and truly on the mend...

This week: Pull the finger out!

:D

[chris_j_s]

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
STG: Keep to new training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos.

M: Cicuits at ingleton. Playing with the difficulty at the moment but have worked out a 30+ move circuit which I can do in 3 overlapping sections.
T: rest
W: More cicuits on Castleberg - a 35 mover which I can get to move 28 on currently - did that 5 times with rests of 3 mins.
T: Rest
F:  a.m. Repeaters. Experimental session to try and gauge what intensity to go for in these sessions. May make these longer than the beastmaker 1min 10 secs for more of a burn perhaps more lik 2 minutes...
S + S: Walks on both days nothing challenging.

Family visits for 6 out of 7 days this week meant getting any training in was really hard work but managed to get in a few early morning sessions. More visitors due next weekend but nothing during the week so need to knuckle down and get some hard work done...

[Charles]

STG - Continue weight loss (goal = 154lbs)  > Onsight F7a > Improve Power Endurance
MTG - Get proper fit for Mallorca in September > Onsight F7b (Waikiki or Phantomas)
LTG - F8a

Monday - nowt.
Tuesday - Depot. Skin sore. Played about on lots of things.
Wednesday - nowt.
Thursday - Trow Gill. Did a couple of alright routes.
Friday - nowt.
Saturday - nowt.
Sunday - Troller's Gill. Amazing crag. Tried to onsight F7a and cocked up sequence at the top. Good to try and fall off though.

[andybfreeman]

Goals = as before

M - deadhangs and pyramids of pull ups
T - more of the same
W - light recruitment session on fingerboard
Th - TCA comp. climbed like a punter and overran so lost points. Good fun but poor performance. Leg still sore
F - rest
Sa - Torbryan in the drizzle. Worked moves on Thread Flintstone but didn't readpoint
Su - rained off at Torbryan. Managed a couple of hours of Dartmoor bouldering before the rain came. Headed to Chudleigh for circuits at Pixies Hole and Gully Wall

Generally a pretty shit week for training and climbing. Rope burns from last weekend still not healed which is very annoying.
Away for a mate's stag next weekend so need to hit the circuits hard while I'm in Bristol and able to train.

[Nibile]

good week.
mon - beastmaker. 10x6: front two small, mid two small, back three small rung, back two. completed all the sets, with new PB on mid and back two.
tue - beastmaker. one armers on jug. 5 sets.
wed - top roping. six routes from 6c+ to 7b. good.
thu - top roping. a 7b and a project. very tired.
fri - rest and drive to the Dolomites.
sat - should have done a route, bouldered instead. one project ticked.
sun - bouldering in the Dolomites again. volume: many problems from 7a to 7b+.

comments: I am very very tired after the weekend. very very pleased also. will rest for at least two days. then we will see.

[iain]

No climbing was going to happen so just a training week

M: Repeaters, v.tired after weekend but good to do
T: rest
W: Fingerboard and assisted one armers, felt good
T: Routes and falling practice, ok volume but climbing like a thug
F: rest
S: DIY shopping, woohoo    Managed to fit in some fingerboard and assisted one armers, new pb session, unexpected
S: DIY'ing 

Getting away for an extra long weekend over the bank holiday and wife wants to go climbing 
Finger's crossed for some decent weather somewhere.

[nai]

August goals - 7c, OS 7a, E3
2010 goals - 7C, 8a (feels unlikely after plays on two), E4

m
T - Darius and Delicatessen at High Tor. awesome day.
W - WCJ Cornice via Rubicon, did Zeitgeist 1st RP, 1st 7b in a day 20 minutes.  Played on Free Monster, did all the moves except the one to the crimps but it felt waaaay too hard for me right now (and will probably be wet soon anyway).
t
F - Tor - had a second go on Toadside and worked out a solid sequence for the crux, now ready to RP it.
S - PE fingerboard session. 10 hangs of 7s, 3s rest. Rest 1 minute, repeat 10 times.
s -

Great start to the week, what a route Darius is, now for Lyme Cryme... Bit downhill afer that, I was hoping to get down to Cheedale again but couldn't persuade anybody.  This is now the last week of my sabbatical, I have a lot of loose ends to tidy up and it's raining.  I think Sturgeon would be the priority but what gets done/tried will largely depend on what's dry and where partners can be persuaded to go.

[Joe]

Hi, new here, couple of friends advised me to join in, so here is last week!


STG – Train more consistently/harder, improve technique, climb more 7a/7a+, get mileage on rock
MTG – Climb 7b, (House Burning Down/Bitter and Twisted) on-sight 7a
LTG – Climb 7c, climb 8a within 3 years

M – Gollum’s cave for 1.5 hours in evening. Tired from travelling since 2am so did very little but worked on some moves on 7a+ circuit with a lot of sequence help.
T – Gollum’s cave, (1 hour or less). Did some more of the moves. I’ve done every move in the circuit now. Can’t link for shit! Quite poor...
W – Rest day...
T – Cheddar gorge. 6c in 3 goes. Need to be better at reading sequences from below. Started working on Bluepoint. Awesome 7a+, didn’t quite do all the moves, still need to work out one foot movement, but should go next time.
F – Moving house next day.
S – Moving house.
S – Nothing...

[Muenchener]

STG: Rehab left ring finger pulley injury
MTG: F6b os
LTG: F7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Yoga to get some leg movement back after big mountaineering weekend; ice finger.
T: Wall. Mileage on easy routes. ("Mileage" not as literally as at the weekend) Finger less sore than last week.
W: Ride bike to work, about 25km round trip. Puncture on the way home. Pita; own fault for riding around town on skinny racing tyres instead of kevlar-belted urban commuters. Order kevlar-belted urban commuters on ebay. Ice finger
T: Weighted pullups, handstands, core. Ice finger.
F: Finger Rehab Through Mountaineering continues with a full moon hike up the Grosse Arnspitze for a bivi and early start tomorrow on:
S: Arnspitze traverse UIAA II (rp 2nd go, after last year's attempt when my mate didn't fancy an exposed steep bit with big boots, rucksack & no rope). Early finish (hence the bivi) to collect wife & son from airport after trip away.
S. Weighted pullups. Yoga. Ice finger.

Next week: single parent (wife away on business trip). Training Plan: Finger Rehab Through Involuntary Resting

[webbo]

Mon. nothing tired from yesterday also planning to go out tomorrow.
Tue.wall as its raining just do laps of stuff i've done before.
Wed. wall repeating harder stuff.
Thu.looking at houses again.
Fri.nothing.celibrate getting offer on house excepted.
Sat.gazumped.bouldering at widdop a bit warm and boggy under foot.don't get up anything hard did a v5 on top boulders.get roped in to cutting trees down at wifes mate when i get in.
Sun. shoulders on fire from yesterdays lumberjacking.out on bike 2hrs 20 mins.
a bit of a shitty week both training and otherwise.

[i_a_coops]

Welcome to Power Club Joe! Now we just need to get Jacob on board...

Climb 7b, (House Burning Down)

Loving that downgrade btw!