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UKB Power Club Week 26 ( 9th-15th Aug) (Read 13379 times)

shark

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UKB Power Club Week 26 ( 9th-15th Aug)
August 15, 2010, 10:44:32 pm
Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.2-4

M.
T. Chee Dale Eve. Torrid time on Toys for the Boys
W.
T. Tor. Eve. Reacquainted with the Toilet.
F.
S.Foundry with boys. Slightly hungover. Quick boulder. PM Drove to Somerset   
S.Let the boys drive the car in a field. Minor altercation with a hedge.  :whistle: PM. Left kids in Somerset. Drove back

Failed to pull my finger out this week. Now have 2 weeks without the kids. Long weekend in Rome next weekend with missus. 8)

Monolith

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STG's: Get back moving after months of bare activity. Lots of route volume to induce muscles. Do Mudjakeewis.
MTG's: Get boulder project done in Sep/Oct when cooler temps.
LTGS: Boulder-wise some quality 8a's in Chironico and a tick of something hard and classic would be nice on the end of a rope.

Mon - Went on fingerboard. Did weighted pulls and hangs. Relatively good session but felt a tad lethargic.
Tue - Rested
Wed - Went to the wall for the first time in about a year. Felt OK but session fitness was poor compared to usual. Loved some of the new problems on the revamped step wall. Nice just to work way through some volume climbing. Noticed footwork improvement (from brief routing foray?)
Thur - Rested
Fri - Rested
Sat - Rested
Sun - Light fingerboard session as procured three days roofing work tomorrow to weds.

Ticked over nicely this week. Gave myself three days rest from first proper indoor session in a while. Reminded how different it feels to rock climbing. Session I did on fingerboard today was a quick blast just to keep the system active. 30 secs hang, 30 secs rest, 30 secs hang, 30 secs rest style... and pullups on rung. No sessions on Mudjakeewis as wanted to work PE so top section doesn't leave me defecating on my belayer. Fear probably not gone.

Psyched to have scored work this week and got a campervan hit to Wales coming up. Be nice to get out a bit.

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Short term goals
Climb 10 font 7s in Bleau (August trip)- a bit ambitious maybe.  Only manage 8 out of the 10

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).



M-  Spent a while failing on Musclor at Buthiers Canard, got a flapper and left.  Beer/ wine
T-  Maunoury- Did L'Œil de Boîte dans l'Épaule, then did Lève la Patte up at Cannon inthe afternoon.  Then failure.  Beer/ wine.
W-  Disney, pissed it down.  Beer/wine.
T-  Early rain gave way to failure at Isatis.  Shoulders fell off.  Beer/wine.
F-  Last day, Friday 13th.  Failure at Buthiers, Racher aux Oiseaux and then Sabots where it rained very badly.  Gave it all up as a bad job.  Beer/wine.
S-  Over 500 miles driven plus ferry etc.  Very tired.  Wine.
S-  Catch up with friends- pub tea and beer/ wine.  Work tomorrow, boo hoo.

robertostallioni

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No beer on Saturday? W T F?

Is this some sort of deprivation diet?

i_a_coops

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STG: Climb lots, more 7cs, go to Raven Tor
MTG: Get Euro-stamina and crush Mallorca DWS in September, 7c+, 5k in 20 min
LTG: Keep improving, preferably for ever.

M     Westway bouldering/PE, core
T      Westway bouldering/PE,  finally manage V6 at the end of a circuit instead of at the beginning, core
W     Football with uncoordinated physicists  8)
T      Westway, Euro-stamina session with Jacob (lapping up and down steep routes), stamina slowly getting better, but still shit
F      core
S      Torbryan in the rain. Take far too long on Thread Flintstone, fall off last hard move of Threadbare LH (the hold was wet).
S      2 mile run, crunches/1 arm press ups/ plank pyramid scheme thing. Somehow suspect it's not worth the discomfort.

I'd say my stamina/PE has gone from absolute shite to fairly bad (given that I managed 22m route, previously unthinkable even at 7a+). Got to get back on the campus board next week too, since climbing is basically training for campusing (actually, rungs 2,3,4,6,7 and 8 are all just training for 1,5 and 9...) :P

Andy F

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Mon - rest
Tues - Fingerboarding
Wed - rest

Thurs - Kilnsey. Bolt to bolt GA, first redpoint wake up at the jug, realise where I am, shake out lots, get the crimp. Pull and fail. 2nd and 3rd RP's get to the jug. Powerfade. Do Comedy putting the clips in, fall going for the cigar 10 mins later.
Fri - intend to finger board, feel too battered.
Sat - chill. Enjoy being a dad.

Sun - Kilnsey. Bolt to bolt GA. Belay Davo for 20 mins.

Tie in.
Breath.
Liquid chalk.

Flake. Pocket. Jugs. Undercut. Crimp. Sidepull. Sloper. Pocket. Clip. Sidepull. Sidepull. Crimpy pocket. Undercut. Good hold. Feet up. Clip. Breathe. Sidepull. Foot up. Pinch. Feet up. Pinch. Foot up. Jug. Clip. Breathe. Sort hands. Breathe. LF move, RF move, Slap LH. Crimp LH, push RH, rock, rock rock.

The crimp feels good, I feel strong. Is it now...

Davo is calling to me: Keep going. Believe.

Listen. Look. The crimp is closer than I realise. Reach. It's not far. Pex is calling.

Pull down on my LH. The crimp is close, get it.  RH crimp, RH bone the crimp. LF up on jug. Concentrate. Snap my LH into the flake. Swap hands. LH micro jug, swap feet. RH micro jug, LF on nubbin, body tension, LH jug, RF on crimp, LF ledge. LH still in jug, breathe, clip belay. Scream YYFY.
 
4 years of effort distilled into less the 3 minutes of climbing.

Still buzzing as I type.

Oh, 2 goes on Le lapin,sort the moves, need to go back and tick.

Best day every.... oh yes.

Muenchener

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STG: Rehab left ring finger pulley injury  :(
MTG: F6b os
LTG: F7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Rings, core, ice finger.
T: Rest. Ice finger
W: Wall. Mileage on easy routes. Technique theme for today: climb without weighting left ring finger. Groundbreaking discovery: you are what you train. The wall I am at today has 15 metre routes. The wall I usually go to has 12 metre routes. My body is a finely tuned machine for immediately feeling pumped at 13 metres, no matter how easy the route. Ice finger.
T: 25 mins step-ups w/rucksack & big boots. Even more boring than running, but a lot more relevant to hauling self & gear up to starts of classic routes at local crags. Ice finger.
F: Rest prior to Big Mountaineering Day tomorrow. Ice finger.
S: Jubiläumsgrat, Zugspitze (os). UIAA III-, 8km, 1400 metres height gain. (Stamina route) Too slow for last lift down from Zugspitz summit in the afternoon, so stay at (rather grotty, not recommended) Alpine Club hut on summit, planning to get lift down in the morning.
S: Wake up and feel like walking down instead. Do so via Reintal. Reintalanger hut is in an idyllic situation, but Bloody Long Way. Ice finger.
« Last Edit: August 16, 2010, 07:09:17 am by Muenchener »

duncan

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STG: E3 by end of summer
MTG: E5 os by June 2011

M - Sore ring finger. Rest
T - Rest
W - Shoulder stability work
T - Shoulder stability work
F - Pembroke: 4 routes inc. Stand By To Boogie (E3) [and epic on The Whaler at Stackpole: benighted, prussiking out, back to hut for 2am].
S - Pembroke: easy day
S - Shoulder stability work

Rest week from training due to sore finger.  Achieved STG.  Embarrassingly, and for no good reason, this is my first proper E3 in 5 years.  Proof perhaps that a digging a hole motivation programme works.  This is still only F6b ie mediocre.  Now comes the hard part: get stronger without breaking.

New STG: F6c+ os by end summer. 
New MTG: F7b rp by March 2011
MTG: E5 os by June 2011

Three Nine

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Good work Andy F

STG: The Mightier, 7B blocs in Scotland, more 7b+ onsights
MTG: Postman Pat before Europe (Nov), 8as and 7c onsights in Europe
LTG: Tuppence 2011

M Rained off at Cheddar (felt ruined anyway), non-training session at TCA
T rest, cardio 20mins run
W power 45, still getting left behind
T am deadhangs 1 hour, pm a few 7a+ish circuits at Gollum's. Going to try do this a bit more.
F rest, cardio 20 mins
S Anstey's, dodgy weather. Sort out sequence on 7c+ before it gets piss wet. Couple of goes on a new and hard (both for me) redpoint project. Do all moves except baffling crux.
S Anstey's blazing heat. Remove clips from 7c+, sack it to LQP. Do a classic 7a+ solo. Potter at Pixies and Gulley wall.

Barratt

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STG: 100% fitness
LTG: 7b

Mon: Works, hung over so did easy brown circuit in under an hour, felt sick and wanted to die.
Tues: Rest
Wed: Works, general session
Thur: Rest
Fri: Works, easy brown circuit with a few yellows chucked in for good measure
Sat: Badminton with the Mrs Barratt
Sun: Works, tried to do all 40 problems of purple circuit (6b to 7a+) in under 2hrs. Dropped 10 and felt destroyed by end, need to improve fitness!

Good week. Shoulder complaining at the amount of work its being forced to do but seems to be ok with a days rest. Most importantly its been good fun! Few more days rest this week i think, maybe a couple of PE sessions as I've neglected recently.

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STG's: Volume. Aerobic Training. Til End August. Technique Training.
MTG's: Font Trip in End October. Find projects.
LTGS: Be a beast.

M - Routes. Tired after weekend. Feel shattered.
T - Rested
W - Fingerboard. Pull up * 8. 2min rests
Thur - Rested
F - Friends arrived for weekend. Drinking + Eating.
S - Drinking + Eating. Little hike during the day.
S - Routes. Long Routes. Pump-ville.

Lightish week.
Must start more warm-ups in routine. Also on routes to be more determined and not to drop off.
Climbing Technique for next week will be starting momentum using legs and precise feet.

tomtom

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Back on the horse again after 2-3 weeks work enforced absence...

M: Recover from jetlag and stag do.
T: Aaargh. Work.
W: Tentative trip to Harmers wood. Climbed surprisingly well - got further on 7b (on RH wall) than ever before - quite a bit further.
T: Post work trip to Hobby moor - still testing out the underused hands/arms. Did full traverse - felt f*cked. But climbing well.
F: Rest
S: Rest
Sun: Plantation with Tris & family. Warm. Greasy. Midgy. Qualidy (not). Failed on most things, realised how soft my hands were  ;D

Time to hit the beastmaker to get some strength back before the grit season starts again....

galpinos

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WE 15/8/10

LTG:       Font 7c, Onsight E5 & 7b, Redpoint 8a
Current Best:   Font 7b, Onsight E2 & 6c, Redpoint 7a+

M:   Cycle to wall and back, 2.25hrs at the wall. Mainly just tried hard (for me) stuff on the comp wall and other steep walls. Got close on the soft green V7 and a couple of moves of the top of the purple V6. Finished with an attempt on the island traverse. 1 fall, jumped back on then fell off the thin traverse.
T:   Cycle to work and back. Didn’t run when I got home as I was feeling rubbish.
W:   Cycle to work and back, cycle to wall and back, 2hrs at the wall feeling very weak and tired. Got even closer to the soft green from Monday, made no progress on anything else hard and struggled on the traverses. Not a great session.
T:   30 min fast run before mates came round to dinner. Drank too much.
F:   1 hr tennis lesson.
S:   Really frustrating day. Failed to get the van sorted, lots of faffing meant I got out to Stoney late. Warmed up quickly then did Double Scotch, E2 5b. Was just belaying Falling Down when I found out the bike rack on my car had caused the back windscreen on my car to smash. Cut the session short and headed home to sort. Went out and ate and drank too much to compensate.
S:   Picked the car up then headed over to Llandegla, Did the black circuit with the missus. Really good, confidence building every time.

Struggled on the second indoor session of the week and my legs don’t seen to be recovering well from all the cycling. Couldn’t face cycling in on Friday so only managed two days of cycling to work this week – poor show. Messed up Saturday but chuffed with Double Scotch. Felt calm on the lead and avoided getting pumped. Still not climbing as well as I should be but was better so can’t complain. Need to sort some STG and MTGs.

roddersm

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STG Goals(2010):

Trad: Zodiac E2 5c, Other Fish E4 6b. Left Wall ?
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
Leftovers 7a+.
sport:  f7a @ Buoux, starter 6b+, rev de fer 6b+,biscotte margerinne 6b+, mirroir du fou 6c+ at verdon. Anyone know if voie fawcett is still there?

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: o/s 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: 7C .

Mon  Rest.
Tue   Rest.
Wed Rest
Thur Climbing wall 2 hrs. Bouldering and stamina/PE circuits.
Fri    Rest
Sat   Go to local crag to check out some climbs only for a dozen gardai to turn up and use heavy handed tactics to evict some wild campers off the land. Don't fancy spending a night in the cells so go to another crag and solo some Severes. Fuck sake access issues seem to be spreading in donegal. These areas used to be deserted now the increased popularity in the outdoors seems to be damaging access to crags that have been climbed on for years.
Sun  Back off a loose and shitty E1. Don't fancy breaking my legs 4 days before heading to buoux. Go home. 1.5 hrs in the wall followed by 1 hr run (9 mile approx) in the midday 25 dgree heat. Fucked.

Felt ill and weak with some kind of virus so didn't train most of the week. Got seriously burned off at the wall on thursday by one of my climbing partners for france. NNFN. Despite the good weather took it easy over the weekend as I want to stay fresh for my 1st visit to buoux on thursday YYFY. Decent wall session sunday followed by a real sufferfest run in afternoon heat to get a bit of acclimatization in for france :), which judging by how my climbing partners are going is going to be 2 weeks of real pain and suffering. Plan is buoux on Thursday for a few days where I'm going to try and tick 7a or 7a+, if the heat will allow. Then off to the verdon were I hope to tick some classics up to around 6b+/c in the gorge and maybe try some harder stuff at the surrounding crags. Depending how it goes might finish up with a couple of days a buoux again.   

Will re-evaluate the rest of year goals after france to decide weather to focus on sport/trad or bouldering (or all 3) for the rest of the year. Keen to get to siurana to tick bistec de biceps but also a trip to wales to finally do left wall or the peak is tempting. Unfortunately not enough holidays left to do both. 

webbo

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Mon. wall did repeats i.e. 6 problems times 3.
Tue.almscliff climbed quite well.did si's arete again previously having done this 6 years ago after many attempts.so quite pleased.
Wed.nowt.
Thu. wall felt tired just repeated stuff.
Fri.nowt.
Sat.looking at houses with the missus.
sun.leeds wall on the way to visit mother.climbed ok repeating most of the stuff i've done before.also flashed the 4 hardest problems from the kids comp.
not a bad week.i appear to be climbing as well as i did 6 years ago rather than getting worse and also i might be able to hold my own in a bouldering comp for 6 year olds.

Richie Crouch

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STG: Fix my fubared Finger
MTG: Climb pain free, Eclipse (CDC), Modulor (sablons), Hotline (de la reine), Gargantoit assis (houx)
LTG: In Hell, Halfway House, Iron Man, Clyde

M: Rest finger
T: Rest finger
W: Rest finger
T: Got bored of rest and did a long weights/pullups/core/presups session in am. Slept in afternoon then watched BTT and got my font psyche on, went down the wall and had a beastmaker session avoiding using the dodgy digit of doom. More corework at end of session.
F: Rest
S: warmup on traversing and easier step wall problems up to v5 then go up and have a beastmaker session avoiding any use of the ddod again! My 1 arm left arm deadhangs are coming on very well. Can do a front on hang 5 sec into 1 armer now on it off the 1st joint but still feel weak generally. Keen to keep improving this to balance out the strength so it catches up with my right arm (which is developing a strong back 2, seeing as middle finger is out of action!). A lot of Cider/beer..etc in evening.
S: Wake up still pissed/pretty rough. Almost sick but hold it in and manage to open the shop in time. Have pulled my right calf (from doing something stupid last night no doubt)!

A better week than last. Finger injury is still there but receding ever so slightly. Need to keep careful and stick to fingerboarding without it and avoid any crimping/hard bouldering for a good while yet. Hoping to be able to use it come mid Sep, which is now a Font trip instead of swiss seeing as 2 of the team have finger injuries and font has a bit more in terms of slabs/easier things to do if its still bad.

chris05

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Aims: Avoid more finger injuries and work on elbows
         Boulder 7a

M: 5m run, weights for arms & core (400 moves)
T: rest
W: 5m run, bouldering at Seans roof and Rubicon
T: 5m run & core (400)
F: bouldering at Bell Hagg
S: rest
S: 8m run & bouldering at Pleasley Vale

Had a good week, climbed a nice range of problems up to (easy)6c and the fingers felt quite good although still require care. Visited a few esoteric crags which was nice. Need to get the 7a done, and have a few problems in mind.

Duncan Disorderly

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Goals: As before...

M: Weights + Yoga - Upped the weight to 16Kg, hypertrophy seems to be working a bit so will do another week or so of this then it's on to power and fingers I think.
T: GF's Bday - Climbing vetoed.
W: House shizzle
T: Works - Aimed to get a new circuit wired as the 6c is too easy, stupidly did this twice (no rest), got a horrendous flash pump that screwed me for the rest of the session. Gave up after a bit of flailing on the 7a+ and did 25 new browns... 2 pints of pictish in the sheaf and a chicken sandwich.
F: Yoga
S: Nowt
S: Yoga AM, Rubicon PM - Got on Salar as couldn't get anyone on Lockless..................... Couldn't do the crux move any which way! Punching above me weight with this I feel but good to try these things.. Feel trashed today so s'all good training!

Not a bad week. Ended up at Rubicon again, against my better judgment, always wanted to have a look at Salar but wasn't quite prepared for it feeling that hard (soft 8a is still f*cking hard 7c+ though I suppose;-). Might have another go in a bit, maybe a bit of beta might make it seem easier but I wouldn't bank on it.. Good news is that I actually climbed tapeless on Thus for half the session with no real pain in the offending finger.. Bonus!

This week.. Get back on Lockless! Weights, Yoga... Circuits if wet, maybe a run?

:D

Doylo

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MTG: Diamond Project
LTG: Improve

M - Ansteys, try CS again, fall off final section a few times. Flash Empire as darkness descends. Mega route.
T - Work/Rest
W - Ansteys, fall off CS with a jug at the top in my hand. Dissapointing!
T - Work
F - Work, travel home.
S - Nought
S - Pigeons, first redpoint on Stark drop the last move but rip a big flapper in the pinky which basically stops any more good redpoints.  Go over to Elephants and do Pure Conjecture, very nice 7a.

Foot off the gas on the training front this week but more rock time which is never bad. Struggling to get anything ticked despite feeling ok.

chris_j_s

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Fantastic end to the week Andy F - nice one!

Big changes required for me after this week as will become clear. Have dropped the weight figure off here because a) I haven't checked it this week and b) weight in the low 60's is clearly not something thats holding me back and I should be focussing elsewhere.

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
STG: Keep to Rejig training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos.

M: a.m - strength session
T: rest
W: a.m - Strength session.
T: Ingleton bouldering.
F:  Coaching day with Steve McClure. Mega useful day, my footwork was given a complete going over (with immediate effect - steep-ish 6c onsight felt suddenly much easier!) which has given me lots to think about. Basically though, the key thing I lacked was power endurance and this became more and more apparent as the day went on. Having tried and subsequently given up on power endurance out of frustration earlier in the year I now have a better idea where I was going wrong and the aim for the next 8 weeks has to be to hit this really hard before Kalymnos...
S + S: Manic DIYing to get finished in time for visitors next week.


andybfreeman

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STG - more mileage for fitness and route smarts, on sight 7a, boulder 7B
MTG - Cider Soak this season
LTG - consolidate at 8a, boulder 7C, then onwards and upwards

M - decent session of circuits and problems at TCA
T -another session at TCA, very hot so worked round the new black circuit of problems
W - decent session on Mark's board
Th - session at TCA some circuits and then worked the moves on some of the new whites
F - rest
Sa - Ansteys. made good progress on CS on first 2 goes, revised my sequence for the crux which added a hand move but seemed to work well. All great until i puntered the final clip before the chains then manged to fall from the jug as my heel slipped and i swung, fell awkwardly and caught the rope under my left leg. Ended up with a savage rope burns across the back of my knee and up my thigh and a gushing friction flapper on my right hand. Sacked off the rest of the day but consoled myself with an excellent meal and a decent enough bottle of wine
Su - leg bandaged but still very sore. hurt when traversing which, combined withthe hordes descending, destroyed my psyche. spent day watching and reading

Weight down to 66.9kg average for the week.

Hoping that the leg gets better quickly so i can do some non-deadhanging based training this week but I'll have to see how that goes!

Nibile

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good week all in all.
mon - rest.
tue - rest.
wed - top roping session. it was boiling, overcast and still. nightmare. found a new sequence on the 8a+. still tricky after, though.
thu - top roping session. better, but still hot, plus being eaten alive by mosquitos. nothing hard.
fri - rest. EDIT - NO. beastmaker. one armers and one arm dead hangs. good vibes.
sat - beastmaker session. excellent. big big gains. completed all the middle finger small monos sets; the same with back two. more volume. nailed a hour long - or so it seemed - monos front lever. then partied hard.
sun - hungover and tired. rest.

comments. the start of the week felt bad, but then it got better, with the beastmaker sessions being the highlight. I am satisfied. my main two goals now are a long boulder problem and a route or two at around 20 moves. so the focus is in some volume, but still with a eye on power.
we will see, the boulder is a short term goal, the routes will go in autumn.
keep the fucking faith, and boom.

petejh

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Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7B, E5.
Goal for August: Mussel Beach (LPT), Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass). Right Wall & Resurrection back to back.

m. nowt.
t. nowt
w. nowt.
t. nowt.
f. Cave, linked left wall high from crossover to finish twice, good stuff and useful beta for attempting Highlife later in the year.
s. Working and bolting gideon project, 7 hours hanging on rope 'till exhausted, and found out after 5 days of effort that it's probably beyond me. Fucker.
s. LPT, too boxed from yesterday to do anything 'cept belay. Idiot.

My worst week this year, should have been sending Mussel Beach on Sunday but fucked myself up on Saturday, silly boy.

Ru

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Shoulder still not right, so another week of little climbing.

M. Nowt/work/therabanding.
T. Nowt/work/therabanding.
W. Nowt/work/therabanding.
T. Nowt/work/therabanding.
F. Nowt/work/therabanding.
S. Tor for about 1 hour. Did a spot of bouldering. Took the wife to the caf.
S. Cheedale. Did an 8a+ but not that much climbing in total. Feel weak and unfit. Shoulder went crunch on one move, but not in a painful/unstable feeling way. It's a bit sore today though.

iain

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STG: Some quick projecting
MTG: Onsight 7b regularly, not sure I've made much progress towards this
LTG: Freaky Ralph and Infinite Gravity

M: Nowt
T: Thought about doing something
W: Fingerboard
T: Routes and falling practice, felt tired
F: Cooked a nice meal
S: Anstey's, pumped out on Empire onsight failing to find the jugs after the crux, did next go. Went bolt to bolt on The Lynch with some good beta, fluffed first RP.
S: Played to strengths by doing The Lynch first thing, later played to weaknesses by falling off 7b slab thing before second bolt.

Aims for this week: Forget slab horror in comforting embrace of fingerboard

nai

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remaining August goals - RP 7c, OS 7a, E3
2010 goals - 8a (now feels unlikely after first acquaintance with one), 7C, E4

M
T - Went back to try Sturgeon confident that it would go easily after Friday's effort but got nowhere near.  In retrospect I think I rushed into it without properly reacquainting myself with the routes intricasies (footwork & clips mostly) so ended up relearning on redpoint.  Showed myself up as a novice redpointer there I think.
W - went exploring the last few bits of Burbage North I'd not visited, had a fun couple of hours soloing 10 new (to me) routes.
T
F - couple of hours at Rubicon, retro flashed the roof but was shut down by usually doable problems and by a first crack at HFC.  Seems three months of route climbing is leaving me weak.
S - slow journey to Wales, um & arr a lot and eventually end up at Gogarth, couple of nice routes on South Stack
S - um & arr a lot and go to Dinas Mot because it's dry, couple of nice routes on the nose, slow drive home.

Shame about Sturgeon but five days out and a weekend away so musn't grumble.

Luthor

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goals - stay fit for the grit!

m
t
w - bouldering session at the works
t
f - bouldering session at the works
s
s

Another quiet climbing week as busy otherwise. Couple of good sessions at the works, proper warm up and then working through the yellow circuit, even managing to tick some :-)

uptown

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Congrats to Andy F - inspiration for us all.  :beer2:

I had a familiarisation week on Love amongst the butterflies and Grooved arete, and managed Bored of the lies too, an excellent bit of climbing. Also managed some chin-ups whilst at Becketts park playground with A, combined with a 2mile pushchair circuit.

Charles

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Monday - nowt
Tuesday - nowt
Wednesday - went to London
Thursday - Depot. Managed to flash F7a+ circuit and do F7b+ circuit first go. Chuffed but ruined.
Friday - nowt
Saturday - beers.
Sunday - Dib Scar. 5 routes onsight from F5 - F6c+.


A reasonable week in terms of quality over quantity. I need to start trying to onsight harder things. When time is limited though, it's hard to persuade yourself to spend half that time failing.

shark

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I'm away for a dirty weekend till next tues so please start without me..

boulderingbacon

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stg get down to 14 stone
ltg get my old strength back and climb a 7a by the end of the year

monday some pullups and fingerboard
tuesday rested(would normally run but got a skin infection so not allowed to sweat else it will spread)
wednesday fingerboard, pull ups, pressups, situps
thursday just a few pull ups to keep loose
friday rested
saturday flexibility exercises and some fingerboarding
sunday rest

 

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